Ok guys. I'm new to this, but love to fish so want to build my own rods.

Could someone just explain when it is appropriate to use A vs D thread? Probably so simple that no one ever talks about it. I plan on building light saltwater rods.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/17/2016 05:26PM by Marlon Rovira.

Marlon,
If you like, you can use all size A thread and have good luck.

However, especially for rail rods, most folks will use at least one layer of thread D for the wear factor of the thicker thread.

Many folks who build salter water rods, use one coat of size A thread for an underwrap and then size D for an overwrap.

Be safe

A

In most cases it does not matter, it comes down to a personal choice. Both give a very strong wrap which look good. Size A gives a nice smooth wrap where individual threads are hard to see, but size D thread is easier to wrap. If you are using regular thread without color preserver, the epoxy finish will darken both but make the size A thread more transparent than D, which may allow the guide foot to show through. Color preserver or no CP threads avoids this and maintains more of the original color. Some people will only use one or the other, others will use A on light to medium rods and D on medium to heavy rods. For trim wraps most will use size A. For a beginner size D is a good choice because of ease of use. Prowrap thread also comes in an intermediate B size.
Norm

A is always the safe bet, but D can be easier to use. D, being thicker, climbs ups guide's feet easier and covers more area in less wraps. Packed well in a black thread and it is hard to see the difference after finish is applied. But yes, it does weigh a tad more.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

Norm,

Thanks for the great answer. Is it OK to mix the if doing trim work? Just made first rod. Came out nice, but at my age (70) the stuff is hard to see......even with loops. Glad to hear that can use Size D on lighter rods. Also didn't know about Size B.

Thanks,
Marlon

Russel,

Glad to hear that the difference can't be seen if applied and packed properly!!

Yes you can mix A with D when doing trim wraps. I just turned 71 last week so I know what you mean about things being harder to see. Thankfully I have been doing this for a long time so it is almost second nature. It would be much more difficult it I was just starting this hobby. So I give you a lot of credit for doing so.
Norm

Marlon,
Do yourself a favor when building rods.

1. Have lots and lots and lots and lots of light.

2. Have lots and lots and lots of magnification.

I have a very brightly light shop with florescent fixtures, spaced every 4 feet.

But, in addition, I have a 50 watt halogen swing light that I keep about 6 inches from the rod being wrapped to give many lumens of light on the blank and the rod.

In addition, I wear single vision computer glasses that are calibrated for 28 inches. Then, I also use a 2X head band mounted magnifier. With the use of the single vision computer glassess and the 2x magnifier, the computer glasses and magnifier give me a range of vision of about 8-9 inches which is a nice distance to work with - with respect to my head, body and hand position.

I use a very inexpensive head band mounted magnifier similar to this one:

[www.amazon.com]

It comes with lenses to change the magnificatiaon from 1.5 up to 3.5X power.

I used a magnifier and very good lighting from the very first rod that I built a long time ago. I couldn't imagine building a rod without magnification. So easy to see the individual wraps, isolate problem areas, and able to pick up specs of lint or dust that might contaminate a great build.

I use a swing arm lamp similar to this one - except that the one that I use, uses either a halogen, or an LED bulb with an appropriate transformer.

I set the lamp on the upside down bottom of a 3 lb coffee tin, which is just the right size for the base, and the elevation sets the base of the lamp at the same level as my rods on the power wrapper and thus give me maximum flexibility for light adjustment.

Depending on whether one is right or left handed, one wants to set up his task lighting so that the hand working the rod does not cause a shadow from the lamp being in the wrong position. If in doubt, try positioning the lamp on either side of your working hand and use the side that gives the least shadow to your rod while wrapping.

When one looks up lighting design, one finds that a good work set up for doing very detailed work, like rod wrapping should use a general moderate bright lumen level in the general area, but then a task light right at the work area that is several times brighter than the general room area. This way, one can look up from time to time to rest ones eyes and just glance around the room in general with its softer room lighting.

Good luck

Roger,

Thanks. Luv it!!

I have been using ProWrap size 'B' for a while now, and really like it. It is easy to work with and the color selection is good. It also plays nice with other threads like size 'A' metallics.

A for unders D for overs. Unless a light saltwater spinner, then A for everything. 95% of my builds are saltwater.

Roger is right on. I have a similar set up, but I use Optivisors. One is a 7.5 diopter and the other is a 10 diopter. The 10 diopter isn't as useful because item depth of focus is too small.
Mike Blomme

Ok Capt Craig,

This brings up another question. Do you use over and under wraps solely for strength on heavier rods, or do you use then for decorative purposes also on lighter rods??

Everyone with experience please share your thoughts????????

Marlon

Marlon, a lot of us grew up thinking most salt water rods should have under wraps and double foot guides. It was a look we were accustomed to and probably felt it was a mark of quality.

I can tell you up to about 30# class there is no need at all and the difference is quite noticable. IMHO you want to use the lighest guide train that is suitable for the fishing at hand. That includes all the wraps and finish. I have no concerns fishing alconite single foot fly rod guides, with no under wraps, for the running guides, on spinning rods suited for your needs.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

Thanks Russ. Great info

Thanks Russ. Great info

Admittedly, previous responders may have more experience have than I do. I use D thread for everything but underwraps, trout to tuna rods. Underwraps are A or B thread to help to minimize the heaver D thread overwrap from following or climbing up the underwrap and, as mentioned for 30lb and heaver applications. Most of my wraps are rather subtlebly intricate and the D thread tends to display those better. As mentioned before, the larger D is easier to work with (I’m also approaching vintage years at 63), is obviously and inherently stronger, and do not concern myself with the minimal, at best, additional weight. I also minimize my thread epoxy to solely serve its purpose rather than create a thick magnifying lens.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Thanks Mark,

Great info

I was taught that putting a layer of A thread down will help protect the blank a bit. Not sure if that is true but is what I was taught. On the heavier saltwater rods I use A thread as an under for that reason and also for decorative purposes. A double or single layer of D as the over depending on the style of rod and again it can be used for decorative purposes, but for most of my builds I use black D as the over.

On the lighter rods, 6-12, 8-14, 10-20, I do not use under wraps. This is the hypocrisy of how I was taught. If an under wrap protects the blank on a heavy rod, one would think it would do the same on a lighter rod. Go figure, LOL. On lighter rods I usually use single foot guides and no under wrap. But do use A thread as overs on the guides.

On the same topic, I have read a few times where some folks believe A thread, although thinner, is better as an overwrap as you can get more thread on the guide foot to help hold it. If that makes since. So for argument sake, say a guide foot is X long. Using D thread, you get say 14 wraps on the guide foot. The same guide foot would take say 28 wraps of A thread. Not sure if the math is right but I think the point is made. Do not know if this theory is true, but I have read about a few times.

For me, the system I use works so I will continue to do A unders on big/heavy rods with D overs and just A overs on the smaller/lighter ones.