Hi All,

Im building my first 2pc rod. The rod it 9ft long and rate for 1/2-2 oz. the top half of the rod slides over the bottom. Do you guys add a wrap to the female end of the top half for support at the joint? If so, how much?



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/09/2016 10:28AM by Will Cooper.

1 1/2 to 2 times the diameter of the ferrule is a good rule of thumb, get the wrap as close to the edge as you can, failures will start there first, if you are going to have one.

I agree with Spencer. Many rod manufacturers suggest that ferrule wraps are not necessary, but I think they are a good insurance policy that does not hurt and may help.
Norm

Will

Congratulations on your first two piece. A female ferrule wrap with a length at least 1 1/2 times the female ferrule diameter is as Norman wrote the best insurance you can buy.

There are aesthetic considerations (no right or wrong just personal preference) for the ferrule reinforcement wraps. One is length relative to guide wraps. Sometimes it is more pleasing to make the ferrule wrap equal to the nearby guide wraps provided of course the ferrule wrap length would then be not less than 1 1/2 times the diameter of the female ferrule. If you have trim wraps on the guides you might add the same trim to the ferrule wrap. Experiment a bit and do what is pleasing to your eye.

For your next rod, think about making the ferrule wrap, even if it is a temporary wrap, before locating guides and static testing their locations. I've only had 1 rod ferrule fail during a build and I suspect the ferrule was flawed before I started the build. Nonetheless, a temporary ferrule wrap means you can static test to your heart's content with reduced risk of damaging the blank in the process.

I always use a wrap at the joint. I simply make the wrap 1/2 inch long.

Be safe

Perfect guys, thx for the tips

Donald, if a ferrule is so fragile that it will break during the static testing, I would rather have it fail then rather than possibly later, with a wrap as a "crutch" to postpone the failure but not eliminate it. No blank should fail during static testing with or without a wrap (if it is properly assembled). The warranty will cover it, and you will not have a lot of time or materials committed to the build at that point. I could be wrong, but that's how I see it.

Some companies require a reinforcement wrap while others do not. You should check with the mfg to determine if your blank requires one. If so, apply it before static testing.

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Although tastes differ, a ferrulled rod without a reinforcement wrap looks kind of incomplete IMHO

The female ferrule diameter is 1/2in. So ill do a 3/4in wrap just to be on the safe side.

Will

A final tip; make the ferrule wrap terminate as close to the end of the ferrule as you can. In a perfect world the ferrule stresses would be distributed evenly over the length of the ferrule. In the real world the stress tends to be greater at the butt end of the female ferrule.

I planned to start my wrap at the butt end of the female end for the ferrule. I figure this will allow me to get the wrap right up to the edge without having to worry about the whip Finnish at the end messing anything up.

The reason it is important to get the wrap close to the edge of the ferrule, is that this is the only place where a "split-out" can start. If you prevent a split-out, the ferrule won't otherwise fail.

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Other thing to keep in mind, if you want to hide your transition from one section yo another at thr ferrule joint . You can make it almost invisible when rod is assembled, common practice here in Canada wirh long centerpin rods. Use nylon thread of the same color as blank, nylon with no color preservative. Do your ferrule wrap as long as you need or want. Then just cover with layers of epoxy of your choise. If color of threat matches color of the blank the ferrule joints will be virtually invisible. You may have to experiment with different colours if using coloured blank, but black nylon usually works for any black or unfinished blank. Also, might be contrary to what others said, i found that going from the tip end toward the opening end of ferrule gets me wraps almost on the edge of he ferrule without any part of blank exposed.

Just as a safety measure, you might try the following:

Take a piece of wax paper and put a couple of wraps around the lower portion of the rod, and then put the two rod pieces together.
Make sure that the wax paper extends past the lower portion of the joint.

If a person happens to slip when applying finish, the finish gets on the wax paper and not on the other portion of the rod which may tend to stick the rod pieces together.

Be safe