So I get the theory behind this, but just curious how you guys actually do it. I gotta be honest, I haven't taken this step in the custom world, but would like to on my next rod. So what do you do? I will guide you...

Do you go to a local park? Do you bring a partner to measure? Do you measure distance, or just place markers to see which configuration works best? Do you bring a roll of masking tape to move your butt guide around? How do you secure all the other guides? How do you cast? How do you ensure the casts are with similar speed and force? How much difference in distance do you get when moving the stripper an inch forward or aft of the NGC derived location?

You don't have to answer all, I just wanted to hear some of your techniques out of curiosity. Thanks!

Yes, for every rod that has a custom grip and reel location according to the customers request I test cast. Use rubber tubing to hold the guides in place so the stripper/butt guide can easily be moved. I test cast everything between UL spin rods, to fly rods, to "pounder" musky rods that cast 16 ounces of treble hook infested rubber. It does make a difference. I am not looking at distance at first. Im checking for proper location of the stripper guide. Watch the line go through the guides, not where the casting plug is going. If the line is "pilling up" at the stripper guide it is too close (you can feel it tugging). If you can hear a tick tick tick as the line hits the blank it is too far away. Small half inch or less adjustments does make a big difference. A really good static line deflection test before the test casting is necessary. I install the tip top with tip top epoxy in case that needs to be replaced easily. Difference of braid vs mono will also make a small difference in stripper guide location.

I live in Wisconsin. So when it is above 40 degrees out (Usually June - July - Aug) I will cast in parks or if I am looking for actual distance the local high school football field which has the distances already marked. During the winter I will cast in a public school gymnasium after school and before the sports teams need to use the gym. Be sure to use rubber coating casting plugs so as not to mar the gym floor.. i get permission from the custodians to that building as well as the school administrator. Leaving a custom ice rod with a custodian usually gets me access before or after school year round. Explain to the staff what you are doing and you will often times go home with some rod repairs that school staff will give you when they see what you are up to. if you have a public pond that you can cast from for testing be careful that the "type" of lure that you are test casting is not for a species that the season is closed. In other words if it is April, and you are test casting a musky rod with large musky baits, even if that particular water has no muskies, and musky season doesn't open till May, you can't use an actual musky lure that has hooks on it. use that lure and take the hooks off. That comes direct from a warden who checked me one time. Thanks for the break warden. I appreciate it.
Downside is you always get that smart ass that will drive by when you are test casting and yell out the car window laughing "Catching any!!!"

Test casting does make a difference.

Awesome stories! I never thought about watching the line flow. I thought it was just about distance! I do try to always do static bend tests. I hang the weight form the tip and run a separate line through the guides. Thanks for the inputs!

Deleted...double post



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 01/09/2017 08:32AM by Randy Weakley.

Long ago an a prior life I used to test cast - a lot. Even went so far as to video the test cast, review in slow motion, etc. I was way over the top. It finally dawned on me that as you suggest there is no way to control the human factor so the results are questionable.

I still do a couple quick test casts in the yard to the lawn trout to prove there is nothing grossly wrong and occasionally to tweak a stripping guide's location. Beyond that I am no longer convinced of the value. As Buzz wrote above, a gross issue is quickly evident by sight or sound.

I use 1/4" tape to secure the guides for test casts and that usually holds for a few casts. Do take extra tape with you and do record the guide locations first. If you don't, you know what will happen!

Perfect guide placement will vary with the line being used: with nylon and fluorocarbon the diameter and stiffness of the line make a difference, and braid will be be different too. If the customer always uses the same type, brand, and diameter of line it would be beneficial to set up the guide train for that specific line. If the customer uses lines of various types, diameters, and stiffness then an "average" or compromise guide placement would best suit him.

Randy,
I stopped test casting a long time ago.

However, whenever I wrap a blank that I have never wrapped before, I will do a guide and a line running test with the blank.

With the grips and reel seat in place, I will tape my first guess at guide size and placement. Then, I will thread the line of choice through the guides and pull out about 100 feet of line.

I typically do this test with my bare feet. I hook the line through my toes to be able to put some pressure on the line. Then with light pressure on the line; I reel the line back onto the reel. As I reel, I watch the line flow to insure that I have the best line flow.

I always look at the stripper guide to be sure - with a spinning reel - that as the line is reeled in, it essentially works the full diameter of the stripper guide. If I find that the line is constantly rubbing on either the top or the bottom of the guide, I will change the size and or height of the guide - so that the line does indeed follow the full circumference of the stripper guide.
I also, stop for a bit and lock up the line and then put a full tension pull on the blank from the handle - to insure that the guide placement and sizes are such that the line nicely follows the contour of the loaded blank.

If both of these items check out, I will go ahead and wrap the guides at their then current placement. If not - I will change guide positions and or height and or sizes until I achieve the criteria mentioned above. If the rod has met this criteria - I have never had a rod returned for guide change work.

Good luck

For a lot of people it is difficult to test cast due to a lack of a convenient place to cast. Since I live on the water and my shop is part of my boat house I test cast every rod I make. I do this because I can and like like doing it. Everyone who fishes knows when a rod is casting well, the line should flow smoothly and quietly through the guides, without the need for excess casting force. For a casting rod, spool over runs should be minimal. I look at how the line comes off the reel and how it enters and exits the reduction train. If there are problems the reduction train is the usually the problem, and a little tweaking there can make a noticeable difference. I tape the guides in place and do not worry so much about the guides being perfectly aligned. I have made a bunch of casting plugs of various weights, and I use casting plugs within the blanks casting weight range. If everything feels and sounds good casting distance is usually maximized.
Norm

I live on a dead end street, build mostly freshwater rods and have spray painted lines on the macadam curbstone every twenty feet up to 120 feet. Using a 1/4 oz test lure I then test cast and adjust, static test done by looping the lure in my mailbox flag and bending. Try to keep it as simple as possible and do not worry, it will come out fine.

Ray Zarychta
Glastonbury, CT

I live on a dead end street, build mostly freshwater rods and have spray painted lines on the macadam curbstone every twenty feet up to 120 feet. Using a 1/4 oz test lure I then test cast and adjust, static test done by looping the lure in my mailbox flag and bending. Try to keep it as simple as possible and do not worry, it will come out fine.

Ray Zarychta
Glastonbury, CT

Sorry for the triple post, no patience with the OK button, duh is me.

Ray Zarychta
Glastonbury, CT

Randy, sometime ask what distances are to be expected from a certain rod, reel, and line combination. Get ready to sit back and laugh!

use rubber tube for temp mounting then place the rod in a holder that will cradle the front of the handle before the blank then run a line through and flex the rod with at least 5 pound weight look closely at the line lay and see where the flat spots are and then let up and move the guide forward or back ward that will eliminate line slap or reel over run resulting a birds nest then line should run out smoothly and you will achieve the maximum casting distance

The best day to be alive is always tomorrow !!
Think out side the box when all else fails !!!
Wi.

Ever notice that the baitcasting system with braid performs differently on water than when dry?

Same with mono, which apparently absorbs water? Of course the stiffness of fluorocarbon and nylon monofilament varies a great deal with ambient temperature - the colder, the stiffer, and the stiffness of the line is the primary consideration for the optimal placement of guides. This is another reason why test casting for the best guide placement is so difficult, and another argument for adopting a compromise or "average" guide placement. Movable guides on tracks with detents for different conditions seems to be the only way to achieve the ideal guide placement for all real fishing conditions.

I think we tend to overthink everything. I have some old cone of flight rods, early micro rods set up who knows how, and my latest set up with all the newest methods, and you know what? They all catch fish. And some surprise me with their casting distance.