I
nternet gathering place for custom rod builders
  • Custom Rod Builders - This message board is provided for your use by the sponsors listed on the left side of the page. Feel free to post any question, answers or topics related in any way to custom building. When purchasing products please remember those who sponsor this board.

  • Manufacturers and Vendors - Only board sponsors are permitted and encouraged to promote and advertise products on the board. You may become a sponsor for a nominal fee. It is the sponsor fees that pay for this message board.

  • Rules - Rod building is a decent and rewarding craft. Those who participate in it are assumed to be civilized individuals who are kind and considerate in their dealings with others. Please respond to others in the same fashion in which you would like to be responded to. Registration IS NOW required in order to post. You must include your actual First and Last name and a correct email address when registering or posting. Posts which are inflammatory, insulting, or that fail to include a proper name and email address will be removed and the persons responsible will be barred from further participation.

    Registration is now required in order to post. You must include your actual First and Last name and a correct email address when registering or posting.
SPONSORS

2024 ICRBE EXPO
CCS Database
Custom Rod Symbol
Common Cents Info
American Grips Piscari
American Tackle
Anglers Rsrc - Fuji
BackCreek Custom Rods
BatsonRainshadowALPS
CRB
Cork4Us
HNL Rod Blanks–CTS
Custom Fly Grips LLC
Decal Connection
Flex Coat Co.
Get Bit Outdoors
HFF Custom Rods
HYDRA
Janns Netcraft
Mudhole Custom Tackle
MHX Rod Blanks
North Fork Composites
Palmarius Rods
REC Components
RodBuilders Warehouse
RodHouse France
RodMaker Magazine
Schneiders Rod Shop
SeaGuide Corp.
Stryker Rods & Blanks
TackleZoom
The Rod Room
The FlySpoke Shop
USAmadefactory.com
Utmost Enterprises
VooDoo Rods

Lessons Learned
Posted by: John Wright (---.om.om.cox.net)
Date: February 04, 2017 12:05PM

I finished my second weave and thought a summary of lessons learned might be of use to other novice weavers. I had to redo each weave at least 2 times (4 for the first) before I got one that I felt was acceptable. Here are some of the things I did that caused problems or I found helpful.

1. Lost concentration. On more than one occasion I missed a thread. So I would get several columns into the wrap, and I would find a thread that needed to be removed or changed and the thread wasn't there. I thought no problem and just ignored it. Wrong move, the result was not pretty and not what I wanted. I did this going right to left and left to right.

2. After a lot of searching, I found (for me) the best way to set up the weave is to follow Doc Ski's video. I use a free computer program to build my pattern, so I had the thread list already. When using masking tape, I found the tape did not retain its "stickyness" long enough. I may have been using cheap tape or old tape, not sure. My solution was to put a layer of blue painters tape down (I used 2" tape), then add a layer of carpet tape. I then used my dental tool to press the threads into the carpet tape. Then repeat the process for the next layer, blue tape, followed by carpet tape. One other thing I did after each layer was to add a wrap of thin (1/8") masking tape to the threads just to the right of the carpet tape/blue tape. This held the threads tight to the rod so when I was starting my weave, and adding the first few wraps with background thread, the threads stayed in some kind of order. I did this for each layer. I will say the removing the tape after the wrap was finished was a hassle. That carpet tape is tough and difficult to remove even from the blue tape. It wasn't impossible, but did take some time. Since I used blue tape, I didn't have any problems with the carpet tape on the blank.

3. I found that on occasion I cut the design threads to short. As I got to the end that made moving the threads difficult as the thread gets shorter as you weave. If I had read all the guidance, I would have known that before I started.

4. As I was moving the design threads from right to left, I gave the thread a slight tug to the right and toward the center. This kept the weave relatively tight. That's not to say I didn't follow Doc Ski's packing and tightening directions that can be found here, I just added this step after reading about doing it from another post.

5. In the past I have had difficulty with the "whip finish" wraps on chevron wraps. I followed Doc Ski's instructions on tightening and cutting the design threads and had no problems at all.

