Has anyone used wipe-on polyurethane over top of handwriting on rod. I have seen a video on YouTube where a rod builder used polyurethane over a hand written signature. I am trying to get the look of a raised lettering from the enamel ink I used for signature. The standard finish will completely cover the ink and has not give the look I would like to have in the previous builds. I am wondering if the poly will be durable and stick to the rod without yellowing down the road. Give me your thoughts.

How about color preserver over the ink - before finish?

The finish just fills in and covers the handwriting to the point where I can't feel the raised lettering. I don't understand what the color preserver would do for this issue.

you would have to use perma gloss or lumi seal as they aren't a high build finish both available from MudHole

The best day to be alive is always tomorrow !!
Think out side the box when all else fails !!!
Wi.

David,

I have not done what you want to do, but I did just want to remind you that perma gloss is very hot, in a sense that it can dissolve many types of ink or paint it is put on. Make sure you allow your ink to dry thoroughly before trying to coat it. And I would do several test runs, on scraps, first.

Let us know what you do!

Take care,

Chris

Cason CP is also a hot CP, if you coat with CP use a water based, the CP is supposed to help prevent hot thread coatings from dissolving the inks.

Ray Zarychta
Glastonbury, CT

seriously if it were my rod I would use the lumi seal as it is a water based urethane and cleans up with water and will not yellow and will be as tough as the rod finish . the water based products are great if you don't like the harsh chemicals the others are made with

The best day to be alive is always tomorrow !!
Think out side the box when all else fails !!!
Wi.

I've ordered the Lumi seal this morning. Will do a couple of test runs and will keep you posted. Thanks for all the advice. Hope to upload pics when complete.

I did not know that there was a water based LumiSeal!
Norm

Just a comment:

I admire your tenacity on solving your issue. But, do NOT do this job on your rod that you are working on without completely testing your process first.

Find a scrap blank - do your lettering and any additional process including the final coat or coats of finish.

You want to be 100% sure that you have a perfect process that will give you the ideal results that you wish to have with the process.

I have lettered rods for years - i.e. my wife does the lettering, since her writing is so much better than mine.

We use acrylic ink with a pen and nib. I let it dry for at least 30 minutes and apply rod finish. The one thing that I am very careful about doing is to Not to brush the blank where there is any lettering. Rather, I just insure that the finish is thin enough so that the finish will nicely flow over the lettering - with just a slight amount of rotation. You don't want the finish to run a long ways, or it could work on the lettering. Also, heavy brushing over the lettering could move or change the lettering. But otherwise, just let the finish flow out nicely for a nice smooth finish and the result is smooth and professional.

I understand your desire to have raised lettering, but don't beat yourself up - if you find that you are having a great deal of difficulty to achieve this look.

Test and verify that you have the perfect process - before doing anything with your new rod build.

Take care

I agree completely with Roger, test on scrap to make sure it works.
Norm

I use clear scotch tape over my ink writings and then brush my Perma-Gloss polyurethane over it and the ink never runs and the tape is invisible once it is dry with not even a sign of it.

Glenn McMurrian

Thanks Glenn. I will test that also. I appreciate the advice.

Thanks Fred. Your idea worked great. I used the Chroma-Seal with two coats and then waited 24 hours to apply the Perma-Gloss and got the ideal look I was going for. The Perma-Gloss would smear the enamel ink without the color preserver protecting it. I used Testors enamel ink from a craft store with a quill pen, then the Chroma-Seal ( 2 coats an hour apart) and then the Perma-Gloss. Doesn't have the thick look that 2 part finish makes. Thanks again to all.