Ok so first off....thanks to all that chimed in on some of my last topics.
I am very happy with my first build but did learn a few things along the way.

Lessons
-take your time, there is NO reason to rush (guess I was just excited to see the finished product)
-prepare your all your guides on the grinder first instead of one at a time before you wrap
-make certain there is enough overwraps to prevent unwrapping when cutting the tag
-allow proper time for finish to dry....fingerprints are NO good

Observations
-I like size A thread better than size D
-metallic thread is a PITA

Question
-next time should I get a larger stripper guide even with the micros....can't get the ideal angle from the real to the reduction train with the #8, I am 22 inches from the reel seat.

Thanks again....Jon

I remember your post about number of guides. I had the same question a while back on here for a 7'6" baitcasting rod.

[rodbuilding.org]

You'll see Ford vs. Chevy type arguments on here, and the final answer always seems to come down to 1) your own personal preference and 2) just giving it a shot and see if you like it. My conclusion is even if its not what a pro builder would set up, the amount of care you put in your own rod probably results in a much better rod than one from the store. However, someone did post some amount of data in my thread that indicated that "extra" micros don't really affect the final weight very significantly (even with thread and epoxy?). I went with 14 total guides plus the tip top, which is what my static testing gave with my personalized reel location (what felt good with my arm's measurements) on my split grip. It was Size 6 for the stripper and 4's the rest of the way. I am not sure if having a more gradual reduction from a bigger stripper would have made much a difference in the running guide area, because I still needed more closely spaced micros where the rod bent the most. In the end, it casts awesome and feels pretty good when reeling in, so I can't complain. Spiral wrapping would have needed less guides but that was a step up in complications I did not feel like dealing with as a beginner.

Try the Robinson brand of metallic, it is a round thread as opposed to somewhat flatter threads like the old Gudebrod.

Ray Zarychta
Glastonbury, CT

Jon, when you say you're 22" from the reel seat ..... what part of the reel seat? If it's from the center of the reel seat, you may not necessarily be too close, but you could have definitely moved it out, and that will help with the angle of the line issue you're not happy with. I measure the distance for the butt guide from the face of the reel. More accurately, the face of the line guide of the reel.

I just measured the rod I built on the Immortal 72MH blank that you were talking about in one of your other threads, and from the face of the reel's line guide to the ring's frame of the butt guide, measures 21 1/4". I used a #10 Fuji CLNAG for the butt guide. I initially tried a #8 but didn't like how far out I had to move it. I can't remember the exact dimension it would have ended up, but I do remember it was over 23"

I don't know if that's excessive or not. I just know I didn't like how far from the reel it was. I will say that I am not one that tries to build the lightest rod I could possibly build. I've added 1 oz to the butt of rods to get the balance I prefer for a rod and reel combination, which is why I have no problem using a size 10 for a butt guide. Despite all the guide train suggestions I have read from members of this site that are far more knowledgeable than I am when it comes to guide trains .... I actually have used 3 double foot guides for the reduction train on all the casting rods I've built thus far. And I most likely will do so in the future. I'm just comfortable with that combination. It looks right to me.

So to answer your question ..... do you NEED a larger butt guide ...... not necessarily. Would I personally use a larger one ..... yes. And I only say that because that's what I use, not because I necessarily believe it's the best way.

Thanks Dave.....the guide is 22 from the end of the seat.
I think I will roll with this setup, I will readdress the situation on my next rod.

Jon, assuming you didn't trim down the thread barrel, that probably places the guide around 23" give or take, from the face of reel's line guide. Certainly not out of the norm for what I've read in the past.

One of these days I'm going to do some experimenting with butt guide placement, and see how far out I can move a smaller guide, and how it affects casting performance. Just to kind of see if what I think will happen, does actually happen.

I rarely use braid or regular nylon mono filament line. I'm a fluorocarbon guy. I think ..... and if anyone believes differently please feel free to set me straight, but I think with the stiffness of fluorocarbon line, keeping the guide closer is probably better than having it too far away.

Hopefully the experimenting I plan on doing some time this year will educate me one way or the other.

David,
You are one of the first fisherman who indicate that they use fluorocarbon line from the bottom of the reel to the bait.

I am happy that you are happy with the line, but I wonder how you deal with the stiffness of the line.

I assume that you are only doing this on a casting reel? I wouldn't think that one would be very happy using fluorocarbon line on a spinning reel due to the stiff nature of the typical fluorocarbon line.

Take care

I do not use fluorocarbon line, but the modern versions now available are not nearly as stifff as the older versions. They are more supple with less memory and cast and perform similarly to mono on both casting and spinning outfits. This coming from people I know that use it. I only use fluorocarbon/mono as a leader for braid.
Norm

Roger, thanks for asking. Like Norman said, newer fluorocarbon lines are different than the older ones. I use fluorocarbon line on both spinning and casting reels. The key is selecting the right line. I use Seaguar Tatsu, exclusively.

I've tried a lot of different fluorocarbon lines over the years (probably in excess of 15 different ones) and Tatsu is by far the best that I have found. There are some that are more sensitive, some that are slightly more abrasion resistant, and some that are slightly more supple, but I've found none that have the total package that Tatsu offers.

As for using fluorocarbon line on spinning gear, the number one thing, other than choosing the right line, is matching line size to spool diameter. A general rule of thumb I follow, at least for Shimano reels, is if a reel has line capacity ratings of 6, 8, and 10# test mono, the biggest fluorocarbon line I would put on it would be 8.

I currently only use 3000 series reels on the spinning rods I have. I have used 10# Tatsu on those reels with very little problem. I realize that size reel is rated for a high of 10# test mono, but Tatsu is such an extraordinary line, that it presents very little problems. I currently use 8# test Tatsu on them and have no more problem with it than I would if I were using regular nylon mono.

I love me some Tatsu !!!



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 12/24/2016 04:16AM by David Baylor.

David,
From a pure numbers standpoint, do you think you are catching more fish by using this line?

Roger, that's a tough question to answer. I've been using fluorocarbon line for years. If you're asking if I catch more fish because of fluorocarbon's advertised lower visibility, then I'd have to say probably not. But I don't use fluorocarbon because of its lower visibility. To me that's just a benefit. Kind of like I've fallen in love with MVT reel seats. Not because they're necessarily better than a similar type of reel seat. But they sure are prettier.

I use fluorocarbon line for its increased sensitivity. Its higher abrasion resistance, Its smaller diameter per comparable size in nylon or co polymer lines. It's density. And the fact that quality fluorocarbon lines like Tatsu, don't lose any of what I feel are its advantages, just because it got wet. For those reason, then yes I think I catch more fish with fluorocarbon line, than I would with a regular mono or co polymer line.

That doesn't mean I think fluorocarbon line doesn't have disadvantages. The way it handles is definitely a disadvantage over other more manageable lines. And the fact that once you severely stretch fluorocarbon line, it stays stretched for the most part. That fact costs you impact strength. And impact strength comes in real handy on a hook set. lol

Anyhow .... I don't have the problem with fluorocarbon that most people have. Or maybe I just expect and therefore deal with its idiosyncrasies better than some.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/24/2016 10:19AM by David Baylor.