Two questions have been bothering me for a while now. I was told when I started building rods that I should liquid fill the reel seats with epoxy because masking tape rots out and isn't a good way to build a rod. Then I spoke to another builder that says masking tape lasts forever and doesn't rot out. Does anyone have a diffinitive answer on this?

Also I was told to stay away from 5, 10, 15 minute epoxies because they are not as strong or last as long as slow cure epoxies. ? Any thoughts on that as well?

Thanks mike

Masking Tape will work fine if the space is not to large, I prefer dry wall tape instead of masking tape in this case. The holes in the dry wall tape allows the epoxy to seep down to the blank giving a very strong bond. I usually tack the edge of the dry wall tape to the blank with super glue before wrapping it on the blank. This prevents the tape from sliding when the reel seat is slid into place. For larger spaces I prefer to glue foam arbors into the reel seat and then ream to fit he blank after the glue sets. Slow cure and fast cure epoxies are plenty strong enough for gluing seats in place. The Major difference between the is working time. I hate getting half way through gluing and have the epoxy set up. I use slow cure liquid and paste epoxies almost exclusively. They give you plenty of time to make adjustments.
Norm.

Masking tape is not the best solution. If it get wet it will fall apart. Buy a roll of mesh drywall tape it will not fall apart when wet. A large roll will build about a 100 rods.
Some epoxy is better than others, but I've used varied 15 min. gel epoxies from the people on the left and have never had a grip failure.

Filling the spaces between tape with epoxy makes the rod heavier than it needs to be. A thin film of epoxy on a bushing or arbor to reel seat is the preferred method for best adhesion, strength and lightest weight. Not gobs of epoxy.

Brick foam arbors are lighter and quicker to assemble than rolling bands of masking tape. If you do use tape, you don't need to fill the spaces between the bands, but you should apply some epoxy to the sides of the tape bushings to seal them.

..............

Mike

Best reel seat bushing material is graphite arbors. It will not compress and delivers maximum sensitivity. Downside is the graphite dust generated when reaming to fit the blank is the devil's own mess. I've taken the pledge and will not use one again.

A urethane bushing is a very close second to graphite, it is light, and the reaming dust is not quite so obnoxious. And urethane is the only way to fly when there is a large space to fill.

Then there are tape bushings with the dry wall tape at the head of the tape class for the reason Norm noted above.

And finally there is the old standby, masking tape arbors. The tape centers the reel seat on the blank and supports the epoxy filets between the blank and the seat while the epoxy cures. If done correctly, there should be minimal risk of failure as the epoxy filets encapsulate the tape. At least I sure hope so because there are a bunch of my rods out there with masking tape bushings and epoxy filets.

With regard to epoxy cure time vs strength, I've no idea, have successfully used 5 and 15 minute epoxy, and now use 15 minute because I've a bad habit of assembling reel seats and forgetting a component (as in the ring or hood or cork check for a fly rod reel seat - very embarrassing).

Mike

I make my bushings (arbor) from hard wood, After I machine the OD and the ID to a snug fit I drill holes radially along the length to make the arbor lighter. I use a thin application of 2 part epoxy to bond the components to the blank. I know this is a lot of work and may be considered an overkill but for me "time is not money" and gives me peace of mind..

I recently cut apart a reel seat from a rod I assembled over 20 years ago (the rod was beyond repair) and the wood arbor was as fresh as the day I installed it.

As you can see from the other posts there are many ways to fill the gap between the reel seat and the blank. Experiment and find a method that you are confident with.

