So I want to put a graphite handle on the rod I'm working on and this is the handle im looking at (Woven Graphite Handle Tube Kit MHTHT-K-2 [0.980] from mud hole. It come with one graphite arbor that doesn't look nearly as long as the handle my question is am I supposed to cut that in half or how does a guy go about putting one of these things together? This is my first time dealing with one of these and still fresh to the game! Any input or advice on the whole graphite handle bussiness would be greatly appreciated:)

Thanks Trace Butkovich.

Hi Trace,

If it were me, I would cut the arbor into 4 equal pieces, to be spaced evenly under the grip.

Take care,

Chris

X2 Chris. They sell arbors to fit reel seat and butt cap as well.

the tube is strong enough not to collapse under pressure with those gaps? What if you did an Eva handle with that over the top? or is that then defeating the whole perpose of the light sensitive graphite?

It won't collapse. Don't put it in a rod holder and use for trolling. That will crush it.

You are not going to have a problem with the handle collapsing. Like Chris and Micheal suggest cut the arbor into 4 pieces and evenly distribute under the grip. If you want to completely arbor the entire length then buy another arbor, but I do not think that is necessary.
Norm

Ok thanks for the help and info guys! CFX Composite Carbon Fiber Grips I did just notice these grips at mud hole and wondered what your guys opinion was on these. It looks like the have a solid core?

They are great! Have used them on a number of rods.
Norm

If the handle collapsing is of concern, couldn’t the voids between the arbors be filled with epoxy? While adding weight, micro spheres could be added to lighten the mixture. Possibly reading Jeff Eller’s post, “First ever reel seat failure” on 01/03/2017 and the replies could cross over for your handle issues.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Norman,

You wouldn't happen to know the od of the 11.5" rear handle would you?

Mark,

Do you think it would heavier then just doing a graphite or Eva handle the whole way? It sounded like Jeff used a different material then those I could be wrong tho? I was reading some forums in the search bar and you had mentioned sollarcomposites.com. I was curious if you have used them to build carbon tubes before? Is it kind of the same processes Riley rods uses?

Riley, and most others, use the process which was developed by Andy Dear and myself. There is a urethane foam core skinned with a thin section of carbon fabric, wetted out with epoxy. You can make a carbon tube in somewhat the same manner by forming the carbon skin over a removable core material. We have covered all this in the magazine although I realize you may no have those issues. It's a fairly simple process either way but if making a tube you'll have to employ a thicker "skin" in order to have enough rigidity in the tube. The foam core models get by with a very thin skin as the skin is only there to protect the foam.

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The CFX grips are a foam core carbon fiber grip. They are very light and easy to ream. Have not used the 11.5" rear grip before, but it does fit an aero reel seat so guessing the front end is about 25 mm (1" ) in diameter. I have mostly used the fly rod and split grip versions and the 3.87" long split rear grip fits most casting reel seats perfectly. It has an OD at the reels seat of about 27 mm (1.06"). The tenion OD for the split grip fighting butt is about 19.5 mm and the OD of the fighting butt next to the tenion is about 26.4 mm. Since the 11.5" grip uses the same butt cap I assume the ODs at ends the fighting butt and the 11.5" grip are the same. So if needed you can cut off the tenion and flip the grip around.

If you are concerned about the length and weight of the graphite arbor that comes with your handle don't be. Theses arbors are lighter then EVA and are very strong and rigid. There is absolutely no problems cutting the arbor and evenly positioning them under the grip. The gaps between will cause no problems and will actually act as a vibration resonator. If you want to use arbors that may be slightly lighter then replace them with polyurethane arbors of the appropriate size. Hope this helps.
Norm



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/08/2017 10:50PM by Norman Miller.

Tom,

Is this process in one magazine? Do you think you could find the magazine # sounds like it would be good one to get ahold of. I'm assuming there like the cfx grips I was talking about with Norman?

Norman,

Thanks for the info and help I think this will be the grip I go with just feel more comfortable with solid contact along the whole blank beings it might see a little trolling as well.

Thanks Trace!

Volume 10 #6.

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My 130 lb. wife has stood on both carbon tube and the CFX grips to show they won't collapse under normal use.

Ok ok I believe you guys:) I'll have to try it on my next build. Once again I greatly appreciate all the responses, advice and help!

Thanks again Trace

Another quick question I seen there having a rod building gathering in Michigan. Was just curious if they ever do that hear in Washington mainly Vancouver/Portland area?

I'm not aware of any rod building clubs or groups in that area. The Michigan gathering is arranged by the Michigan group. There are certainly more than a few builders in the area you mention so if you wanted to try and get something going from your end it could be successful. A lot of times it just requires someone to get the ball rolling.

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