Gentlemen,

I have been asked by a friend to build a multi-piece travel rod 5' to fit in his motorcycles saddle bags for a trip he is planning in April. The longest any section can be is about 16 inches. I have searched, but have been unable to locate anything manufactured to fit the bill. So, I figured I could build it by cutting a one piece into multiple sections. The only problem with that is, while I have built many rods and tried most things, I have never tried building ferrules. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

Any information will be greatly appreciated...

Thanks
Doug Moore

Regards......Doug@
TCRds

Several articles on ferrule making in past issues of RodMaker. It's a subject that would require more than a forum post. It can be successfully done, but requires careful measuring and fitting of the pieces. You're looking at a fairly huge amount of work.

.................

That much I had figured out, but I'm willing to give it a try... Heck I learn something every time I try something new... What past issues would you recommend?

Regards......Doug@
TCRds

That much I had figured out, but I'm willing to give it a try... Heck I learn something every time I try something new... What past issues would you recommend?

Regards......Doug@
TCRds

Sorry for the double click!

Regards......Doug@
TCRds

I'll have to dig through them over the weekend.

..............

What type of fishing, what species? How about a Tenkara rod if fishing for trout.

What is this rod going to be used for? Tom is correct it will take some careful measurements and planning to get equal length rod sections. There are basically two ways to attempt this. The first one is to make spigot ferrules and the second is to make over-sleeve ferrules. You could use metal ferrules but the weight of the ferrules will be more than the blank itself. For spigot ferrules you can use pieces from a solid fiberglass blank with a similar taper to your blank. Pieces of solid fiberglass for the spigot can be sanded to match the ID of the butt section so that a portion protrudes for which the ID of next section will snugly fit over. You need to have at least a 1/8" gap between the two blank sections to allow for wear. This will require trimming back either the tip of the butt section or the butt of the tip section of the blank 1/8". You repeat the process for the next section.and so on. The spigot will be glued in to the butt section and the length of the protruding spigot needs to be taken into account for determining where to cut the blank. The overlap for each of the two blank sections should be between 1 1/2" - 2" . For over-sleeve ferrules you can buy an addtional blank with the same taper, and this blank can be used to make the over sleeves. Or if you have a stash of broken rods you can use them for making sleeves. Do not use thick walled blanks. The length of the ferrule over lap needs to be accounted for when cutting the blank, and the ferrule overlap will be between 1 1/2" - 2", with a 1/8" wear gap. I certainly would not do this using a high end blank, use the most inexpensive blank you can find. Tried to make this explanation short, but if you have further questions just ask.
Norm

I might suggest that you friend just buy a telescopic rod - for example:

Tough, inexpensive and ready to fish.

[www.amazon.com]

Doug,
I spent quite a bit of time developing a method to make my own FG internal/external ferrules, for sectioning the one piece vintage FG rods I build, using the blank itself as a mold/buck. I call them the CARL = Continuous Arch Rod Link. They work awesome, disturbing the natural flex curve of the original blank extremely little and weigh less than 3g for each set. I haven’t found much interest here on the rodboard, but if you are interested, email me and I would be glad to share so as not to clutter up the rodboard. They are inexpensive to make, strong yet flexible, inherently identical tapers, and require one to two hours to fabricate from start to fitting finish.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Mark, sounds interesting. I would be interested in your technique. Back 45 yrs ago if you wanted a two piece rod you used metal ferrules, which I disliked. Some companies back then sold rods with either the sleeve or spigot type ferrules, so I copied these and started making my own using old broken rods as a source of ferrule material trying to match the modulus so as to maintain a smooth curve at the ferrule.These worked very well but can be a hit or miss proposition that required a lot of dry fitting, measuring, and testing. I measured multiple times and cut once. Hopefully your method might be simpler.Thanks
Norm

Hello Doug.

There are a lot of things about ferrules From Alignment marks (V-6 / I-1 / Pg.-10) to complete manufacturing (V-16 / I-2 /Pg.-12).

However I think you are just interested in the Mfg. ones so I have 3 I think will help starting from the ones I would read first, 1. V-16 / I-2 /Pg.-12, 2. V-4 / I-4 / Pg.-22, and 3. V-17 / I-3 / Pg.-10.

Still working on my data base but I think I got them all, if anyone knows of others, Speak-up.


PS- I found another story in V-16 / I-2 / Pg. 12.

Hope this gets the job done.

Tight Wraps & Tighter Lines.

Bob,

New Bern, NC.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/26/2017 09:49AM by Robert A. Guist.

Thanks, Bob...!

Regards......Doug@
TCRds

No Problem.

Bob,

New Bern, NC.

i agree with roger...i make these types with cabelas telescopic pan fish rods..each section is about one foot long...they come in 10 12 feet lengths...just make your rod fro m the first 5 or 6 feet..i,ve made several fly rods from the first 8 to 9 feet and just cut the tip section back to handle the different line sizes i want to use...put afly guide at each junction. you don,t have to worry about guide alignment until you get out on the water. lol. one big negative is your guides are not in optimim positions...don,t hair pin these rods in the least bit, i,ve broken two so far and i,m trying not to. but they ae cheap and very easy to build and fit nicely in my kickboat pouches..

Norman,
If you are still interested, please afford me the time to properly produce a production procedure and I will email it to you to avoid contaminating the Rodboard.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.