John

Mike,
Very few addressed your question regarding epoxy strength vs. cure time. Basically, and I stress basically, an epoxy which offers slow, medium and fast hardeners will exhibit the highest ultimate strength utilizing the slow hardener. That is not to say inferior slow-cure epoxies are stronger than quality fast-cure epoxies. Within a given brand of epoxy, the slower cure will produce an ultimately stronger bond. “Ultimate” is the key word here as often a higher tensile strength rating will be more brittle and possibly not ultimately as durable.
Tape arbors (I cut mine to less than 1/8in) are inexpensive and virtually infinitely adjustable. If the gap is greater than 0,060in, I add micro spheres to the epoxy to reduce the weight of the epoxy by more than 75%, lighter than graphite or urethane arbors without the need or hassle to ream.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

I prefer slower curing epoxy over fast. I don't have to rush to mix and apply and then clean up any drips,etc. The mixing is the most important part. If you rush that IMO the finished product can be compromised. Also mix on a flat surface like tin foil, cardboard, etc so the heat can be dispersed when the two parts activate. As far as arbors I use the old masking tape. Haven't had any problems with it yet. I do like the dry wall tape idea and may try that.

mike,

As for epoxies, in IMHO, U-40 Rod Bond is much easier to us and much stronger than the 5, 10 or 15 minute epoxies for gluing reel seats. It is available in slow cure or fast cure and stays where it is applied. As for reel seat arbors, I prefer the graphite arbors.

Don Campbell
don@sensorfishingrods.com

Mark, your use of micro spheres is brilliant, thx for the idea!

Mark - where do you get your microspheres? I have made molds using Alumilite products and they sell this product. Is it anywhere near what you use.
[www.alumilite.com]
Norm

Actually, thousands of rods are built every year using masking tape arbors that hold up just fine for the life of the rod.

If you put a thin space between the rows of masking tape arbor and let epoxy fill the space, the masking tape is completely enclosed by epoxy and will be sealed for the life of the rod.

The one difference between a 5 minute epoxy and a 2 hour epoxy, is that generally speaking the 5 minute epoxy is a touch less flexible than the 2 hour epoxy. But many many builders use only 5 minute epoxy for all of their building with 0 issues over the life of the rod.

Good luck

What's a microsphere? Where can I get them? Thanks everybody

I would strongly recommend using a slightly flexible purpose-made epoxy such as Rod Bond for securing the reel seat. I would not worry a bit about adding weight there because it is located so close to the caster's hand, which is the fulcrum of the rod during the cast. This means added weight will have an infinitesimal effect upon the rod's swing weight, which is really what savvy fly anglers worry about when they talk about the effects of rod weight.

Mike,
Here you go - the link for microballoons:

[www.google.com]

Mike,
Roger afforded a number of sources for micro balloons. I usually purchase mine through Aircraft Spruce while picking up other composite supplies, but just about any business carrying structural epoxies for the composite industry will have micro balloons, mill fiber, silica and such. While micro balloons are generally not recommended for bonding due to weakening the epoxy, for this purpose it is far above adequate. By the way, I also use the micro balloons in ProPaste and am confident it would perform as well with Rod Bond.
Micro spheres / balloons are incredibly small (I can’t measure them), extremely thin-walled spheres made of glass or phenolic resin (similar to FG resin) designed to thicken, and consequently, lighten structural epoxies to make filler / faring and fillet compounds. Being round and so tiny, they feel similar to graphite powder when rubbed between your fingers. A word of caution; Always use at least a particle mask when using as, no matter how careful one is, the micro balloons are so small and light they float all over the place. And don’t spill them on the floor unless you want to slip on your keester!
While Eric is indeed correct with his “Swing weight” issue which may be the layman’s term for “Polar moment of inertia”, it seems so many builders and anglers are so weight conscious that saving a few grams is a big deal. Although I may personally be rather numb to feel the difference, I utilize micro balloons simply because I can!
Norman, I am unfamiliar with “Alumilite”. I am guessing it is some type epoxy with aluminum powder added for strength when used for thicker applications.
Paul, glad I could help someone after receiving so much help myself from this site.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Thanks for the info. Alumilite company has nothing to do with aluminum or epoxy. They specialize in products for making molds and various casting resins for the molds. I have used their products for duplicating and making various types of fishing lures, The microballoons they sell are designed to be mixed with casting resins to change their density, i.e. sinking to floating lures. Here is a link in case anyone wants make their own lures or other things.
[www.makelure.com]
Norm