I'm just looking for any advice or techniques for applying CP to the top of a tiger wrap. This is on a Madeira wrap, so the gap is very small. The last time I tried, I ended up losing the effect. I don't know if I moved the threads and closed in the gaps or if the cp covered up the undercoat to the point of blocking the holographic effect. I had to pull off a lot of thread and ended up having to sand down some of the epoxy and apply another coat. Finally got it done up again and before I put CP on, was hoping to hear from you guys.

The CP I used last time is U-40. I also just got a bottle of urethane stuff similar to PermaGloss, but is advertised as a CP and rod coating. Can't post the name here. I've never used that as CP, except on black Madeira on a different rod. So I can't say how well it protects colors. The manufacturer claims that it works well on darker colors, but not as much on lighter colors. Red isn't completely light, but not super dark like a blue either..

One thing I missed last time was hitting it with a heat gun to soften the epoxy and lock in the threads. I will do that this time. I also don't know if my CP application technique was a little aggressive, which might have moved the threads a bit and closed in gaps. I basically spun the rod under power and just flowed a wet coat from but to tip ends of the wrap using a disposable brush.

Please disregard some of what I wrote. Maybe just talk of your technique on applying. I read some older posts by Steve McLeod and Tom from when I first had this fiasco that answer a lot of my questions. Just forgot having already asked. It looks as if the effect will come back.

But I still would like to know if my described technique is ok for this application. Or would I be better off using a natural brush on a slow rotation etc.?

I use a hair dryer to heat the top layer prior to removing the sacrificial thread. A heat gun might burn the thread. I don't apply cp under power to wraps, fine on the base layer if you prefer doing it that way, but not on the top layer where the sacrificial thread has been removed, greater chance of disturbing the thread and messing up the pattern especially if you didn't wrap tight enough. Follow my instructions on my old post and you won't go wrong.

Jersey, Channel Islands. (U.K.)

I put the CP on the base wrap, let dry then I put many light coats of epoxy. The overwrap I put the thread on with sacrificial, burnish, remove Sac. Thread, then put CP on the main thread. Let it dry and put epoxy on it.

Turned out well.

Is that the cp you use? I have a bottle of that, but don't know how it'll work with the Madeira. What kind of thread did you use? I think I may try size a next time. Its a bit bigger than Madeira so may work a little better with a larger gap.

Is that the cp you use? I have a bottle of that, but don't know how it'll work with the Madeira. What kind of thread did you use? I think I may try size a next time. Its a bit bigger than Madeira so may work a little better with a larger gap.

I can't remember, all I do remember is that the CP turned one pink thread almost red in color. this one kinda dulled the pink. I think it was fish hawk thread.
I used it on Voodoo dual colors and it worked great.

Oh the CP ya I definitely used the one you can't say here, which I have no idea why. I just used it to coat a road blank too. Good Stuff

Yeah I'd like to use some too, but I used U40 for all the other wraps so figured I shouldn't mix it up in the middle of the build. I plan to CP tomorrow and epoxy on Tuesday.

I've been camping with the fam this weekend. Caught my first bass on a lure today. It was on a crank bait. Then I cast into a limb and broke half the lip off. I think a crank bait rod will be an upcoming build!