A Fin Nor offshore 6500 reel has one drawback for surf fishing: it is relatively heavy. Otherwise, it has an excellent drag, it is dang-near bomb-proof, and it sells at a fantastic price. If you want the inside info on surf reels ask an experienced and independent reel repairman. They know the glitzy junk from the real deal.

Norman,
How is the hidden rear hood / grip kept from turning / unscrewing / loosening while in use? I would think that would create quite a problem when fighting a sizeable, salt water fish, possible not as much with guides on the bottom of the rod and hence minimizing rod torque. I, at least, thought I was kidding until you just informed me otherwise that such a system exists. Are there others out there afflicted with habitual over thinking as me?

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

As usual, you guys have come through yet again. Thanks for taking the time. You are all in agreement of preferring the bailess reels with the addition of Russell opting for a bail when live bait or boat fishing.
Russell, very good to learn about max drag ratings and actual use. It makes very logical sense considering the spool of a spinning reel is only supported at one end unlike both ends of a conventional reel. Point very well taken. I’ll remember to only pull hard and quick to yank that surfer off his board!!!!!
The single issue I have considered against a bailess reel is the possibility of the “pick-up” losing the line if the line goes slack, due to such as current or wave action (mind-wandering?) or when landing the fish while it is flopping around. Is this an issue to consider or am I guilty of over-thinking again?
I do not own a spinning rod or reel for ocean fishing but suppose a reel for surf could also be used off shore as well for medium sized YT or WSB here off the SoCal coast. With its manual bail, I’ll have to take another look at the Daiwa Emblem Pro as Russel suggested. The reel could serve dual purposes and, being the cheap bas*^#d I am, the sale price at Tackle Direct is very enticing. The only problem is the need of acquiring a salt water spinning rod. Anybody know a good rod builder?

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Sorry guys. This should have been posted under my other "Bailess" topic.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

That is the major reason I do not like uplocking reel seats; for me they tend to loosen while fishing. I do not have this problem with down locking seats. However a lot of fishermen like the threads to the rear on a spinning rod which allows their hand to contact the foregrip or blank rather than the threads. So some will use a hidden thread hood to build a rear split grip for their spin rod. Hidden thread hoods are only made to fit size 16 and 17 reel seats as far as I know. I have done this a couple of times for a friend, I usied a Fuji VSS reel seat with a hidden hood rear split grip. Worked fine for him, and he liked it. Fuji now makes a 'backstop lock nut' that can be used with a hidden thread hood for their new TVS reel seat. This allows one to build it uplocking as a split grip. The lock nut supposedly prevents the hidden thread rear grip from loosening. Have not tried this yet because I build my hidden thread reel seats downlocking. Here is a link to the TVS reel seat and backstop lock nut. The description even makes mention to using this reel seat uplocking.
[www.mudhole.com]
Norm

Diana Emblem Pro They are light LONG casting reels I use 5500 and the Bigger 6000

For Surfers use 4 OZ Diamond Jigs

Barry,
Through my research, there a two models of Daiwa Emblem Pro, an “A” or “EX”. The “A” has the manual bail trip and the “EX” does not. Neither model mentions being water tight, so I can only assume they are not. What is your understanding?

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

I have Both Manual and Auto The manual will keep your Bail from slamming shut

They are not water tight (the drag is sealed). Be advised neither are many reels that are listed as such:)

To give you an idea of drag rating nonsense. [www.alanhawk.com]

If you hadn't mentioned surf casting in particular....but just wanted a heavy duty offshore spinning reel....Quantum Cabo and Daiwa BG would have gotten mentioned.

Really, you'd be better in the long run if you bite the bullet and learned how to cast a conventional reel. Especially for SoCal fishing! The Abu is fairly cheap and a very easy reel to learn to cast. The first few casts will be ugly but you will be fine in a couple of hours.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

Daiwa saltist 6500 is another option.

Thanks to all for the invaluable suggestions. Even though the Daiwa Emblem Pro EMP 5000-A (manual bail trip) is not sealed as the Penn SSV 6500 BLS (bailess), I purchased the Daiwa for a tick under $100.00. With the conventional bail it will (hopefully) serve double duty as a surf and live-bait/boat reel. Your input saved me a lot of research.
Barry, got any spare 4oz diamond jigs?

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Good luck with your purchase. Tight lines!

Let us know how it goes Mark.

It seems like you are just getting started fishing in the salt. I could offer several thousand words of advice:) No idea what your other fishing experiences have been.

I think the few I will mention are:
1) Invest in a good spring scale.
2) Test your line and knots so you know actual breaking strength. If results aren't repeatable practice on the knots until they are.
3) Once you know that, set your reel's drag at 25% of actual tested breaking strength of complete system as determined above. Reel shall be mounted on rod and hand held in a normal fish fighting way (say 45 degrees from level and spring scale several yards away secured to fixed object).
4) Practice lifting buckets of water at home so that you can judge how many pounds of pressure you are putting on rod/line/fish. Try not to bend rod more than 90 degrees. You are looking to see what the blank can handle as well as gain experience of juding how much pressure you are applying.
5) Never adjust your drag on the water, instead cup the spool to apply extra pressure once fish has worn down some. In step 4 you should have learned what your complete rig can handle and what that feels like.
6) Given that you are setting the drag at 1/4 of line strength one must consider what the rod can handle. If it can't handle full line strength you might want to step down on the pound test and get more line capacity (I want at least 250 yards but 350 would be better). Once you learn to accurately judge just how much pressure you can put on a fish you will be surprised at what you can catch with lines in the 12-20 pound class. A 100 pound tuna will sometimes win but a 100 pound sailfish rarely will.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

Russell,
I agree and have basically practiced your suggestions for the past 30 years of ocean fishing. I just never really had the opportunity to surf fish and am looking forward to rebuilding this beautiful vintage FG Conolon and having a go at it.
I am a big advocate of the FG knot and use it all the time except when having to save time and get back in the water if needing to tie a new leader when a big bite is on. It is the strongest and smallest braid to leader knot if tied properly, which does require a bit of practice. Those who do not use it should. I have learned to run my braid through the tip top and tie the tag to one of the guides and then “weave” the leader into the main line. It really helps to hold everything in place and saves quite a bit of time.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.