There have been a number of previous posts regarding peel-and-stick decals and their tendency for the edges to lift after thread epoxy is applied resulting in quite a few methods to eliminate the problem. I must have been lucky with the first few as no issues were encountered until attempting to speed up the curing time by placing the rod, thread finish about ¾ cured, in my composite oven at 120 degrees. While still useable, if I have light reflecting just right on the finish surface, I can detect one part of the decal edge wanting to lift.
Many of you have developed and shared very good methods of applying decals, the use of CP, pre-forming to the rod diameter, thread wrapping overnight and others. I utilized all of your gracious sharing to develop my method which has worked exceptionally well for the last dozen or so. I do not care for CP in general but liked the idea of thread wrapping the decal overnight, except for the possibility of leaving indentations in the decal from the thread. Admittedly, I never actually used thread to wrap the decal and the indentations would probably not show through the epoxy finish. First and foremost, I trim the decal close to the image in a curved fashion to avoid any sharp corners. Using the wrapping theory, I cut 1/2in wide strips of 2 or 3 mil regular plastic sheeting, tape one end to the rod, tightly spiral wrap over the decal overlapping half of each strip, tape down the end and let set overnight. A substantial amount of constrictive force can be applied but I still use the back of my fingernail as well. Even with the porosity of these vintage FG blanks, I have had no problems. But I DO keep them out of the composite oven!
Hope it helps someone. After all, many of you have helped me!

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

A way to get the same effect as a thread wrap without any ridges from the thread is to wrap the area with tightly pulled/stretched electrical tape OVER AN INSULATING SHEET OF THIN PAPER.

If you have minor lifting after epoxy you usually can sand that off and apply another coat. The decal won't come off and the edge will be hidden. If the decal is printed on white media, if you sand through to the media it will show white.

This topic is a constant one, coming up every few months. Lots of thread can be found with a search.

I have been building rods for years using Decal Connection Peel & Stick labels and have never had an edge lift, even slightly.

My process is to apply a thin coat of wrap epoxy on the blank surface, then wait just until it will no longer finger print, then apply the label, and burnishing it well before lifting the cover sheet. I then can apply the covering coat at once or later.

I use a small rubber roller to "burnish" the decal to the blank, and then apply a coat of Krylon fixatiff. Always works for me! (The roller has a name, but I can't recall it - it's used in relation to transfer printing etc.)
Rog

Thanks for the replies in hope of assisting others plagued with decal issues.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Flex Coat CP over a decal (or Madiera) prevents finish problems. Simple as that. Chromaseal doesn't work well for that since it doesn't seem to have to adhesive properties that FC does. I do, however, prefer Chromaseal on threads because it soaks in better, thus less prone to blotching.

John Shear
Chippewa Falls, WI

Use a rubber roller, Also called a brayer to roll over the decal.
I then apply CP around the edges. I have some that I know wont stick well and I use I light coat
of clear top coat fingernail polish around the edges. No issues yet.

I just got my decals today from Decal Connection. I'm going to have to try out some of these processes on my next rod.