i need a tutorial on thinning epoxy. what product is best to use. what ratio would you use to mix with finishing epoxy ? ( 1/1/1??)
i primarily use threadmaster , but i can see where there could be an advantage in using thinner, multiple coats . is it better to use a non thinned final coat ?
…to thin, or not to thin, that is the question….

Epoxy formulators advise not to thin any epoxy. If you want thinner coats, use a stiffer brush; put on less, etc.

Flex Coat is one supplier that does advise on thinning epoxy wrap finish. Consult their website for how they do it.

..................

Tom Kirkman Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Epoxy formulators advise not to thin any epoxy. If
> you want thinner coats, use a stiffer brush; put
> on less, etc.
>
> Flex Coat is one supplier that does advise on
> thinning epoxy wrap finish. Consult their website
> for how they do it.
>
> ..................

I my self wouldn't do it as tom stated just apply less

If you want it to wet out the thread more then you can use the light formula and apply thin multiple coats
messing with epoxy is where the problems start with applying it to a rod fish eye, footballing, soft doesn't fully cure, streaking in the wrap where it soaks in more in one part and not the other, and if you use CP the solvent/ thinner you use could mess with that as I said cause light and dark spots in the wrap.
the light build works great on untreated wraps no cp just the threads it soaks in well you just have to remember that your wraps shouldn't be over tight and the tension is consistent from start to finish then end product will be perfect.

The best day to be alive is always tomorrow !!
Think out side the box when all else fails !!!
Wi.

Sam,
In a word - don't thin epoxies.

Epoxies cure by a chemical process.

When solvents or thinners are added to the epoxies, many times the uncured solvents don't mix with the epoxies and don't take part in the chemical cure. As a result, the uncured solvent becomes entrapped in the cured epoxy - leaving a soft rubbery finish.

Then, if a person thinks that they are going to fix the issue by adding another coat of epoxy on top of the first coat, you are left with a hard shell on top of a soft foundation.

------------
As the good book or equivalent says - Don't build your house on sand.

In other words - a bad foundation does a bad finish make.

If you want the epoxy a bit thinner, apply the finish to the blank and use just a touch of gentle heat to the epoxy which will thin the epoxy and let if flow out very nicely. But, I said - gentle and slight heat. Over heat the epoxy and boil the epoxy and you have ruined the finish.

Good luck

I mix Threadmaster with Pro Kote, and before K I mixed it with Aftcote. I've been doing this since before TM was on the market and Andy Dear had me test it. THousands of rods have been finished this way with no problem at all, everyone that does the BIlly Mix agrees that it addresses the issues people have with all these finishes.

If I'm not mistaken, St Croix thins or used to thin Flex Coat with Acetone, thousands of rods per day. THey don't have the problems mentioned in prior post, but they also kno what they are doing and aren't going to sscrew up teh ratios. I don't recommend using a solvent, but there are a ton of rods out there that have thinned finish which have none of the issues mentioned



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/06/2017 10:25AM by Billy Vivona.

Have you tried the threadmaster lite? It's pretty easy to put it on super thin.

Sam

As Tom K advised, only one manufacturer recommends thinning, and you've got to suspect the rest have valid reasons instructing users not to thin or do not include thinning instructions with their products. Frankly, the only reason epoxy finish ought to be thinned is when producing invisible wraps, and that can be iffy with epoxy until you hit on a combination of solvent (DNA, acetone) and brand of epoxy that will play pretty and cure, else you have one giant mess.

I have thinned Threadmaster Lite many times with DNA when using white thread and going for a "threadless" look. It's a neat trick on the fluorescent tip of an ice rod. After one very light coat has cured, I recoat with a normal mix. I'm not sure what devastating effects it could cause, but I'm guessing that the manufacturers don't recommend it because they are concerned about you having a bad experience with their product. I'll do what I want on my rods.

_________________________________________
"Angling is extremely time consuming.
That's sort of the whole point." - Thomas McGuane

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Re: clear thread???
Posted by: Jim Gamble (---.tampabay.res.rr.com)
Date: August 05, 2011 05:06PM
Gossamer or Naples white silk. Two-part epoxy, first coat thinned, second coat uncut. Do test wraps to learn the process.
[www.rodbuilding.org]

Posted by: Tom Kirkman (Moderator)
Date: June 29, 2010 07:44PM
Right. Transparent wraps are made with white silk and thinned finish (but this can and somewhat does change the properties of the finish). Threadless wraps are made without any thread. They're guide feet encapsulated in urethane.

_________________________________________
"Angling is extremely time consuming.
That's sort of the whole point." - Thomas McGuane

Roger,

Thanks for the links and your explanation. You're always right on target....'never pass up reading your replies. Always lots of good information!

Don Campbell
don@sensorfishingrods.com

Lots of conflicting opinions here. A lot of well recognized builders thin epoxy.

"Things move along so rapidly nowadays that people saying: “It can’t be done,” are always being interrupted by somebody doing it." —Puck 1903

_________________________________________
"Angling is extremely time consuming.
That's sort of the whole point." - Thomas McGuane

Conflicting info for a variety of reasons. Giving advice on teh internet can make you look bad, if you say it can be thinned, you don't know who is reading the post, they might put 1 drop of epoxy and 10 drops of MEK. In that case, CYA, and why most manu's don't recommend it.

Then you have science lab info that has no bearing on teh reality of what actually happens on fishing rods. Also regurgitated info with no first hand experience or knowledge of actually thinning finish or knowing people that do.

Many of the large scale manufacturers that we sell to thin the first coat of Flex Coat. They thin it mainly for speed of application, as it soaks into the thread easily with one pass.

As stated, if you desire to thin Flex Coat, we recommend acetone at a 1:15 ratio. That is, you should mix your finish normally at a 1:1 ratio and when fully mixed, add the acetone. So if you have a 15 cc mix, then add 1 cc of acetone and mix it again until crystal clear. This will not only thin the finish, it will dramatically extend the pot life, or working time, as well as the curing time, so plan on that.

We do not recommend thinning additional coats of Flex Coat, just the first.

Just our 2 cents...

Flex Coat Company
Professional Rod Building Supplies
www.flexcoat.com

just what i was looking for . a healthy discussion of do's and dont's and varying opinions. great info !!

all the raspberries aside on the subject To all those that do thin their finish and have the SKILL SET to do it successfully.
I am sure that they took the time to figure out the amounts of solvent to use.
But to post in a form and say just do it BECAUSE I do it all the time, isn't a good piece of advice because the person or persons reading that snippet of information may not have the SKILL SET of those that have been building for a long time and figured how to skin that cat without getting clawed but if the person hasn't done their do diligence like it has been stated by some long time builders it can be a disaster that is why so many times it has been stated to do a test on a piece of scrap till you achieve the results you desire.
can it be done YES will it work for everyone NO do the Manufacturers recommend it not really and if they do they recommend it as a first coat only reference to flex coat .

The best day to be alive is always tomorrow !!
Think out side the box when all else fails !!!
Wi.

Great reads from BillyV & John Cates.

Hey, Billy...do you mind explaining why you like mixing TM & PK (or AC)?

I get the average of both finsihes. Longer pot life than TM, shorter than PK AFt, Not as hard as TM, not as soft as the others.

Thanks Billy. Take care, man.