Just finished a rod and when I checked the epoxy this morning it was good on the rod and the aluminum can I mixed it in but there was this spot (about the size of a penny that was still gooey and not at all set up. I was just curious if maybe I did a bad job mixing even though I mixed till all the streaks were gone and timed it for 2 mins or it's just not fully cured yet? It was flex coat high build.
Thanks Trace!

I would put it in a warm spot/room and leave it for another day.

Could it be a bad mix? Sure. Even though you mixed well, it could have been a missed spot on the side of the mixing cup that didn't get scraped, or the bottom/corners that didn't get scraped.

Just put the rod in a warm spot and leave it a little while longer. It may all turn out ok.

PS...if you have one of those small heaters that plug in the wall, put the rod in a small room (like a bathroom) and turn that little heater on with the door closed. That will cure it...if it can be cured.

Think Jay L is spot on correct.

2 minutes seems like enough when mixing by hand, but is a little short. Throw in some resin or hardener on the side of the mixing cup that was not well incorporated and bad things can happen.

It took me 20 years to see the light and buy an epoxy mixer. Would not trade it for anything. Warm the resin, measure at least 3 ml each component carefully using syringes, mix in an epoxy mixer 3 to 4 minutes, and you get perfectly mixed, bubble free epoxy that will cure at room temperature (70 degrees or above) every time.

Whenever I mix finish, I use a plastic cup, a craft stick and a clock.

I insert equal parts of part a and part b using the craft stick. I use a sander to sand the end of the craft stick flat, but sand a touch of rounding on the ends to avoid cutting the plastic cup. I mix slowly, frequently scraping the side of the cut and scraping off the sides of the craft stick so that there is 0 unmixed material in the cup. I mix for at least 120 seconds or two minutes.

I went to this method many years ago, and have had no issues with mixing ever since.

Good luck

I "always" keep the mixing cup that is normally dispensed after using 2 part finish that was mixed in it. Reason is to check bottom and sides of cup for proper mixing, and hardening of all finish. I don't want to find any tacky material after sufficient dry time. If any material is tacky in mixing cup, I expect to find a problem with one or more thread wraps.

There was one time that the used mixing cup was tacky inside. Moving to the rod to check rod wraps, all were tacky. Way to dry for epoxy sagging, but tacky at surface. Someone on this board recommended I apply a light coat of thread epoxy over tacky coat. I think in total that made a 3rd light coat. Fixed the problem. I determined that not equal parts of "a" and "b" were mixed, causing the problem.

Only really bad experience came with a experiment. I saved a empty, clear, fingernail polish container with brush attached to lid, tightly threaded onto container to use the brush to apply 2 part epoxy finish at a later date.

That brush worked really good for applying thread finish. Only, thread finish never set up! That little bit of clear fingernail polish left on that brush to keep brush supple until ready to use, was enough to counter act 2 part epoxy from setting up. Not one of the 8 or 9 epoxy coated thread wrap's set up! Normally thread finish is set in a couple of hours even though rod turns longer that. 5 hours later I removed epoxy from guides after deciding epoxy was never going to set up, but mostly to keep wet epoxy from potentially making a dripping mess while I slept. I started drying rod about 9pm, by 2am I needed some sleep so removed most wet epoxy. Next morning I finished removing epoxy, never set up, still wet.

I read the epoxy mixer you run it for 4 minutes and the finish is mixed and bubble free. Will this work with high build and with a 4 minute mix still give you time to apply the finish on every guide on say a 12 foot rod. If it does I am getting one for sure. Heard about them but never used one or though about it before reading this post.

Bob

Hey thanks guys I was thinking along the same lines but wasn't sure. I'll have to adjust my way of mixing a bit thanks!

I use a mixer and mix 12 cc A to 12 cc B at a time and run 4 minutes and do not have any problems but I have to work fast applying

Sold on this idea of a mixer now, my nephew will be ordering one for me next week when he orders his own stuff

Thanks for the information

Bob

For those folks who use finish mixers - how do you get into all of the corners of the mixing cup and sides of the mixing cup to insure that all is cleaned up and well.

What do you use to clean up the mixing ball or mixing rod - after mixing a batch of guide finish?

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For these questions are the reasons that I prefer the use of a cup and a craft stick with a flat end and slightly rounded edges on the flat end. I always scrape the bottom and sides of the cup when mixing and frequently wipe off the craft stick when mixing. When done mixing, I simply wipe off the stick with a piece of paper towel and I am ready for the next batch to mix. i.e. I get essentially 0 waste using the method outlined above.


Good luck

I've had a good look at the way my mixer works & it appears that the surface tension on the epoxy is sufficient to pull it out of the corners .I use a 3/8'' ball bearing to do the mixing & have been using it for the last 3-5 yrs .To date there has never been a batch that has never set up .I use dedicated syringes that stay in the bottles & only cleaned when changing bottles .The mix is always 3+3 & it runs while getting things organised I:E aluminium tart dish, cleaning cloths, masking tape, spatula & tooth picks .As soon as I have those materials on the wrapper I then pour the mixture into the tart dish & commence to apply the epoxy .I'm not saying everyone should do this all I can say is it works for me.

Regards Baz

Bundeena
NSW Australia

Hello Roger.

I use the bearing mixing rod with the shaft handle welded to it (MudHole EM-1-MXR) and a mixing stick (MudHole @#$%&-100) to get into the "corners" while it is turning,, but I only mix about 3 minutes.
For clean-up when I take the "rod" out of the cup I am mixing in, wipe it down with the brush I'm using to coat with, and throw it into an old mixing cup 3/4 full of DNA, and wipe it down with a paper towel later when I have a minute.

Tight Wraps & Tighter Lines.

Bob,

New Bern, NC.

Trace,
Agreeing with Roger, I have considered purchasing a mixer but have never been comfortable with the ability of the mixing rod, let alone a ball, to get all the epoxy and/or hardener out of the bottom corner to thoroughly and equally mix the entire batch. That being said, Barry may have a valid point of the surface tension being adequate to pull the epoxy from the corners of the cup. Really, with a ball? Both are veteran rod builders whose opinions I value and from whom have learned quite a bit. I have never had any issues caused by inadequate mixing after learning the importance and techniques years ago from the composite industry. I may have to give a power mixer a try. Not that I am lazy, but a bubble-free batch would be a benefit. After all, Donald would not trade his for anything after mixing by hand for twenty years (obviously another veteran).

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

I've recently started mimicking the motorized mixer by hand. I had some leftover brand new ball bearings from a bicycle wheel rebuild. I throw one of those sucker in a cup with the epoxy, tilt the cup and turn by hand for about four and a half minutes. I scrape the sides with the other end of the brush I'm using once in a while, to make sure it all gets incorporated. I get very few bubbles this way, the mix comes out clear and it cures nice and hard. And it's cheaper than buying the mixer!

Wipe off the ball, dunk it in DNA and wipe again...ready for the next batch. Done this about 5 or 6 times now with all good results.