Hello everyone!

I am curious to know if other people here use some tip top adhesive to "stick" their guides in place before wrapping them, and what are the "cons," if any, of using such a technique? It sure would be nice to have an easy way to keep the guides in place while wrapping them, but I don't want to do anything that might otherwise "compromise" some aspect of the build.

Thanks for your input.

Best,
Gib

It is not tip top adhesive, which is a high temperature melt adhesive, but rather guide foot adhesive which is a low melt adhesive. Two different things! It does a good job of holding your guide in place while wrapping and It will allow you to move your guide for alignment after wrapping. It is not strong enough to hold your guides in position for static testing. I have use this stuff when wrapping extremely small micro guides, and it worked well. There are a ton of different methods for holding guides in place this just one of many. I have attached the Flex coat video on how to use it. This was previously shown in one of your other posts.
[www.flexcoat.com]
Norm

Norm's comments are spot on correct.

The sole additional item to note is easy does it with the guide foot adhesive if you are going for translucent wraps. You want just enough adhesive to hold the guide in place until you get several turns of thread up the foot. What you don't want is gobs of glue oozing out from under the guide foot.

Gib,
I was expecting to view some negative reply posts concerning guide foot adhesive as seen and discussed previously. Norman and Donald are correct (as usual) and I will add the adhesive can act, somewhat, like an underwrap to cushion the blank from the guides. How effective it is as an underwrap may be arguable, but it can’t hurt. Heat up the guide foot with a heat gun and quickly wipe the foot lightly on the adhesive. I use it for all my guides in conjunction with the guide alignment / mounting fixture I built for my self-fabricated wrapper. I tape the guide onto the fixture, heat up the foot, pivot the guide onto the blank, and I am done. The guides are within 0.005in each and every time with no need to readjust later.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Mark.....got some pictures of this contraption? Sounds cool!

It just doesn't make sense to me to put glue on the underside of the guide foot. Something to get in the way and potentially leave debris behind that is difficult to remove.

Thin masking tape - 1/8th inch works for most guides. If working on very fine tipped ice rods and micro guides, I will use ortho bands to hold the guide in place while wrapping.

Be safe

I would love to see / hear more about your guide alignment / mounting fixture.

Aha! I just looked at your photo gallery and saw you rod securing fixture, along with the note that you aren't showing the alignment / mounting fixture because of potential commercial interest. It sounds cool. I hope you are successful with your endeavor!



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/20/2016 04:44PM by Gib Portwood.

Gib,
HAPPY HOLIDAYS to you and yours.
At the risk of sounding boastful or conceited, the wrapper and guide alignment / mounting fixture work flawlessly each time, every time, and repeatable if a guide gets knocked off prior to wrapping. There really is nothing similar commercially available. The only thing I would (and will) change is a larger motor to accommodate shaping cork grips. The present motor will do it but it is being over-worked. While less time is required to mount guides, the real benefit is ending up with all of them aligned within 0.005in of each other, even if the blank is warped as can be the case with these old, vintage FG ones (new ones as well) with which I have become fascinated. My original cost estimate of $250-$300 evaporated early on within the project, and now have over $500 invested in material, plus a week of machining on a buddy’s mill, two weeks of drawing each part on graph paper with plotted measurements for the mill, and acquiring parts and assembly. I would not have undertaken the project if not certain I wanted to wrap rods.
May I suggest, and please consider, purchasing an inexpensive, manual wrapper and 9 RPM drying motor/fixture. Other than the occasional tiger-wrap or single color under wrap, I rarely use the power head of my wrapper for anything other than drying. I attempt to avoid burnishing and the accompanying fuzzies and pack, pack, pack throughout the wrap. I will be purchasing a triple rod dryer from Mud Hole because I can’t build one for the same cost. That will allow me to free-up my wrapper for the next build while the previous one is on the dryer.
To recap and conclude, see how excited you and/or Jr. are/is after your first (or 2, or 6) build(s) before spending money needlessly if not wastefully. If either of you decide to dive-in-the-deep-end as many of us have, and you just got-to-have the best wrapper, then contact me. Hopefully you have access to a mill or have a good-‘ol-best-friend who is a machinist. At the risk of sounding rude, you might not be able to afford me to build one for you.
Again, I congratulate you on a job well done with your son. Too many kids are too preoccupied with their cell phones and video games to use their brain and learn how to build something, which will trickle-down throughout the rest of their lives. You have a lucky son!
Sincerely,
Mark T.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.