Gents, I just finished wrapping all the guides on my first rod. Before I apply finish, I'm thinking through what I need to do before I apply finish. A question.....is there a good way to trim off the nubs of the tag ends that didn't get buried or didn't get cut flush with the wrap? Secondly, I ended up with some 3-4 wrap trim bands at the end of each guide wrap using what I think is called the nail knot to tie. I've pulled the tag ends tight but have not trimmed them flush yet. When I do trim them flush, what's the possibility that they loosen when I apply the finish?

Any comments would be appreciated. Thanks guys.

For future job over wrap your pull through much more.
I install it 3/8" - 1/2" from what will be end of the wrap.
Cut tag end off close and pulloyd through .
You will never have nubs.
Now you need a scalpel- separate wrap slightly and cut thread against blank - pull tag end through.
Can't comment re trim.
But that should be done differently also.

Larry if you have CP use the end of a needle, sharp toothpick, etc. to lightly touch your knot with just a dap of CP, let it dry 15 min. or so and when you trim the ends it won't unravel. If you don't have CP water based urethane will work, you just want some on the knot, not all over.

Everyone will have nubs sooner or later.

Re the nail knot, if you are NOT going to use CP, then a good way to fasten the nail knot down is to put just a tad, just a minimal drop of UV curing epoxy (same process as recommended with CP) onto the place where the two threads are together. Zap it with the UV light, then trim. Be sure to pack them before you finish. The advantage of this over CP is that if you don't want to use CP on the wrap, this will not "contaminate" the wrap with CP. This does not work if you are going to use CP since it will change the color of the thread where the drop is deposited. The CP recommendation is the way to go if you plan CP on the wrap. If you do nothing with a 3 thread nail knot, it most likely will not hold. Maybe it will with 4 without this process of stabilizing it.

Re the nubs, since I always use at least two coats of wrap epoxy, I just put the first coat on then cut the nubs off with a sharp Exacto knife before giving it the second coat. You'll never see the nub.

X2 what Michael suggested. Additionally, if the trim “nubs” are a different color than the base wrap, purchase a multi-colored assortment of fine-tip Sharpies. While the Sharpie color will bleed, if you do not get carried away with the touch-up, they will hide a multitude of sins.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Some advice from a rookie. I get nubs. Not always. But often enough to have come up with a way to deal with them. I use two coats of finish. For the first coat, I apply enough to cover the thread. Then use a heat lamp to warm it up. Then, with the rod spinning, i brush away as much finish as i can, wiping the brush on a coffee filter. After this first, bare minimum coat has cured for half a day, a fresh single edge razor blade makes short work of the nubs. I have found you can leave it overnight, and trim the nubs the next day. Then apply the final coat of finish.

All good stuff. Thanks guys!!

When I go to trim a thread, I use a pair of Dr. Slicks fly tying scissors. I pull the thread very tight and then lay the scissors tight against the wrap and snip the thread. Generally very little if any thread nib remains.

The final step that I do, after wrapping and aligning guides is to run an alcohol burner over the wraps as I rotate the rod. This both tends to shrink the thread, as well as to melt the nib ends of any exposed thread.

I almost never have to do any thing more with respect to having any exposed thread ends, because they are almost never there. But, if there is any thread nib, I cut it off with a scalpel - held parallel to the thread before I add any additional thread coating.

Good luck

Ive always wondered if an electric shaver would work for this application. I do not use one, and I really don't want to buy one just to experiment, because I won't use it on my face.

Has anybody tried it?

Gary, some would say great minds think alike. So while I was waiting on info from this forum on my original question, I gave it a shot with an electric razor. Worked, meh just OK. It did trim down some of the nubs but I think the thread is too soft to get in the grooves of the razor.

I trim the tag ends of the pull-through by laying a scalpel flat on the wrap and touch the tag to the blade. It's ridiculous how sharp those are. There could still be a little nib, but don't worry about that. You might have some other fuzzies in the thread and don't worry about that either. I do a thin first coat of Threadmaster lite finish and don't be bothered by nibs sticking up or dry spots. After the first coat cures overnight trim all the little nibs sticking up. My second coat is regular build TM and all the imperfections disappear.

I also do trim with the nail knot method. I always use CP, so I just dab a spot of CP on the knot and pull tight and hold for a few minutes. After an hour or so I go back and trim the tags. Again, with the scalpel all you gotta do is lightly touch the tag.

John Shear
Chippewa Falls, WI