My first rod was a 1 piece so I didnt have to worry about dealing with wrapping the ferrel of a 2 piece rod. I just recently purchased a 2 piece trout rod, so know i have to figure out how to wrap the ferrel. I saw that there are extenders available but Im sure someone here has done something different. I was thinking of just getting a wooden dowel but I need a way to connect it to the rod dryer that is a larger diameter than the dowel would be. Suggestions?

OK I Just turn the rod around put the tip in and dry the rod that way never had a problem. But I do have a homemade dryer.

I just put the two pieces together and then wrap it. You could use a dowel as well but don't jam it in there. Get the wrap as close to the end of the ferrule as possible. When you finish it make sure the epoxy doesn't drip off the edge and 1) either glue the two peices together, or 2) drip off the end of the ferrule and get inside the ferrule.

DG

Thats the part that worries me, the rod finish. If I put tape on the male end before applying finish, should that do that job? I would then remove the tape once im done the finish. I guess I just have to pay attention to what im doing in terms of the rod finish.

Ken,
A really simple solution.
Whenever I wrap and dry two piece rods, I simply wrap and dry the rod with the rod assembled.

But, to avoid any issues at all with having the sections sticking together - due to a miscue on a rod finish, I just take waxed paper and put a double wrap of waxed paper around the smaller section. Then, I insert the wax paper and smaller section into the larger section and push together until tight.

Glue and rod finish will NOT stick to wax paper. Although I have never let the finish slip over the edge of a section when applying finish - the paper will protect the sections from sticking together - if finish ever was spilled over the end of the section.

Now, if you would like to work on the individual sections, another very easy solution. I keep a supply of solid fiberglass sections on hand. These are from either old solid rod blanks, or if you don't have any handy, just go to your local hardware store and pick up one or several of the fiberglass driveway markers that are generally available at most hardware stores for very little money.

Then, take a 4 or 5 inch piece of blank and inset it into a variable speed corded or cordless drill. Then, hold the drill such that you can press the spinning piece of blank material against the spinning belt of a belt sander. If you have a sanding disk, you could use the spinning sanding disk to reduce the size of the solid blank material. As you reduce the diameter, keep checking the size of the tapered end of the blank, until you match the size of the smaller blank section and have a nice perfect slip fit into the inside of the larger blank section.

Then, just take a piece of old cork grip, or extra eva grip and size the end of the large end of the solid blank to fit nicely on the inside of the grip section. Either reduce the size by sanding, or build up the size by using masking tape to enlarge it.
When the size of the piece of solid stock is correct, add a bit of epoxy to the solid stock and glue it into the inside of the piece of grip.

Then, use this piece of grip to insert into the wrapper when wrapping, or into the dryer when drying if you have a chuck style dryer.

But, if applying finish to the end of the larger blank section, still put a piece of waxed paper around the end of the piece of tapered solid stock just as you would do if you were using the rod itself when wrapping or drying. Again, you do not want any excess finish that may get onto the solid stock to glue the solid stock into the end of the larger blank section.

Over the years, I have used the wax paper technique for all sorts of material gluing and finishing when I want a perfect fit with no chance of pieces getting glued together.

I always keep a roll of waxed paper in the rod shop to use whenever I am working with a couple of pieces of materials that are having finish or glue work done, but do not want particular pieces to be glued together.

Wax paper never leaves any adhesive residue behind as happens when using tape to prevent adhesion. Also, some glues and finishes, adhere very well to masking or other types of tape.

Take care

I use CHOP sticks [ free local store ] use masking tape to fill the voids , I don't have the room for full length rods, I wax the sticks an tape I use bee's wax, it is the sticky- est wax I could find ,
PS if the chop sticks are too big to fit cut with a sharp knife, to small build up with tape, it works for me

William Sidney
AK

Ken, I've had no problems with ferrule finish getting where it doesn't belong and causing a problem. As a point of interest, rod finish is a poor adhesive, if your concerned just apply any decent wax product from furniture to candle wax on the area the ferrule covers than nothing will stick to it and remove it later with denatured alchohol when the rod finish has set.

mudhole has a mandrels for that

[www.mudhole.com]



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/17/2017 11:32AM by Barry Thomas Sr.

Think about this logically. When you apply epoxy to your guide wraps it goes & stays exactly where you put it. It's not going to run. Put the 2-piece blank together, apply the epoxy, let it turn, and never look back. There really isn't a need for special tools or techniques.

Thanks for the all the suggestions. Ill just be careful when I setup the 2 piece rods :) Ill see what works the best for me out of the suggestions.

I think there is a lot of over-thinking going on here. Just keep the wrap an eighth of an inch away from the end of the blank and finish it. There is no rational reason to wrap it as close to the end as possible. You can stop the wrap even farther away from the joint if you don't want to put an alignment dot on the wrap, but on the blank itself. (some dots don't transfer to wraps but do to the harder blanks, like the Decal Connection dots)