Comparing a American Tackle rod wrapper with upgrade chuck to Flex Coat OEM 200. Any suggestions to a newbie in the business. Also comparing Flex Coat Epoxies to other brands.

ATC is not as expensive, doubles as a rod dryer, but production through put will suffer unless you buy a separate dryer. FC's is clearly a top of the line machine. I've no idea if it doubles as a dryer. Frankly, I'd recommend neither unless you are certain you will be in the business big time for an extended period, else think about starting with a hand wrapper.

As for epoxy finish, it's a personal thing where open time, viscosity, UV protection, cure / refinish time and a bunch of other properties for the brand you ultimately favor will not work as well for the next builder. Initially buy smaller quantities of several and see what works best for you.

I prefer using the "Taig" chuck and headstock to support the end of the rod.

This is essentially the same unit used by Renzetti lathes. The Taig head stock is of machinist quality and locks up solidly.

Be safe

Joe

We manufacture our equipment right here in the USA out of the best materials and motors available. In fact, I manufacture the Flex Coat FM200 myself here in Driftwood, Tx. Cut the wood, wire the motor, and assemble every screw. It is, as some would say, "clearly a top of the line machine."

It is the same motor that most high end rod manufacturers here in the USA use to apply our finish.

I do understand the point that it is an investment, and will require a commitment to the craft, but I assure you that you will not be disappointed with this machine.

Here is a link to a short video about using this FM200:

[flexcoat.com]

Call us if you would like to know more 512-858-7742

Sales pitch over....

Flex Coat Company
Professional Rod Building Supplies
www.flexcoat.com

You can cobble a rod dryer from a couple V blocks, one with a cheap motor from @#$%& and an altered tuna can for a butt holder.

Regarding a wrapper, I have never had a motorized wrapper. I wrapped for many years with a home made one, worked OK, but I finally upgraded to the Am Tack unit without a motor. Just the wrapper, no motor. I find if far superior to the hand wrapper I cobbled, and it makes many functions so much easier and precise. I don't miss the motor. I see no sense in trying to combine a motorized wrapper with a cork-turning lathe. The lathe job is dirty, better to keep it by itself. The wrapping station should be kept clean, no dust. The lathe job for polyurethane foam and cork can easily be done with drill press setups, but that won't work for wood. For that you need a real lathe.

Flex Coat epoxies are fine quality epoxies, as are many other brands. I use Flex Coat Lite for my wraps and like it because it has a reasonable working time, but doesn't take a day and a half to feel dry like some others do.

For structural work I use Rod Bond paste. I think it's a 15 minute version, not the long cure. It has a working time that is more than sufficient, and doesn't run like liquid types. I have never had an epoxy of any brand that did not work well if mixed properly.

The TAIG head stock, chuck, etc. Roger mentioned is what comes on the Custom Power Wrapper sold by Angler's Workshop.

Gentlemen, I have been reading many different topics on this site for a bit as I quest for knowledge. What exist on this site is a genuine cooperative support from many members. When there are differnet opinions there are no ugly post. I thank you all for your replies. Every post was helpful and answered other questions I had. More newbie questions to follow....thx...joe

Michael Danek

Amen, brother. Good post.

Flex Coat Company
Professional Rod Building Supplies
www.flexcoat.com

Joe,
Just an example of the current wrapper that I use - which was made over the course of many years of building and rebuilding until I obtained the current wrapper that I use today:

The 10 foot base for my wrapper made of a single piece of 2x4 aluminum channel, complete with brakes and rollers. I prefer to wrap in one spot and move the rod back and forth past my work station as I wrap. I lift the brake, move the wrapper, set the brake and wrap the guide. Repeat for the next position on the rod:

[www.rodbuilding.org]

The thread stand with its tension device and an example of one of the many rod holders that I use to support the rod while wrapping.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

The thread stand that I use in conjunction with my original thread stand to use with very large thread spools.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

An example of the power head, dc motor and 1/2 inch industrial keyless chuck that I use to hold the end of the rod. With out the larger chuck, I will use the 1/2 inch chuck, if building without a butt cap, I will insert a tapered solid stock into the end of the blank and insert the tapered solid stock into the end of the blank for support and grip while turning. but if building with a finished butt end of the rod, I will insert a 3/4x16 -- 1/2 inch threaded mandrel. I will screw on a 3 inch taig chuck to the mandrel to grasp the end of the finished rod grip.
[www.rodbuilding.org]

This is one of my earlier power head stocks using a dc motor driving a taig head stock shafting with a taig chuck mounted on the end of the head stock shaft:
[www.rodbuilding.org]


[www.rodbuilding.org]

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The dc motor is a 24 volt gear drive motor being powered by a foot pedal 0-24 volt DC power supply. this combination gives excellent speed and torque control of the power head in either direction.
Good luck

I have a Pac Bay wrapper that is very similar to the AMT one. I added the Alps Up Grade chuck to it and really like how it performs now. I do not turn cork on my rod wrapper because of the dust and debris it make instead I use a small lathe for grips, The alps chuck though would have no problem turning grips.