[youtu.be] 6:18

Wait...is this how I'm supposed to do it? :oP

I know lots of people who "flame" their finish. Some use alcohol lamps; some use butane cigarette lighters; a few use hand held butane torches; others use various types of electric heat guns or small scrapbooking heat guns (lower temp; medium air flow). I admit that I've used them all at one time or another. Is it necessary - no if you mix the components well, are working in an area that is around 70 degrees (or more) work reasonably quickly to apply the finish (as shown in the video) then the extra heat step is not necessary - and if done more than needed can be very detrimental to the overall finish resulting in "micro bubbles" released from within the weave of the thread or "cooking" the finish which can ruin the hardness

If you talk to any epoxy formulator they'll quickly tell you not to do that.


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That's what I was thinking Tom. Based on all the info I've gathered here before I was a bit shocked to see that in the video. Looking forward to my first issue of Rodbuilding. Wife and kids got me a sub for Father's Day.

Randy,
A couple of things.

When wrapping guides, once in a while there is a little nub of thread sticking up above the threads after finishing the wrap

As a result, I finish wrapping all of the guides. Then, I align all of the guides. Then, the last step is that I flame all of the wraps, to do a couple of things. The heat from the flame will slightly tighten and shrink the wraps to make the wraps a touch tighter. Also the flame will tend to burn off any little fuzz or possible nub end that is sticking above the thread wraps.

I use an alcohol burner, using 100% alcohol, so that there is no color in the flame and thus, no soot in the flame to contaminate the wrap.

Then, after applying finish I use a bit of gentle heat from a heat gun to allow the finish to flow out a bit on the turning rod, to allow for a perfect finish.

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Both of these flame and or heat applications are quick and used sparingly to just do each of the jobs described above.

I have used both of these heat and or flame systems for the last many years of rod building and both work very well for me.

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When I look at videos of rod building factories, I find that most of the factories also use a quick flame during the wrap process to insure a perfect finish, no bubbles and laid evenly on the wraps.

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Since you are just starting, do some testing and experimenting on doing test wraps on an old rod, dowel or stick. Figure out what method of thread finish mixing, applying and finalizing the rod build works best for you and then stick with it.

Many many variations in building rods, applying finish, insuring that the final appearance of the rod is perfect. It is not my job to tell you how to use any specific method. I can only suggest variations of building rods employed by different folks around the globe and then let you test and choose the system, or systems that work best for you and your activities.

Good luck

Hey, what a great video! Thanks for the post, Randy.

Flex Coat Company
Professional Rod Building Supplies
www.flexcoat.com

I only do it if needed I do it to burn off any fuzzes left from the thread Never herd of the heat tightening the thread But maybe it does ??
Flaming the finish depends If there are bubbles in it low heat can help to get rid of them It will thin the finish so they can escape I use a light finish and always try NOT to put bubbles in it as I mix I find two thin coats seems to level very nicely A fast dryer will let me put on a med-coat If no fuzzes it covers well Depends on how it come out

Bill - willierods.com

Keep in mind Roger is "flaming" before applying any finish. If he gets any bubble bursting it's from the heat gun. I don't have a good, clean, finishing room, so I don't use a heat gun for fear of blowing occasional dust.

I use hot water on the bases of the finish containers for two minutes or so to thin the finish before mixing and application. Then gentle blowing into the mixing cup while tapping the cup down onto a table to try to raise any bubbles. I get a few with my finishing process on the first coat, cut them off before applying #2. Then I seldom find bubbles.

I used to use heat from flames on the finish, but found it was too easy for me to screw it up.

Get a spray bottle and spray around the rod and area Helps to keep dust down Also get a good vacuum cleaner LOL

Bill - willierods.com

You guys are all awesome! I love this forum. Finished up my two salt water sticks a while back and looking forward to getting the guides on a med bass rod and an UL I'm working on. Gotta clean up my work bench though! Its a bit messy right now.

Bill , it's even better when I have the fly tying stuff around!

If you use the vacuum you may wind up with less fly tying stuff LOL
I have a lot of stuff under chairs and couches Living room

Bill - willierods.com

Bill,
If that is the case, start with a clean vacuum bag.

Do an excellent job to clean every spec of floor, walls and surfaces.

Then, in a clean area, cut the bag open and retrieve any of your rod building supplies that may have been sucked up in the vacuum.


Be safe

You're the best, Roger.
Mark Talmo