I recently decided to expand my horizons and try new things should I become old and set in my ways, so I decided to try a new brand of wrap finish. I've been on this board for 3 years now and I've read every post made since then, and almost all that have ever been made. A lot of them have had to do with finish yellowing. I have been using a certain brand of finish since I ran out of Clemen's Crystal Coat. (So as you can tell I've been doing this awhile), and have been very happy with it. In all this time, never have I read a report of finish that looks yellow in the bottom of an aluminum beverage can used for mixing after it has set overnight without ever having been exposed to sunlight. If you put this stuff on a white blank you'd be very disappointed. This finish comes highly touted and is on the sponsor list to the left. I'm not naming names or trying to upset anyone, but I can't believe I'm the only one to ever have experienced this. The first guy who needs to say "well maybe you got an old batch" need not comment. If you find something you like, stay with it. Lynn

All epoxies will yellow, in the bottles or on the rod, after a period of time. And typically, the more UV inhibitors they contain, the more yellow they will be.

.............

Comments deleted.



Edited 4 time(s). Last edit at 09/30/2016 04:51PM by John E Powell.

Thanks for the responses guys, and John I did see and read the results of the test you mentioned. My finish was brand new just opened, and was measured with syringes. I understand all finishes will yellow over time. 24hrs. is a little too soon for me, especially when it's sitting in the dark. As they say fool me once..... Thanks , Lynn

My experience has been that the degree of yellowing with the two biggest brands of wrap epoxy both showing a little yellow in the bottle (it's in the hardener bottle, right? One or the other is yellow, one is clear) (new or a year old, doesn't matter) does not show yellow on white blanks for the near term. I have a rod about 4 years old which has seen a week of Costa Rica sun + a little more and the white looks as good as new. What happens after that I don't know. But don't assume that new "yellowish" wrap epoxy will show yellow on a white blank when it is put on.

It's not a perfect world, but maybe not as imperfect as you think.

The "yellow" you see in the bottle is often the UV inhibitor additive (which is not always intended to keep the finish from yellowing, but rather from degrading in UV light).

.............

Tom is exactly right on the UV finish. I have a six month old quart of Flex Coat Ultra V and it is already so yellow that I won't use it on anything other than black thread on a black rod.

Correct me if I am wrong but you are looking at the remainder of epoxy left in the aluminum can. I think that the thickness of the left over finish will show yellow more so than a thin coat on a rod.

It will. Beer in a glass is amber or yellow, but spill it and the thin layer is mostly clear. Thickness of the epoxy in the mix cup or bottle compounds the effect.

.............

Mel, you made me curious so I removed both remaining finishes from the bottom of each can. My original finish measures 3.7mm at the thickest point, the new brand of finish which appears much more yellow to me, measures 2.5mm thick. The original, while not perfectly water clear is significantly better than the other. Michael, if you're still watching this, what are the 2 biggest selling brands of wrap finish? Thanks for all replies guys. Lynn

Didn't mention by name, but the ones I use are Pro Wrap and Flex Coat. Both the light, not the heavy, and most often I use two coats.

Thought by using names my comments might be deleted.

As far as yellowing is concerned, I have found that Aftcote and Threadmaster yellow less than others I have tried, and I have tried almost all current brands and some that are no longer on the market. I tend to mostly use Threadmaster because it sets faster than Aftcote, is very durable and more forgiving. But each their own, some just yellow more than others., but they all work well.
Norm

OK fine Have you ever seen a car LOOK yellow ?? Most are paint and then a clear over -------- I would think the clear does not yellow ????? You can get it in smaller containers Learn how to mix Learn the drying times according to temps Yea old Google search Klass Kote one to take a look at Don't ask Buy it try it make your own conclusions

Bill - willierods.com

When I'm on a rodbuilding forum sponsored by rod finish providers, I expect the conversation to discuss products marketed to rod builders as wrap finish. I realize there are other products out there that may work as well or even better however, the original post regards rod finish. Not car paint. We've danced around this topic long enough. If it starts out yellow its only gonna get yellower! Is that even a word?!

I should have said Pro-Kote, as everyone by now has figured out. The 4 yeare old rod with the white ramps that still look as good as new, white, was done with Pro-Kote. And in the mixing cup it had an amber hue.

Bill, that Klass Kote looks interesting, I will check it out thanks, Lynn

Hi Bill,

Are you using the clear epoxy or the urethane as a finish? I am going to order this today. I have not been fully satisfied with all the epoxies I have tried so far on white blanks.

Thank You,

Chris Tulk

This was brought up in a previous post and looking around at the Klass Kote site found this product which I posted previously.

[www.klasskote.com]

Have not tried it but does look interesting. This is a two part urethane clear and is supposedly durable, flexible and non yellowing. Has anyone tried this product? if so how does it perform as either a wrap finish or a blank finish? It's price is similar to rod finish epoxy, but I am not quite willing to pay $50 for something that may or may not be worth it.
Norm

I feel the same way Norman, I was the lab rat for the last brand I bought. Lynn

Klass Kote was an epoxy type paint with a solvent involved. It will yellow, even more so that most of the 100% solids epoxies. If they have changed the formulation to a urethane it would be significantly different than the previous version.

............