when applying prokote over a large area(like over a decal or decorative wraps). How do you prevent small dimples and waves in the finish and get a perfectly smooth finish once it has dried?

Thanks in advance

Leave it alone and let it do what it does.

Go over the finishing article in the online library here. Generally, the less you mess around with an epoxy the better your results are going to be.

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I'm new to rod building but I did what tom suggests and haven't had a problem yet.

Prokote is no different in this regard than any other wrap epoxy. In addition to the posted advice, I would add that you want to be sure you have no contaminants on the surface, don't add any heat after applying the epoxy, use longitudinal strokes to apply the epoxy to minimize any lumps due to uneven application. If your decorative wraps are done with thread designed for embroidery it may have lubricant in it, so CP is likely necessary to seal that in the thread.

Blow along the top through a straw as the rod is spinning to get rid of the small bubbles, the heat from your breath is enough to do the job.

Ray Zarychta
Glastonbury, CT

Brody

"Waves" or hills and valleys are most probably the result of excess finish. If you are using ProKote's medium viscosity finish it is easy to get carried away trying to build a level and deep finish with a single application. Better to apply two, thin coats.

"Dimples" could be what is known as fish eye or simply be small places where finish was not applied. Michael D's comments above speak to avoiding contaminants that cause fish eye. My experience has been that ProKote (and most others) is very intolerant of contamination of oil, left over glue, or areas cleaned with DNA and not subsequently cleaned by another means. Watch your wraps and finish closely as it cures, and if you see finish voids or "dimples" develop where the finish was previously even then it is fish eye and the challenge is to to find and eliminate the contamination source.

Brody,

To get a glass like finish don't put your rod on a drying machine. Turn the rod 180 degrees every 3 - 5 minutes and remove the drips from the bottom of the rod. Make sure you turn it exactly 180 degrees. You can increase the time of the rotate after say 30 - 40 minutes. After an hour, if temperature is in the 70 degree range, then out it on a dying machine. That way you have removed the excess epoxy and it will no longer migrate into dimples and valleys.

I fought this same problem until I read Tom's "Perfect Epoxy", for a 3rd time, and followed his recommendations! The epoxy comes out like glass!

Don Campbell
don@sensorfishingrods.com

Donald,
There are many ways to apply finish and get a perfect glass like finish.

Many others like myself, apply finish quickly using a rod wrapping machine and as soon as it stops, switch it over to a slower speed dryer of 5-20 rpm. Depending on the person and the rod, the finish turns out perfect.

Simply put, do some experimenting, find a method that works for you, and perfect it to your satisfaction.

Good luck

1st time using Prokote as we speak.

I have had a rod sitting in storage for 8+ years. This was a rehab blank that I painted and coated with Permagloss about 14 years ago. For some reason, while in storage, a few of the guide wraps lifted from the blank. This was only the epoxy at the ends and not the wraps themselves. So I carefully did a little shaving with a blade to remove any "flares" at the end of the wraps, and applied a coat of Permagloss to the wraps, and then a second coat to the wraps and blank for good measure. I really wanted to try and seal up any open areas if there were any.

Today I applied Prokote to the guide wraps. I also epoxied the entire area from the grip to the butt guide...probably 12" since it's a saltwater live bait rod. The Prokote leveled just fine with no issues, lumps, bumps, etc. I'll be needing at least one more coat to cover any of the crud left on the end of those troublesome guide wraps.

When mixing, I practically whipped it to a froth...there were millions of micro bubbles. It released most of those in the cup...almost looked like a Sprite or 7UP fizzing in there. What didn't pop in the cup must have when on the rod because I don't see any.

Prokote may not be my first choice, but I didn't seem to have any issues with it.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 02/28/2017 03:09PM by Jay Lancaster.

well after combing a couple different techniques i found one that works a lot better than what i had been doing before.

I was applying too much finish the first time and not taking the extra off.