I bought a blank at the rod expo, not a expensive blank by no means, and while checking the spline the rod cracked. It cracked in the location of the real seat. I thought about wrapping the rod at the crack and finishing the wrap, then finish building the rod and maybe giving it to my grandson. Any thoughts on this, I could send it back or use it to practice decorative wraps on. Do you think it would hold up it is a 7' MH bass rod.

If "at the location of the reel seat" means that the reel seat will be over the crack then go ahead and make up the rod the reel seat/arbors/glue will be strong enough to reinforce the break. If it is above where the reel seat will cover the crack BUT under where a fore grip will cover it then bind with thread and use a "solid" fore grip - that is NOT EVA. A cork fore grip/glue should also provide sufficient reinforcement. IMO if it was an inexpensive blank to begin with then the hassle of packing/shipping and waiting for a replacement isn't warranted (and the seller probably will also want to charge shipping. Check with the seller on return / shipping (one direction or two)

If you have the opportunity to exchange it, I would do so. No use keeping a defective blank if you don't need to. You could try to work with it, but its hard to really know how far the extent of the crack is, especially if it split the blank. It's not supposed to crack under a proper spine test, wonder if the rest of the rod is defective as well.

Like Ken said. If the cracked location can be covered with grip or reel seat build it. I don't see the point of returning the blank if the shipping and replacement will cost more then the blank. You can keep it and turn it into a reamer or practice decorative wraps, etc. How did it break? Did you support it against your foot when you applied pressure or was it in a vise or rod holder?

Phil,
The good news is that you discovered the defect before starting the build.

Always a good idea to give a blank a very deep flex before ever starting a build.

As others have said, put the reel seat over the crack and it will reinforce the area.

However, since it is an area that is near the butt of the rod, Take an old scrap rod and cut out a section of the blank that will fit up inside the blank for a tight fit on the inside of the blank.

You can use a caliper to figure the wall thickness and then the diameter of the blank at the crack. Cut a patch piece of blank that is at least two inches longer than the crack. Then, using another piece of blank to act as a handle insert the handle piece of blank up inside the patch blank to get it into the correct position.

But, before doing the repair, use gentle heat to soften the finish and then use a razor blade held perpendicular to the blank to scrap off all of the finish to give you really good glue adhesion to the patch blank.

Then, give the inside of the new blank a layer of adhesive using the smaller diameter piece of rod material to get it into the blank. Then, coat the patch blank with adhesive and push it firmly up inside the blank. You will know that you have it far enough if you can see a touch of adhesive squeeze out of the crack. Clean up any excess adhesive with DNA, and after the glue has set, remove the blank handle that was up on the inside of the patch blank and then go ahead and build up your rod. With that patch blank up the inside of the butt section of the blank, you will not have to worry about a failure in that area again.

Good luck

Agree that it can be fixed, and it won't be that hard. I do believe that a cork grip will work, and suggest burl since it is much stronger than regular cork. A easy way to get a little more reinforcement in the repair would be to wrap the area with structural epoxy-wetted glass cloth or carbon fiber, and size the grip to go over that.

I have a very expensive rod that I stupidly damaged at a guide, longitudinal cracks in the blank, and I fixed it with glass cloth wrap and a guide wrap right on top of that. It has caught a "bazzilion" bass since then and i cannot even see the repair without very close examination.

It was in a rod holder and I was checking the spline. It didn't have much of a bend in it but the rod would not rotate. I tried more pressure to make it rotate and it snapped. Part of rodbuilding I guess.

I expect the rod holder applied the forces in a concentrated couple of spots instead of having grips/seats to spread the loading. Or it simply could have been defective. But I think it's worth a try to fix it.

Most likely the blank had been slightly crushed in shipping, handling, etc. That where most such cracks occur. If this is an important project, I'd check the seller to see if you might get a replacement. Otherwise, you might over-sleeve the outside of the blank where you mount the seat.

.................

I had a feeling you flexed it in a rod holder or vise. It applied pressure to an isolated spot. Like Tom said it might have been damaged in transport but what you did will easily break a blank if you apply too much force. IMO it's best to brace the butt end against the arch of your foot and use one hand to hold the rod and the other to flex it. Less chance of breaking. I do put rods in a rod holder mounted at 45 degrees to check guide layout in my shop. When I do that I run line from reel through guides and tip top with a 9 Oz weight hanging from line to see it flex and if I like the guide layout. I use an old chartreuse floating fly line as the test line. If you prefer using a rod holder to do this again I suggest mounting a foam or cork grip on blank where it lays on lip of rod holder. MH

I had the rod in a spine finder. I didn't put that much bend in the rod it would not rotate. Thanks to everyone to replied. Phil