Posted by:
roger wilson
(---.hsd1.mn.comcast.net)
Ernie,
A couple of pointers.
1. If the center of the grip - away from each end is ragged, no big deal. The rough inside of the grip , just means that you get more gluing area and a better long term adhesion of the grip.
2. To take care of the issue, I use tapered files - turning backward to get a perfectly smooth inside end on each end of the grip that is the perfect fit for the fit of the grip on the blank at the point of installation.
3. When doing all of this drilling, boring, or reaming I wear a pair of knit gloves. The reasons for this. The gloves keep my hands clean, but let he hold the grip more securely, but the gloves also let me slip the grip a bit as I am reaming or drilling.
p.s. I do not use leather or similar gloves when holding the grip. The reason that I use the knit gloves is that they protect my hands from the heat of the slipping grip, but still let me stop the grip when needed. If I use leather gloves, the leather grabs the grip too well and does not let me slip the grip for turning in a controlled fashion.
I buy shop gloves by the dozen from the local big box supply store - in either the brown cotton jersey version, or the white knit version. When the gloves get too dirty, I toss them and grab another pair. I think that I pay about $1 a pair for the goves.
[
www.fleetfarm.com]
[
www.fleetfarm.com]
4. So, whether, I am using the tapered file at each end of the grip, a long air craft extension bit drilling out the center of the grip, or a reverse pilot bit - I am holding the grip in my hand in the knit cloth glove hand. Then, as I am drilling or reaming, I let the grip slip and turn now and then. Generally a turn and a half or a partial turn or similar. By continuing to let the grip turn a bit in my hand as I am reaming and drilling, the hole in the grip will remain centered. If I do not let the grip turn a bit from time to time, the hole almost always ends up off center.
4. Also, when using the pilot drill bits - do NOT drill all of the way through from one end. Rather, drill a bit over 1/2 way through from each end.
5. If I am reaming or drilling for a grip that is going to fit on a blank that has an extreme taper, I will generally use two different aircraft extension bits. A larger size when drilling from the butt end of the grip and a smaller size when drilling from the tip side of the grip.
6. By the way, I use a variable speed drill for all of my reaming and drilling with either a 3/8th drill or a 1/2 inch drill - depending on the size of the drill bit shaft.
7. When drilling, I will often only be turning at 30-60 rpm. However, my finger is constantly on the trigger of the drill and will vary the speed as I see fit, up to and including the top speed of the drill. But generally, I do a large % of the drilling and reaming at a very slow drill speed.
But, I have found that the #1 key to keeping the hole centered in the grip is to let the grip slip from time to time.
By the way, whenever I am going to center drill a grip that I have n the lathe, I will always use the drill bit in a fixed position in the tail stock chuck and then spin the grip by holding the grip in the head stock of the lathe.
This technique always results in a perfectly centered hole on a round object.
A picture of the setup that I use when center drilling a grip by using the lathe:
[
www.rodbuilding.org]
Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 03/04/2017 06:30PM by roger wilson.
