Hi guys, so I built a split grip rod and the reelseat with a hidden locking nut rear grip using something I frabricated and long story short, it failed. It needs to be replaced with the KDPS quick-lock reel seat locking nut. My dilemma is I really like my existing bottom handle and don't want to cut it out but the replacement component needs to be inserted through the bottom.

My question is there any other options? What if I cut off the blank where the bottom handle is and do my repair then epoxy the blank back on using an inserted smaller blank to bridge the two pieces back together? Or would this really affect the action of the rod? Thanks!

Ild cut it right at the butt then it would be just like extending a handle on a already made rod

Sid,
If you remove the tip, guides and fore grip if you have one, can you take care of the issue.

Really dislike cutting a blank and splicing it back in if not necessary.

Take care

Double post, sorry.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/22/2017 03:38PM by Spencer Phipps.

I'm with Rodger the piece you put inside, to my mind, has to be as strong, or more so than the blank you cut IMO. Rarely is an interior splice that way, it's usually much thinner walled and with the thinner diameter much weaker. It will want the hinge at the cut you made, plus you must thread wrap over the break. It's all a durability issue, action shouldn't be affected to my way of thinking.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/22/2017 03:41PM by Spencer Phipps.

Being a musky guy I still don't see an issue most 9 foot muskie rods are telescopic and telescope in front of the grip so if u were to do this at your butt cap I really don't see it being an issue as far as durability. Worst case if u are really worried about it put a solid chunk of fiberglass rod back there then the rod will be stronger there then anywhere else in the blank. I've actually been thinking about dabbling with adding weight inside blank at butcap to get that perfect balance on vertical jogging rods

Danny,
If you add weight - do not add weight on the inside of the blank. Generally speaking, the blank is too small to be able to add sufficient weigh to balance the rod within 1/2 inch of the butt cap.
As a result, folks add more and more weight to the butt of the rod that comes further and further forward. The end result is that the rod simply gets heavier and heavier without doing a lot to balance the rod.
Rather, cut off the current butt cap and add a butt cap that has removable weights so that all of the weight is at the very end of the rod.
Or, cut the rear grip off by 1/2 or 3/4 inch depending on what you want to do, and then wrap lead tape to the outside of the blank. This will put the balancing weight at the extreme rear of the rod, where you have the longest lever arm to give you maximum balance effect with minimum added weight. Then, when you either get enough weight added - or when the addition of the butt cap brings the butt cap flush to the rest of the rear grip - stop adding weight.

In past years, I would use a rubber chair leg tip - turned down in a lathe and cut to appropriate length to go over the added weight of the lead tape to form the butt cap of the rod.

Good luck

Roger, unfortunately not. I have to go from bottom up to reach my issue.

I guess I will just have to cut out the handle and redo it...better safe than sorry I suppose.