Hi there

I have read posts about the lump on one side of the guide once the epoxy finish has dried. I have read different reasons on other sites and it is confusing. Can someone help me out with the reason this happens, it looks like a tumor on the side.

Thanks for any help I sure do appreciate it. This is the site to get the right answer I am sure.

Bob

Bob,
About the only way that one would get a lump on one side of the guide is because the rod turning was stopped during the drying cycle before the finish had completely cured.

I generally leave the rod turning for 10-20 hours after the application of finish. This is the case, even though the finish is no longer tacky after about 6 hours or so.

Better safe than sorry.

Be safe

Roger is correct, the only way of getting a lump on the side, is that the side was down and the epoxy sagged to the lowest point.

I got one of these and the rod was turning all night with heat lamps on the rod section and the epoxy was dry, strange really how it happened. I read on one forum these issue is to much epoxy applied, what do you guys think

No question about it far to much epoxy. When a heavy load of epoxy is applied you can get sagging even as the rod turns. Like a hanging drop. Cut down on the amount of epoxy applied, two thin coats are better than one heavy coat..
Norm

Maybe you thought the rod was turning, and maybe the power failed while you slept? Power service fails, drive belts break, and breakers trip when we are not watching.

Too much epoxy on a turning rod = football. A rod not turning = lump on one side.

In my limited time building I've ended up with both of those (lump and football) and agree 100% with the above, especially what Donald pointed out. When I ended up with a lump I had too much epoxy and was slow to turn it (done manually initially then went to the rod turner).

Bob is the lump centrally located on the wrap, or is it close to the end of the wrap? Is it a football/teardrop lump, or is it a quick peak like a pyramid?

Could also be that the rod was not centered correctly in the chuck. If the rod is spinning in a lopsided manner then then the epoxy may level unevenly. Did the power go out for any amount of time? I had that happen where the power went out for 10 minutes, epoxy sagged a little, when the power came back on, it rotated again, and the sag that started to form didn't work its way out. Its definitely a sagging issue whetaher its, no spin, unlevel blank positioning, or off center chucking

DG

I noticed non of previous posts mentioned rod turning speed, could that be a factor? Also, could rod be slipping as it turns?

It seems to me that if the rod is tight in the chuck, spinning at one continuous speed while applying finish, and is level. If finish is applied to thick, or is too viscous, a puddle of epoxy would appear, first as a very slight sag. If, more epoxy is applied, that sag becomes more pronounced as a drop? If this sag occurs in the center of wraps, rod blank is level. Sag forms at front or back of wraps, rod blank is not level in direction of sag. If rod is level, epoxy sag is removed until consistent thickness of epoxy appears from front to back of wraps, at this point move to next wrap?

After each wrap is satisfactorily coated with epoxy, go back and look at previous guide wraps looking for excessive epoxy? If all steps mentioned were completed. Power interruption, motor malfunction, or chuck tightness should be checked? Heck, even room temperature could be a factor?

Reason for so many question marks is that I built one rod in my lifetime. Most of my epoxy experience comes from repairing broken rods and replacing/adding rod guides. So, both a statement based on limited experience, and a question because so many on this board are far more skilled.

Well lots of options to consider. The rods turn on a 6 clip dryer, 2 round plywood drums with 6 clips on each. The motor is a DC variable speed with V belt drive, the dryer is perfectly level and the power didn't go off or the clocks would be out of wack. I run the dryer before at the speed I got the lump and this is the first time, this lump is from the start of the wrap to the end at the guide and tapers out at the start and then back in at the end and is at a 90 degree angle to the guide foot.. I have a feeling I applied to much epoxy I used Flexcoat high build, always have used this and never an issue.

One suggestion mentioned was the position of the rod, I have a theory now. If you put the rod in the dryer with the guide foot not on a at a 90 degree angle to the drum it can create a dam which could prevent the epoxy from running evenly when the rod is at the bottom of the turn, does this sound crazy, maybe. I will be cutting the wrap off and re-doing it, looks bad like it is.

I thank all that spent their time and came back with answers, appreciate the help and ideas.

Bob

Motor is a variable speed.........interesting. Flexcoat "high build", isn't that thick? Thin coat was suggested 20 years ago when I first started dinking around with rod guides, repairs.......ect. Doesn't high build allow for one coat vs two thin coat applications?

