Good input, James and Bill. Thank you. The most difficult issue I have encountered is dealing with the 1/2 in difference in the diameter from tip to butt (or ferrule). There are others who have previously agreed with me that an automotive urethane clear would probably be the best rod finish, as discussed on a previous post. But there are limiting factors, though, including a quart being the smallest quantity, limited shelf life, designed to be sprayed (with the inherent waste of material and equipment clean up) but uncertain if adaptable to being wiped on, nasty volatile makeup (but then the Xylene in PG is nasty as well). Even though, I would still like to try it sometime because I feel it may be the ultimate rod finish. Right now, applying PG with the cosmetic pads is working quite well, if not better than expected, thanks to those who have divulged their techniques. While there may be something ultimately better, it is difficult to argue with the industry standard, even for an over thinker like me. It is similar to the blind leading the blind while agreeing “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it”. I typically disagree with that saying but it may be appropriate in this case.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Check out --- Klass Kote

Bill - willierods.com

As Bill sugested, I went to klass kote and found this two part urethane clear coat:

[www.klasskote.com]

Looks interesting. My question is has anyone else tried this stuff? How does it work as a rod finish top coat; is it brushable or wipeable; can it be used as a thread finish; what is the pot life, shelf life, and drying time? Not willing to spend $50 for a pint to test it, but might be interested if others find it acceptable, at least for a top coat.
Norm

I have used a lot of Klass Kote to put a protective clear coat on re-painted lures, jig heads and spinnerbaits. It is easy to spray and little practice is needed to get a glass like finish. The cured finish is very tough but I do not think is flexible once it has cured. After a 7 day cure, it is very hard to leave a impression in the finish with your fingernail. I have never tried to apply it on a rod but I do not think it is suitable for a wipe on or a rub on coating. Also, the price point for a 16 oz Klass Kote kit is the same as a 16 oz kit of any of the popular thread finish brands.

Doug, thanks. I agree that the price is about the same for a 16 oz kit of thread finish. Would hate to find out it is not suitable for what I want to do and waste $50. Still not sure if it's worth trying.
Norm

Thanks for the Klass Kote information. From Doug’s usage observations, I would agree it may not be worth attempting to use as a rod finish, especially utilizing a wiping application. Thanks, Doug. Back to the automotive urethane clears, all have additional flex additives for use on the soft bumpers of most present-day autos.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

I would think you could order the Wax applicator pads (like what you use to wax a vehicle) with from @#$%& for under $1 a piece. Get out the razor blade, and cut into the size you want. I believe this is the same type density foam as the cosmetic ones are. Now that I think about it, you can probably order the cosmetic applicator pads from @#$%& just as well.