6. Last, when I was putting on the epoxy, I was careful to make sure I got all the bubbles out. On my first wrap I had some and it really created some problems. I was able to fix the issue by using Doc Ski's suggestions on fixing mistakes. I found that on Youtube and his process has simplified my finishing a lot.

One last thing, I still haven't completely figured out. That's keeping the threads in different layers in the proper position. On my last weave I found the threads from the upper layer were getting moved to the lower layer and under the threads. When I went to move a thread from right to left I found the threads were pulling the upper threads up. I had to spend a lot of time "untangling" threads so they were not causing problems. If I ignored the problem, I had the upper color showing in my weave because it was on top of the thread on the left. If anyone has a way to solve this issue I would appreciate any advice.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Lessons Learned
Posted by: Jim Upton (---.socal.res.rr.com)
Date: February 04, 2017 12:42PM

To answer your "one last thing" question, if you will take all of the threads out of the right hand jig slot and pick out the color you need and free it from any threads wrapped around or over it you should eliminate your problem. Be sure it butts up against the wrapping thread with no other thread in between when you take it to the left.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Lessons Learned
Posted by: John Wright (---.om.om.cox.net)
Date: February 05, 2017 09:06AM

Jim,

Thanks for the information. I think that is what I have been doing wrong. Not making sure the threads were free before moving them across.

John

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Lessons Learned
Posted by: larry basilio (---.phlapa.fios.verizon.net)
Date: February 05, 2017 09:36AM

John, I love doing weaves also. I have bin building rods for about 10 to15 years. Weaving is one of the things I love about rod building. There has bin lots of times that I had to get up and take a break from weaving. I have also made the same mistake you have made. Don't feel bad ,we all make those mistake in the learning curve. Best of luck to you , Watch a lot vetoes and read a lot books on weaving and you will be fine. Tight lines, larry

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Lessons Learned
Posted by: John Wright (---.om.om.cox.net)
Date: February 05, 2017 10:25AM

Jim and Larry,

First, Larry thanks for the words of encouragement. I started building when in grad school back in '75, so guess its been about 40+ years now. A lot has changed in that time and weaving is one of them. I actually did my first weave, a simple set of initials on a rod in '81. No looms or anything like that, used the discussion on weaving in Clemens book. But this level of weaving is completely new to me and it is enjoyable, especially watching the design materialize. Thanks again.

Jim, as I thought about what you were saying, I came up with a question. How do you handle the situation when two or more threads from the same layer get out of order. I have had occasion where the thread I pull from the right loom is actually about three or four threads out of place. For example if I am pulling thread 35, I find that it is under 36,37 and 38 and actually in the position that 38 should have. I have had this situation come up early in the wrap and late in the wrap. My approach has been to move all the threads to new positions on the left loom. So in this case 35 would be a new 38 and 38 is now 37, 37 is 36 and 36 is 35 etc. I haven't seen any negative impact on the weave, but just wondered how this happens and what to do to keep it from happening if anything.

Thanks again.

John

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Lessons Learned
Posted by: Jim Upton (---.socal.res.rr.com)
Date: February 05, 2017 11:53AM

John, That happens to all of us. Threads don't "stack" in neat rows, they get pulled down beside each other. Before you start weaving pull all the threads out of each slot, lift and snug them up into a close group. Then each time you take a thread from the right side jig, take out all of the threads in that slot and lift and snug them up, then take the one to the left that you want. That way you are straightening and tightening your threads as you progress. Moving all your threads over will work as long as you don't need the one on the end that's not there anymore. You can however in that case add a new thread if you need one. That explanation will take more space than we have here.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Lessons Learned
Posted by: Jerry Poindexter (---.tx.res.rr.com)
Date: February 05, 2017 02:22PM

John, you may not be aware that Jim has written a book on thread weaving...lots of good info/pics.

[www.mudhole.com]

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Lessons Learned
Posted by: Wayne Sargent (---.maine.res.rr.com)
Date: February 10, 2017 04:15PM

John - Can you send me the links to the videos you recommend as well as the program you use for your weave designs? I would be grateful for anything you have as I am just beginning to do wraps/weaves.

Thanks

Wayne

Options: ReplyQuote


Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.
Webmaster