Well I have a question about flex coat, I couldn't find in the search.. I have a rod that someone wants me to
put more flex coat on the guides, the rod was wrapped about 6 months ago and the flex coat is a little thin an the guides.
My question can I put more flex coat on them.....
Thanks
Glen

I Was Born Without Gills, Therefore I Fish!
Love The Wife! Live Long! Fish Till You Die!

yes you can You need to scuff the present coat a bit with a scotch brite pad and wipe them down with DA and then apply finish and you should have no problems .

The best day to be alive is always tomorrow !!
Think out side the box when all else fails !!!
Wi.

I would suggest that you do NOT wipe the epoxy down with DNA..

Over the years, I have tried that and nearly every time that I get DNA into the equation - I end up with issues.

Rather, just take blue low tack masking tape and tack off the results of the scuffing if you wish.

Actually, when I do it, I just spray the rod down with windex and wipe off with a paper towel. Then, to be sure that it is 100% dry - let it dry for at least 4 hours and go ahead and apply another coat of epoxy.

Yes, it is recommended to do a light scuffing, the majority of the time, I never do this when I add another coat of finish.

But, the choice is yours.

Be safe

Keep it simple with minimum risk. Just scuff it, clean it with dry cloth or air flow, no fluids of any kind, and refinish it.

Glenn

The most important thing is to make sure to remove any dirt, wax or oils from the areas to be refinished.

I suggest the following;

1) Clean the area with Alcohol to remove any accumulated wax or oils

2) Clean the area with mild soap and water to remove traces of alcohol and let dry

3) Scuff the area lightly, scuffing after cleaning prevents rubbing contaminants into the area to be refinished

4) Dry wipe the area with clean lint free cloth to remove loose particles or lint

5) Apply finish as soon as possible


Good Luck
John

90% of my money is spent on fishing the other 10% I just waste.

There is no reason to think that DA would leave any residue and using windex or mild soap will both leave a residue as they do not evaporate.
if you use DA and have an issue it is because you have or had to much oil on your hands and used both sides of the wipe you used to clean up from the scuffing .
A tack cloth could leave trace filaments behind or some of the flakes from scuffing the surface.
there isn't a necessity to make it a day long process prepping to apply a second coat of finish. no need to over kill /think the process.

The best day to be alive is always tomorrow !!
Think out side the box when all else fails !!!
Wi.

X-2 on Michael Danek

Do NOT use DNA. Light scuffing will hardly leave any trace of dust and if so just wipe it clean. I have had customers ask me to re-coat some guides that have cracked on older rods just for ascetic value and with NO scuffing have come out perfect and held up well.

Tom



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/25/2017 07:28PM by Tom Wewerka.

Matthew,
I read and understand your post.

However, I have had experience where cleaning with DNA and letting the rod dry for several hours, left me with a problem with the finish.

But, to the contrary, if I have cleaned with windex, I have never had an issue with the finish.

Bad Karma - maybe.

Just relating my own experiences.

Well thanks for the info. Now I have a problem I have built a couple of rods about 3 moths ago and the flex coat has cracked and some guides has came loose.
I've never had this problem from other rods I have built, since flex coat has made their finish thicker I am having this problems with it, any body else having this problem.

I Was Born Without Gills, Therefore I Fish!
Love The Wife! Live Long! Fish Till You Die!

What type of rod ??
did you use Color preserver ?? more than 1 coat ?? and what type of color preserver if used
sounds like to much hardener your mix was not 50/50 and you didn't get some in the guide tunnels

The best day to be alive is always tomorrow !!
Think out side the box when all else fails !!!
Wi.

Yes I did use color preserver, and I'm not new at this been building rod over 20 years, like I said this is the first time this ever happen to me
since flex coat change their formula, guess I will switch to some thing else that is thinner and not so thick.

I Was Born Without Gills, Therefore I Fish!
Love The Wife! Live Long! Fish Till You Die!

Glen

Our High Build finish formula has been the same for 40 years. Since then we have introduced our Lite finish and Ultra V finish. If you are looking for a thinner finish, try our Lite formula. It has a thinner viscosity. We don't use color preserver on the wrap that holds the guide down because if blocks the super strong Flex Coat from soaking through the threads to the blank and making the best strong bond. This is a controversial stance, but we stand by it.

It is also possible that you were off on your measuring and/or mixing to get the finish to crack. What type of rod is it?

When recoating after a time, make sure the rod is clean. We use an orange cleaner called Zep that can be bought at Home Depot or the like. This orange based cleaner will get the rod squeaky clean without the harshness of the solvents. No need to scuff the finish, the clean surface is good enough.

If you would like, give us a call and we will get to the bottom of this.

512-858-7742

Flex Coat Company
Professional Rod Building Supplies
www.flexcoat.com

The Ultra V finish is the one I'm having problems with.
I have always used the High build and never had problems with it.
I guess I will go back to the high build. And thanks for all the info.

I Was Born Without Gills, Therefore I Fish!
Love The Wife! Live Long! Fish Till You Die!

Of all the people that have said to scuff, I wonder if any of you have ever not scuffed & had a delam issue? I'm not against scuffing, but I'm not totally convinced it's necessary.

Besides...the Flex Coat guy says clean & no need to scuff.

I have added a coat of finish to many different rods over the years without any scuffing and have never had any issues with the finish on any of those rods.

Good luck

Jay Lancaster Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Of all the people that have said to scuff, I
> wonder if any of you have ever not scuffed & had a
> delam issue? I'm not against scuffing, but I'm
> not totally convinced it's necessary.
>
> Besides...the Flex Coat guy says clean & no need
> to scuff.


Any time you apply a coating over an existing surface you want to have a surface that is in "water break free" condition. This is the optimum surface upon which to apply your coating Failure to obtain and provide such a surface is not a guarantee of delamination, but having one is a guarantee of not having delamination. If a new application completely encapsulates the old one, then there is less likelihood that a delimitation will occur. But in either case it is important that the surface is clean. Harsh chemical solvents are generally not necessary and can cause their own problems. You can use a product such as John mentioned or even a simple wash with soap and water. But the surface should certainly be clean if you expect the new finish to in any way adhere to the old one.

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