What is your best way of applying CP to a wrap without getting that lumpy bumpy affect after applying the epoxy to it.

Glenn McMurrian

CP goes on before the epoxy, so I'm not quite sure what you're asking. Just load your brush, touch it to the wrap and rotate the rod under it. The wrap should be wet, but not dripping with CP.

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Is the CP good or maybe old and may need a little thinning What CP They are not all the same

Bill - willierods.com

Tom if you have ever used CP! You wil find that the CP tends to dry with a build up or lump so when you put epoxy over it the epoxy tends to dry with a hump where the guide feet are so how do I element this problem. I want it to dry with more of that smooth look that you get with NCP.

Glenn McMurrian

Glenn

I have used CP, CP from multiple manufacturers, and 'lumpy bumpy' has never been a problem resulting from the use of CP. Epoxy is another matter, and yes I've done my share of lumpy and bumpy, which in all cases was my fault for applying excess epoxy. So, if you are experiencing lumpy bumpy before applying finish epoxy then the first suspects are excess CP or CP that is no longer suitable for use.

Like I said -- Old Dried out making it thick and if a water based can be thinned Several thin coats is a lot better then one heavy coat -- been there done that What CP are you using
Also you should try several and see which you like Usually it is user error

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/21/2016 08:18PM by bill boettcher.

The object is to saturate the threads, once the threads are thoroughly saturated any CP that is soaking on the thread and the blank is useless and must be removed. After I am sure the threads are saturated with CP I wipe off the excess from the threads and the blank with a moist lint less gauze pad. This process removes any excess CP and eliminates any build up or lumps.

This works for me and I never had a problem of build up or lumps.

John

Glenn,

I have been using CP for going on 40+ years and not once have I gotten any sort of lumpy, bumpy surface. You're doing something wrong. Just not sure what it might be other than you're putting on way too much. The type thread you put it on won't make any difference.

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most with CP and finish put a coat on too heavy You should watch and if you have a 9 rpm dryer it may sag The shows to heavy a coat Take some off Watch to make sure it is all level You should not just put it on and walk away - Ya got to baby sit Better two thin coats then one heavy that sags

Bill - willierods.com

That what I was looking for Bill as I always go the NCP way and that is exactly why ,my
motor is a 12 rpm dryer so it sounds like from what you say I should not even have a problem.

Glenn McMurrian

You should not need to rotate a rod while the CP dries. If you do, you're putting on way, way too much. One or two flips is all it should take.

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I know I have never had to do more than a couple of rotations by hand when I have applied it

Ron Weber

So easy to let it rotate Just helps to level it better Why the heck not You are doing all the guides Acts just like putting on finish NICE AND LEVEL

Bill - willierods.com

There should be NO NEED to level CP! It is a saturate fluid, use only enough to be sure the thread is wet, no more. If it is sagging or dripping you are applying way too much!

THANK YOU, PHIL!

I tried to make that point 6 posts ago.

John

My point was that when turning you should not have to worry about sags I find it goes on nicer
If doing only two or three guides at a time I do it on the wrapper But if a whole rod on the dryer - To each his own
Plus while turning I get a soft brush to go over the guide wraps for any dust

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/22/2016 09:26AM by bill boettcher.

One of the pleasures of this craft is working out for yourself what works and what doesn't. That is, what produces acceptable results, and what does not. And, we can all define for ourselves just what is acceptable. I look at this like the old car ad; the relentless pursuit of perfection. That does not mean I have achieved perfection. Far from it, but I do improve from one build to the next. AT the very least, I don't make the same mistake twice in a row.

I start with CP by putting the bottle in a cup of very warm water. Theis seems to help quite a bit in getting the stuff mixed up well. It will separate, if left alone long enough. The solids will settle to the bottom of the bottle, so it needs to be mixed. After the bottle is warm to the touch, I lay it on it's side, and roll it along the bench top. This mixes it well without making as a lot of bubbles. Then I pour it into a little mix cup.

I apply with the wrap motor running about 200 rpm. Put enough on the saturate the thread, hit it with a heat lamp briefly, and brush off the excess using the a different damp brush. Hit each wrap with the heat lamp again, and it's ready for the second coat in about an hour. I appply the second coat the same as the first, minus the heat lamp. After ti dries overnight, it's ready for finish. I suspect I could apply finish sooner, but I have been reluctant to try.

Also, I can tell no difference between Flex Coat and Threadmaster CP.