I would think the combination of high build viscosity and amount applied would be the problem. While dryer was spinning, was the epoxy spreading evenly during the minutes after finishing application on all rod guides?

High build is thick, but when first mixed is easy to work with. When it was applied it was nice and even and then clipped on the dryer, when it was dry I saw the lump.

Bob,

You said you are going to cut the wrap off and redo it; how about just trimming the extra epoxy off, and recoating with a thin layer of fresh epoxy? That would save you a bunch of work, and no one would be able to tell there was ever a lump. I've done it many times. It works great, as long as you don't damage the threads when trimming the excess epoxy.

Take care,

Chris

I can try that first trimming the lump off and if I do damage I can wrap the guide again, funny thing is the rod is mine and not for someone else so maybe just leave it and let the grandkids use it. Some good ideas and problem solving and I appreciate your time to answer my questions.

Bob

Good idea...especially if you're planning a re-wrap anyway. Single bevel razor, shallow slice parallel with the surface. You'll end up with flat spots, but a light sand & your epoxy will likely level it back out. Worth a try for sure.

Jay Lancaster Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Good idea...especially if you're planning a
> re-wrap anyway. Single bevel razor, shallow slice
> parallel with the surface. You'll end up with
> flat spots, but a light sand & your epoxy will
> likely level it back out. Worth a try for sure.


X 2 I would a;so use a damp (with water) lint free rag to clean up the dust afterwards. Acetone or DA will sometimes make the dust from sanding stick to the sanded area. Also agree with light coats of epoxy.

I did not read it mentioned: how many epoxy wraps have a dried lump? Instead of cutting off lump and having a flat spot to shape with sandpaper, consider sanding lump off. Sanding will give you total control of shaping that spot to existing contour, takes very little effort to remove. Area will have a matte finish from sanding, but after recoat that area totally disappears, will not show!

I have sanded 2 part epoxy several times before recoating. Usually in an attempt to level a spot or remove a thread wrap end that appeared after first coat, remove a bubble, that sort of stuff.

Also, toyed with using sewing thread and clear finger nail polish for temporary guide wrap repairs. When using sewing thread, sanding between coats is a must to remove thread fuzz. I have experienced good result with permanent repairs! Tricky part of using finger nail polish is hardening. I have a fly rod that had a double crush, 1 on male end of 2 pcs rod, other crush to tip section ferrule. Slammed rod in public restroom door. Used the repair technique that is a sticky on this site. 5 years, multiple uses in all kinds of weather, launching 60ft cast, catching large Lahontan Cutthroat, saltwater beach fishing, no signs of wear to finish, still glossy!

Only negative result was when a permanent black marker was applied to trim color first 1/4" of 3" long, deep red thread wraps just to see the result. After coating with clear nail polish black ink turned yellow! Hardened just fine but was not the intended trim color.........:>(.

Was it mentioned: how many epoxy wraps have a dried lump? Instead of cutting off lump and having a flat spot to shape with sandpaper, consider sanding lump off. Sanding will give you total control of shaping that spot to existing contour, takes very little effort to remove. Area will have a matte finish from sanding, but after recoat that area totally disappears, will not show!

I have sanded 2 part epoxy several times before recoating. Usually in an attempt to level a spot or remove a thread wrap end that appeared after first coat, remove a bubble, that sort of stuff.

Also, toyed with using sewing thread and clear finger nail polish for temporary guide wrap repairs. When using sewing thread, sanding between coats is a must to remove thread fuzz. I have experienced good result with permanent repairs! Tricky part of using finger nail polish is hardening. I have a fly rod that had a double crush, 1 on male end of 2 pcs rod, other crush to tip section ferrule. Slammed rod in public restroom door. Used the repair technique that is a sticky on this site. 5 years, multiple uses in all kinds of weather, launching 60ft cast, catching large Lahontan Cutthroat, saltwater beach fishing, no signs of wear to finish, still glossy!

Only negative result was when a permanent black marker was applied to trim color first 1/4" of 3" long, deep red thread wraps just to see the result. After coating with clear nail polish black ink turned yellow! Hardened just fine but was not the intended trim color.........:>(.

It was only the one wrap, all done now, cut it off and re-did it so life is back to normal

Thanks for all the help and suggestions

Bob