How long do you wait for LS Supreme to cure before it can be sanded?

Until it's hard enough that it can sanded without simply "rolling" under the sandpaper. This will depend on the temperature where the epoxy is curing. Generally at room temperature you should be able to sand in about a day. You'll know as soon as you start - the epoxy will either sand to a powder residue, or sand to small balls/rolls of epoxy. If the latter, give it more time.

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Thank you. I finally got a nice coverage over the waterslide decal but the whole epoxy area is about 8-9" long and it has a couple small humps. Am I correct to sand it even and then a final coat? Or can I put a final coat on and make it even?

Thanks again, Rick

It is difficult to level a finish by applying more and more applications. Sanding level and then applying a very thin application is usually preferable, but make very sure that you cannot live with what you have. It is always possible to have an even worse result on the second go around. If you do it, only apply enough epoxy to wet the surface of the new level surface.

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One last question. Is there a recommended grit to sand with? I think I am going to LS Supreme a broken piece and practice sanding to see if it is what I want.

Thanks Rick

I would start with 400 grit. If you can't level with that, then go down to 320 - and then back up to finish with 1200

Good luck

320 to 400. Not much need to go beyond 400 before refinishing. One thing to keep in mind, "P" and "CAMI" sandpaper grades are not the same. A P600 paper is a CAMI400, or more commonly known simply as 400.

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Thank you for all your info. I ended up just sanding the rod I was working on with 600 grit and then 1000grit. I am happy so far with how it came out. I am getting ready to add the final LS Supreme coat. I just registered in the picture forum and if it comes out ok I will post a pic over there.

I take astro photos with my telescope and ccd camera and made a decal of 'Thors Helmet' I did a month or so ago. So if it works out I will have 'Thors' rod done soon.

Rick

Rick Provencher Wrote:
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> Thank you. I finally got a nice coverage over the
> waterslide decal but the whole epoxy area is about
> 8-9" long and it has a couple small humps. Am I
> correct to sand it even and then a final coat? Or
> can I put a final coat on and make it even?
>
> Thanks again, Rick

Rick,

When reapplying epoxy over the decal area follow Tom's recommendation for applying epoxy. Apply epoxy and rotate the rod 180 degrees about every 3 - 5 minute carefully removing any drips from the bottom of the rod. After about an hour of rotating the rod you should be able to put the rod on a rod dryer and end up with a "glass smooth" finish. I used to fight this very same problem then finally I re-read Tom's article and gave it a try. It worked like magic!

Don Campbell
don@sensorfishingrods.com

I would mention that in the article I do not advocate allowing the finish to droop or sag and then removing finish - I recommend turning the rod often enough that those droops and sags do not happen to begin with. If they do, you can and should remove them, of course.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

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