I am interested in learning about abalone inlays. I have researched it quite a bit and have ordered the issue of rodmaker magazine that has the article Kevin Knox wrote, but that is about all the info I
can find. Also, I wanted to get the best abalone sheets I can.
Any information on the would greatly appreciated !


Thanks,
Jon Hood

Jon Hood

Mudhole used to have the sheets and a video or two on applying them. Have looked lately. If I remeber right it's a different approach.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/27/2016 03:55PM by Spencer Phipps.

yes, I looked at those videos, but I would like some in depth info from someone that possibly specializes in the abalone inlay. Maybe the procedure hasn't changed since Kevin did his article.

Jon Hood

I actually found some info that mentioned a CD tutorial, but I can't find where to buy it.

Jon Hood

Order your Abalone from Kevin,It is the Best And ask him for info. It is really easy using his material

Order your Abalone from Kevin,It is the Best And ask him for info. It is really easy using his material

Order your Abalone from Kevin,It is the Best And ask him for info. It is really easy using his material

I have emailed him requesting information as well as price and availability of some veneers, but I haven't heard from him. Is he still doing business?

Jon Hood

Yes, but he's pretty busy building rods and fishing tournaments.

ok, Thanks Ken. I will wait to hear from him.

Jon Hood

However,
I would still like to hear responses and recommendations from everyone else!

Jon Hood

I have been using the boiling water method, Video can be found on Mud hole's page with abalone.
After the cutting abalone to size (cut so there is about an 1/8 inch overlap) soak for 10 to 15 min peal off the backing and apply to the rod using a thread burnisher.
Next warp the abalone with thread or twine to smooth down the edges and wait an 1 hour or more for the adhesive to set. finally remove twine and epoxy 2 or more coats as needed.

Thanks Eddie,
I assume the 1/8 " overlap is kind of absorbed in the finish like when you finish an open diamond or chevron?

Jon Hood

Cut ,Soak in Boiled water 10 -15 mins untill entire back it saturaed. Peel and apply using thumbs to apply presure while slowly rotating rod.when finished I wrap it with a Sacrifical thread for 24 Hours

yes the overlap kinda disappears.

Anyone have any experience with the materials from aqua blue Maui?

Jon Hood

I THINK that is the same material that Kevin uses / sells.

I boil mine until back is fully saturated which you have to check because you boil it back side down so as not to burn your abalone. I apply it still still warm and go slowly. Then wrap with thread for a while to help it set. Oh someone already this above

ok, so I assume you boil it until there is a visual change in the backing on the veneer- basically it should look saturated- right? Then, peal backing off and apply the veneer to the rod blank going slowly and using my fingers only. Then, wrap with thread until the veneer has fully cooled back to room temperature. Remove thread, put on the end wraps, apply finish.

Sound right?

Where do you guys get your MOP abalone veneers from? I have emailed Kevin twice, but still haven't heard anything from him. Does anyone have another source recommendation for the top grade
Veneers?

Thanks,
Jon

Jon Hood

Jon -
Yes, you have it down = boil until all the backing is darkened; peel off backing & apply the veneer (it will be HOT on your fingers). You may find it helpful to reheat the veneer with a heat gun on mid-temp setting if the veneer doesn't conform easily. Do not overly worry about cracking of the veneer as it will be virtually unnoticeable once the epoxy is applied. Definitely overwrap with sacrificial thread & allow to sit for 2-3 hours before removing it.

Kevin just completed day 2 of an inshore tournament today. I dropped him an IM to let him know you want to get in touch.