Hi all Have been building for many years I have had the opportunity to use all the different color preservers out there if you think I am kidding I am not do you remember when the only color preservers around were plain clear lacquer or Elmers white glue thinned with water . And the finish was spar marine varnish ???
With that said
This is what I have done or used over my time building rods and finishing them it started with using the same epoxy that you would use for gluing up handles and seats you would mix it up and thin it down with lacquer thinner to the consistency of varnish and apply in light coats really time consuming moving forward late in the 60's came the epoxy rod finish there was only one type high build and had to be turned in come the ideas for turning the first one I had was made with a clock motor and did 1 rpm it did a good job so as you didn't apply way to much and expect that it self level.
Forward to present most are still a chemical compound that needs some type of harsh chemical to thin or clean up.
Then there the water based finishes they work well if you have the patients to use them as they don't work like the epoxies and require several thin coats to build the glass like look that you want ,and sometimes you need to thin them all so. they are environment friendly and clean up with water IE water based urethane.
On to epoxies there are several for types that all have different thixotropic properties you have thin build, medium build, and high build, all have their place and depend upon the rod being built the thin build is great for those wanting to save weight IE. fly rods or to coat under wraps on a salt water rods as it does soak in as it sets. Over application will result in the unwanted foot ball effect or an uneven coat so again you have to apply thin coat/coats on a salt water under wrap I have found 1-2 thin coats is sufficient for this part and let dry and then wrap on the guides this ensures a seal of all the threads to the blank and you can then apply either the same thin build in several coats or use a medium or high build for the finish of the guide wraps NOTE that I have found to use the same brand and don't mix one brand with another as they all have their product specific polymer make up that give them their pot life and self leveling abilities.
Turning the rod is the most important part as some finishes can be turned at a slow speed and others require a faster speed thin finishes I have used need a bit faster speed to maintain the self leveling properties of the product as the thin products by nature run to drip faster and if to slow in the cure process come the footballing of finish.
High build can be turned at a slower rate as it is not as free flowing as a thin finish. For finishing I use different speeds for them from 6 rpm to as much as 10 rpm for application I use about 20 rpm and a spatula for application as it doesn't add bubbles to the coat like brushes can often do.
Like it has been said several times you want to float the finish on while the rod is turning not brush it, for this you have have to have a steady rest for you have an hold the application tool your using just close enough that it pulls the finish from the tool be it a spatula or brush the key is NOT to use to much at one time as you will have the drip problem just a nice even coat
If you can't coat all the wraps don't panic again I say hurry up and slow down you can mix up another batch and continue to finish the rest as the pot life on most finish is 40- 60 min working time for application. And pouring it on to a piece of foil gives you all that time so applying it fast isn't necessary to get it on the wraps resulting in problems fish eye,footballing empty tunnels along the guide feet and bubbles surfacing as it soaks in to the thread.
The most important thing to remember is that you are doing this for your pleasure and it isn't a contest to see how fast you can get it done but how well you do it, enjoy the end product of your work and the enjoyment you will get from a job well done when fighting that fish.
If your a business the skill set is well developed and can build quickly as versed the personal builder speed building should be a non issue.

The best day to be alive is always tomorrow !!
Think out side the box when all else fails !!!
Wi.

Matthew,
Good post.
After talking to a lot of different manufacturers I make a point to never thin a rod finish with any sort of solvent or diluent. The problem with adding a solvent - especially too much - is that the finish cures by a chemical cure. A solvent may become entrapped in the finish, not cure and the result is a soft or rubbery finish.

But there are plenty of brands of finish to help a person with this issue if one is having problems with a "thick" finish.

But, no question, enjoy the process. Enjoy the labor to create the rod. That is what this is all about.

Then, after you build your first thousand rods, you will be building more quickly, if you choose to build more quickly.

Be safe

Matthew, I do remember those early days. You forgot to mention the liquid rod cement. The closest relative today is Pliobond. That stuff took three days to cure. The lacquer used for color preserver was a beast. Until I discovered that filling the tunnels along the feet of the guides, I lived in Bubble @#$%&. One other thing that was different in that time was the absence of computers sitting on your deskwheret you could find a forum like this to get help. I do wish someone would bring out Gudebrod's 811 color preserver which I believe was the best Color Preserver ever produced. I would think that whoever used to make it would have a good market.

Sincerely,

Mike Blomme

I dont know much about Gudebrod but I did see the GudeBrod thread available on @#$%& when i was searching for rod building components. Maybe some of those sellers have the color preserver as well? How long ago did Gudebrod stop making products?

Built my first rod in 1969. Bought the blank and components from FinnySports, which is no longer around. I honestly do not remember the brand of glue, color preserver, or finished I used, but do remember gluing cork rings to the blank and sanding them down by hand. I wrapped the rod by hand running the thread through a couple of books and using a couple of chairs as my rod supports. These same chairs were used as support when I turned the rod by hand after applying finish. I was very proud of this rod, I thought it came out great. My commanding officer at the time also liked it so I sold it to him at cost and built myself another one. At the time there was no internet and we had to learn by trial and error and there were a lot of errors. Over the years rodbuilding has really evolved; the blanks, components, and supplies are constantly getting better and better. The internet has brought about a wealth of information, as well as disinformation. This site in my opinion is one of the best for giving out excellent advise concerning all aspects of rod building. Everyone here is willing to freely share their hard gained expertise in a very professional and civil manner. This is the reason I joined this forum a few years back, and I have learned a lot by doing so.
Norm

Matthew,
I'm pretty slow so you don't have to worry about me getting in a rush.

Michael said You forgot to mention the liquid rod cement. The closest relative today is Pliobond. That stuff took three days to cure.

yea that kind got lost in my post but I do remember it as it was in a small bottle that has a red,white black out line label with a black cap looked like snot in a bottle as it had a bit of a green cast in direct sunlight lol and kind of handled like it aah the old days and some methods gone for the good and some not so good !

I still enjoy when I can take my time on a build as the result is always at it's best .
Just recently did a rod for the local P.B.S. station @#$%& fund raiser here The winner came a calling with an order for a Musky/Muskie rod done in the same colors so I took his order and cost of parts and have till end of May to complete it
using his choice not mine of blanks he chose a Phenixx black diamond PHD869XH-B 8'6" 1 25-60 lb. have done several rods for these fish using saltwater blanks and never had a fail or a dissatisfied customer.

The best day to be alive is always tomorrow !!
Think out side the box when all else fails !!!
Wi.

I have to step in her as to Rogers post
I have thinned finish FOR YEARS -- and NEVER HAD A PROBLEM - it dried at the same time as not thinned - as hard as ever ------ and never had ONE PROBLEM I do use Flex Coat UV finish high build - with lacquer thinner - MID TEMP -- And a tad of water with there flex coat CP and about three coats of it AT 15 min apart I never let completely dry but three coats wet Then dry over night --- All are on a turner for even coats --- Mix all very well !!

Bill - willierods.com