I fish the surf in Florida, I am careful to avoid "high sticking," and unlike fishing lakes and rivers I never know when I might hook into a #50 or #100 fish. I hate breaking rods almost as much as I hate losing big fish. For less than 50 cents I can determine the real breaking strength of a particular line, but it will cost me $300 to determine the breaking point of a $300 surf rod HELD AT A 45 DEGREE (OR LESS) ANGLE. I would like to fish with the lightest but strongest line, rod, and reel I can use to land the biggest fish I can hook. I think this is a legitimate "end goal" for an angler. If you build rods for experienced anglers you might better satisfy them if you could offer them such rods and PROVE it. BTW: I suspect the "liability problem" of supplying a blank's breaking strength at 45 degrees or less is pure fantasy.

There is also the issue of force generate by sudden impact - even a rod that can withstand a deadlift amount of 20lbs could be broken by an angler overzealously setting the hook on a 4lb largemouth, which could easily result in a force greater than 20lbs. At which point many anglers will complain that the MFGs listed breaking strength of 20lbs entitles him to a free replacement.

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I'd recommend you start calling blank/rod manufacturers, Phil.

Best of luck to you, friend.

Jay
Harkers Island, NC

Hopefully some savvy blank maker will provide information about the physical abilities and limitations of their blanks instead of gushing about "soulful action" and "big hog tough" and other such vapid marketing hogwash - and let serious rod builders get on with business.

Phil, we are not ignorant! We only want information that has a practical use !!

I confess I am ignorant: Ignorant of how strong my fishing rods are. For some reason fellow anglers don't want me or other curious rod builders to know how strong our rod blanks are, or whether they are all about the same.

Phil, it is not that we do not want you to know, it is mostly that we do not have the same interest level. As Tom and others have pointed out, fighting a fish is not like static testing for strength. There are so many variables that can cause a rod to break that a single number will not cover all instances.

Example: "This rod is rated to break at 40lbs at 45 degrees". Is this what you are looking for? Hoe do you measure your at that point when fighting a fish? What if you take it to 60 degrees?

By the way, I am "a serious rod builder" and have little interest in breaking point figures that have no practical application!

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Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/08/2017 07:26AM by Jay Lancaster.

Suffice to say that while such information may indeed by helpful, the manufacturers aren't likely to include it in their catalog specs.

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Phil, this is a subject I have interest in as well. I can tell you some will give you the information you seek. For example I had a blank rated (IIRC) 10-25#. It's a composite blank and it felt just right for 15# or IFGA 8kg class. It was for kingfish. When I inquired I was shown pictures of the butt of the blank secured in a metal jig, line tied to the tip, and line brought back over so the tip was almost touching the butt of the rod in a complete 180 degree bend. I was told the blank would fail around 29 pounds. Well beyond what I would dream of fishing it at and of course no fisherman would ever subject a rod to that bend at maximum load.

All I can tell you is what I do.I start with that "fuse" you mentioned. That is the most pressure one can put of the fish in a prolonged battle. It is tested with a scale or known weight and I practice lifting it with a the finished rod so I know just how it feels. Ten pounds is easy to lift, 20 takes a bit of effort, by 30 you need a belt and are getting nervous about what would happen if the line breaks.

So I basically pick blanks and test them to be sure the "fuse/line/knots" is the weak link. My drag is typically set at 25% of that but I'll go to 33% on a lever drag reel. When needed I'll apply extra drag with my fingers knowing how the limit feels in my hands and the rod's bend.

Of course this doesn't always give me the lighest possible blank. Frankly I care more about landing the fish than saving an ounce on the build. Heck total blank weight difference between the lighest suitable offering and a bullet proof one might be no more than titanium guides and split grip vs. normal parts.

BTW, the person that shared info on breaking strength did confide that if bass blanks had the deadlift their top line rating folks wouldn't buy them as they would be deemed to heavy. Compare blanks between those that are fresh water and inshore/saltwater rated. You will see the difference.

It has been my experience that any of the quality saltwater rated blanks will easily fish in the middle of their weight range. Certainly you must feel a difference between a hot shot rod and a surf blank of the same rating?

I'll also offer this for food for thought. Grab a shorter surf rod, say 9 foot. Put of a reel with 20# test. Head on down to the beach and start casting sinkers. Bet you can break 20# test with a 2-3 ounce sinker. Now would you take that same rod, tie the line off to an imovable object, back up a couple of feet, grab the spool of the reel, do your best Bill Dance hookset and break the line? Probably wouldn't want to treat your rod like that. But in the end aren't we just about doing that everytime we cast?

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

Russ: I appreciate and agree with your insights. I suspect heavier blanks sacrifice additional weight for strength, while lighter blanks sacrifice strength for speed, especially fly rod blanks. Sacrifices must be made, and anglers must decide the priorities and trade-offs necessary to get the blank they want for the fishing they intend to do. Making an informed decision depends upon having reliable, objective information. For example, "#12 - #20 lb. test" monofilament equates to #60-#100 test gel spun braid in diameter and reel capacity, and rod, reel, and line are or should be an integrated system.