So I received an email for Batson's new ultimate reamer, Dang that's one pricey reamer!! Or self defence weapon as I'm sure it would work great for that. Here's their link, Prices are {per reamer} not the set. Not sure where their mind-set was at with this and it's pricing, But I won't be owning one. I love their products. But this is over the top for me. [www.build2fish.com]

You watch the videos? That's sweet. Custom sizing for a high volume shop would be just the ticket.

St. Croix and other manufacturers have just such reamers to be able to ream, and size a grip for a particular blank and reel seat in one pass of the tool.

Be safe

Never going to have to replace the sanding belt on a standard reamer is sure worth something and I guess if you had it for many many years it would pay for itself.

I don't wrap sanding belt, I use Coarse Silicon Carbide grit with {JB weld} on my tapered mandrels. The key to getting it stick so it stays put, Is Washing the grit with Dawn detergent to remove the dust and any oil in a screen colinder. Let it dry in the oven, Coat your mandrels with JB and roll them in your grit. I have some that have lasted more than a year with regular use. The key for me is I chuck them up in my lathe and Let the mandrel do the work. But I'm not doing high production. I works for me and is cheap, I grabbed about 10 pounds of Silicon Carbide from work before I retired. Jaa

It's target market is probably for somebody else. No offense meant. But a high production facility would probably find it invaluable and would write it off as a production expense. Batson makes other reamers probably more in line for the general market.

eric
fresno, ca.

Hi All,
I just wanted to clarify that the Ultimate Reamer is not a Batson in-house brand like Rainshadow or Forecast. It's a separate brand with it's own parent company, development, marketing, etc. We're currently offering only the sizes in the .007" taper per inch but may offer others in the future.
In regards to pricing, these are very expensive to produce and we pay a lot for them. I assure you we aren't gouging anyone. In fact, our margins are quite skinny on these. My honest assessment of the product is that they're amazing and perform as advertised (otherwise we wouldn't sell them.) I believe that they become worth the money when a builder is doing significant volume in particular rod blank size range. I advise buying the one or two sizes that hit your volume sweet spot in order to make the product earn its keep.
All that being said, the other target customer is that builder that just wants to have the baddest tool out there. And at this point in time, the Ultimate Reamer is it. All one needs to do is watch the video.... [www.facebook.com]

-The Batson TEAM
BatsonEnterprises.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/27/2017 02:07PM by Geoff Staples.

I guess it depends on what your time is worth
here we have a reamer that takes longer to tighten in the drill then it does to ream the cork, and yet the whole process include tightening all four sizes into the the drill takes less then 2 minutes 12 seconds

that's a lot of time saved! would not take long for it to pay for itself

Steve,
When doing production rod builds, I use a different drill for each drill bit or reamer so I don't have to waste time changing bits or reamers.

I have done this for years when doing building construction projects. i.e. a drill for the pilot drill bit. A drill for the body drill bit, A drill or impact drill to actually set the screw or lag bolt. But any time when working with hard woods, it is essentially to pre drill to avoid material splitting.

Again, a separate drill for each action, saves a huge amount of time in a big project with different drilling needs on the job.

For most of these jobs - especially in the shop, I use inexpensive corded drills that never run out of power.

Cordless equipment have their places, but when working in the shop it still makes a lot of sense to use corded equipment.

Be safe

Steve,
When doing production rod builds, I use a different drill for each drill bit or reamer so I don't have to waste time changing bits or reamers.

I have done this for years when doing building construction projects. i.e. a drill for the pilot drill bit. A drill for the body drill bit, A drill or impact drill to actually set the screw or lag bolt. But any time when working with hard woods, it is essentially to pre drill to avoid material splitting.

Again, a separate drill for each action, saves a huge amount of time in a big project with different drilling needs on the job.

For most of these jobs - especially in the shop, I use inexpensive corded drills that never run out of power.

Cordless equipment have their places, but when working in the shop it still makes a lot of sense to use corded equipment.

Be safe

Roger that's part of the point I was making. If you elimination chucking time in the drill. Probably looking at less then a minute a handle.
Lots of labor savings, especially if doing introduction work.

Personally I run two drill presses, and (when needed) have another reamer set up in a lath I prefer to keep things stationary and two hands free to work with.

I got three of them at the Expo this year. I don't make a lot of rods a year, probably less than 70. My other reamers were constantly having contact problems with the epoxy loosing grip due to the heat buildup and I found myself either replacing or repairing them. Having to stop a project in the middle so I could repair the reamer was just too frustrating. So, I took the jump and got the ultimate reamers. They work great and I have no regrets getting them. One word of warning, don't let your hand slip off the handle material when the reamer is spinning, even at a low RPM. These things are unforgiving unlike the traditional reamers.