Anyone have some tips on preventing bubbles in the final app of epoxy. I have watched the Flexcoat (product I use for final coat) video on how to mix, I have added acetone to epoxy to help thin it for easy bubble release and even used a heat gun to thin epoxy, not a good idea!!
Any advise would be helpful, THANKS
Bent rods to ya !!

Are those pesky bubbles in the mixed epoxy before application or do you only see the bubbles after applying the epoxy to the wraps?

I try to heat the epoxy with a heat gun before applying, to thin and release bubbles, but the bubbles seem to appear as I apply the epoxy. I am using good quality sable brushes

I've not used Flex Coat for several years, but I doubt your problem is Flex Coat. Here are some technique changes you might try:

It's really easy to create bubbles when mixing epoxy. An electric epoxy mixer is worth its weight in gold - no bubbles.

Hold off with the heat gun. Instead warm the epoxy resin only in the microwave for a few seconds so the bottle is just warm to the touch.

Let the epoxy flow from brush to thread. "Painting" can introduce bubbles.

If you want to use the heat gun, just a little warm after the epoxy is applied can be helpful provided you are not blowing dust into the finish.

Mix slowly, pour out on a foil sheet, and blow on it through a piece of tubing. Use the tubing after application to pop any in the applied finish.

You'll get lots of opinions from REALLY good rod builders. Once you find a system that works for you, keep using it.

What has worked for me is warming the bottles of epoxy in warm water - before measuring and mixing, then I mix vigoously - yes there are bubbles in the mix... then I apply the epoxy fast to the rod... once the finish is on, I use a micro torch to help the epoxy flow out - keep the torch moving - never stop. I'll check back in 15-20 mins - If I happen to see bubbles, I'll do one more pass with the torch.

I have tried a heatgun, but just too much air moving and don't want to risk the dust.

Darrel,
I mix part a and part b flex coat finish. I then mix the finish with a flat ended craft stick for 120 seconds. I do all of the mixing in a plastic cup.
There may be some bubbles in the finish at this time but I don't worry about it.

I also use the finish at room temperature - I do not heat it up because heat will quicken the cure time.

I apply finish at 0-100 rpm. So, it only takes a few minutes to get sufficient finish on the entire rod to cover the butt wraps, and the guides. I do not go back over the guides or butt wraps at this time. I just want to get sufficient finish on the rod to give complete coverage.

I want to do this quickly so the finish has not started to cure.

When all of the finish is applied, I go back to the beginning, slow the rod down to about 20 rpm and using bright light and magnification - check for any bubbles or defects. If anything is noted, I just use modest heat from a heat gun to thin the finish and to let it flow out nicely releasing any bubbles that might happen to still be trapped. I will do this quite quickly as well, going from the butt to the tip of the rod.

When finished, I will go back again, and slow the rod down to about 10 rpm and give the rod an intense inspection checking for any issues. If I find a bubble or defect, I will add a dab of finish and a bit of heat to let the finish blend with the current finish.

When done again - I will slow the rod down to about 8 rpm for long term drying.

90% of the time, I use one coat of high build finish with no Acetone or anything else added to the perfect mix.

By only having to do one coat, I can complete a batch of rod builds, coat them, let them dry over night and ship them the next afternoon. I only have to go through one cycle of drying time.

I realize that this is contrary to what most other builders do with their rods and their rod finish application. But it works well for me to give me a perfect finish in the minimum amount of time.



Take care

Try blowing thru a soda straw over coated wraps to release bubbles. While not recommended by some of the experts, it works quite well. Try not to drool during process!

I mix vigorously in an aluminum mixing dish. When finished mixing I pas my butane torch quickly over the top. Pesto the bubbles are gone almost instantaneously. Works for me.
Norm

Norman,

I love pesto, but you never want to mix it in aluminum if it has lemon in it. Gives it a metallic taste.....

: )

Chris



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/21/2017 03:19AM by Chris Herrera.

heating epoxy before application speeds up the curing process. it is possible that the epoxy is setting up before the bubbles can release. if you must heat the epoxy don't over heat it. i also agree with gary's post!

rog

10-4 Rog,

This is why I do not heat the finish before application. This is why I do not heat the finish when it is in the mixing dish. (i.e. - I do not want to accelerate the curing process with heat).

Also, because, I seldom use more than one coat of finish - I do not want the finish to be anything other than rock hard when complete so also do NOT use any solvent to thin the finish at all.

Rather, I just get the finish on the rod as quickly as possible and then - if any bubbles are noted - use a touch of heat to let the bubbles move out of the finish.

Darrel

Are you using under wraps? Weaving? Heavy weight thread?

The bubbles could be coming from your wraps?

Flex Coat Company
Professional Rod Building Supplies
www.flexcoat.com

Call us and we can chat about your issue

512-858-7742

Flex Coat Company
Professional Rod Building Supplies
www.flexcoat.com

Chris, I also like pesto and I also would not make it in an aluminum dish:)

I have found that passing the butane flame very quickly (1 second or less) over the mixed epoxy will pop the bubbles almost instantaneously, like presto! I think it is due more to the CO2 produced than to the heat. I also think that using an aluminum mixing dish does help in dissipating the heat. If I use a hair dryer or heat gun to warm the epoxy the bubbles do not instantly disappear, and the pot life of the epoxy is reduced. So for me the butane torch works.
Norm

Fred Cory Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> You'll get lots of opinions from REALLY good rod
> builders. Once you find a system that works for
> you, keep using it.
>
> What has worked for me is warming the bottles of
> epoxy in warm water - before measuring and mixing,
> then I mix vigoously - yes there are bubbles in
> the mix... then I apply the epoxy fast to the
> rod... once the finish is on, I use a micro torch
> to help the epoxy flow out - keep the torch moving
> - never stop. I'll check back in 15-20 mins - If I
> happen to see bubbles, I'll do one more pass with
> the torch.
>
> I have tried a heatgun, but just too much air
> moving and don't want to risk the dust.
X2 But I use an alcohol torch.

If there are dust issues, clean the dust from the shop before doing any finish work.

Open all of the windows in the shop and use a vacuum or on blow or an electric leaf blower to blow all of the dust in the shop out the window. This includes the ceiing, walls, all of the shelves, cabinets and floors.

Good luck

Lynn Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Try blowing thru a soda straw over coated wraps to
> release bubbles.

Me too. I apply right out of the mixing cup and lightly blow on the finish with a straw and all the bubbles disappear. No need for heat, which can actually cause more bubbles if not careful. Some finishes work better than others and it can depend on temp.

John Shear
Chippewa Falls, WI

this is some thing I found try it an see what happens , after you finished mixing, if there is bubbles in the mix, drop ONE drop of DNA on the mix
an see what happens, it works for me ,

William Sidney
AK

Bill,
I read and understand your post.

However, DNA is not really a good solvent for epoxy finish. i.e. DNA really does not combine well with the epoxy finish.

Although I dislike using any sort of thinner or solvent with an epoxy finish - the correct solvent is either Acetone or Xylene.

The preferred solvent for use with Epoxy is Xylene which is actually used in the manufacture of some of the finishing products.

If you look at the product information on the side of an XYLENE container, it specifically names using XYLENE as a solvent for Epoxy materials.

Warning - Acetone, and Xylene are both highly flamable as well as highly noxious if the fumes are inhaled. So only use either of these solvents with the appropriate ventilation and personal protection.

Good luck .