Got a request for a casting rod with a Fuji pistol grip. The diameter if the blank is .450 inches and the hole in the grip is .510 inches, a clearance of .03 inches between the blank and the hole in the grip. Machining a bushing that thin would be impractical not to mention difficult. So I plan to fill the space with epoxy.
.
I will wrap a 1/8 inch wide band of nylon thread at the base of the blank and a 1/8 inch wide band just below the end of the grip. This will keep the blank centered in the grip during the curing process.

The blank will have an internal plug/sleeve about 3.0 inches long bonded in place to add strength to blank.

My question is: Would "JB Weld" be a good choice for this application. Because of its' viscosity it should fill the gap and provide the strength of a bushing.

Any comments will be appreciated.

John

Don't use a heavy paste epoxy like JB Weld or PC7. Spiral wrap your thread end to end in the area you want bonded and use regular 2-part, liquid or gel epoxy.

If you have a lathe it's not really hard to fashion a bushing of that thickness. If not, just go with the spiraled thread wrap. You may have to make two opposing wraps and/or use heavier thread.

................

Try drywall tape.
Norm

fiberglass mesh drywall tape to be specific, no?

eric
fresno, ca.

Yes, fiberglass mesh dry wall tape. Works great and is very light. The tape acts as a shim keeping things centered and mesh allows the epoxy to enter and form a strong bond between blank and handle.
Norm

If I'm not mistaken, thats .30 on the blank to wall thickness. If you are going to do a thread wrap at the start and end , then just make it a full length one spiraled as Tom said and you will have more than an adequate bond

Ron Weber

The simple and effective way to do it is to use 1/4 inch masking tape. Just create bushings that are about 3/32 inches apart. Coat the tape with epoxy and fill the voids between the tape bushings with epoxy, slip on the grip and you will be good to go. The tape will create the centering and the glue will do the holding. Never an issue with tape this way when used as bushings with glue space in between the rows of tape.

Be safe

.510
.450
_____
.060 Am I missing something in the math?

Sort of. It's a circle in a circle, so each side requires .030.

..............

All good options, but the easiest, and it is very reliable and accurate, is Roger's tape suggestion. Piece of cake. IMO

Yes The tape Prep the blank and you can give some prep to the inside of the seat Better bond Make the bushings Have the seat snug Care full which way you turn the seat on Go over the tape end not against it It will roll up and give you grief Mask any areas to keep glue off even seat

Bill - willierods.com

Thank all of you for the great advise.

I was able to get access to a precision metal lathe. I machined one of the Fuji supplied bushings to fit the blank. It turned out to be the thinnest bushing I have ever worked with.

All that is needed now is to prep the surface and apply an epoxy adhesive (NOT J B Weld) and I am good to go.

There has to be a limit on how thin a bushing can be machined and if I ever reach that point I will glean a solution from all your great suggestions.

Again thanks

john

When they get that thin, you don't likely need one.

Again, that close and a layer of spiraled A thread is generally all you need to do.

..............

Play See what holds it well

Bill - willierods.com

I plan to use the Fuji bushing that I machined which came with the grip. The bushing has a winding check molded on to one end and when I dry fit and assembled all the components the rod looks great and for this reason I am sticking with the Fuji bushing.

I appreciate all the suggestions and certainly now have bank of information to draw from.

Thanks

John

If you need to ream it out Go slow Be careful and do not push the reamer in to hard so as not to crack it It should work

Bill - willierods.com