On my first few builds I just measured some rods that I already had from a big box store and measured out my split grips the same way. Then I had a buddy of mine that participates in several tournaments a year tell me that my rods were tip heavy. So after that I have started trying to rubber band the reel I would be using onto the blank and try to find a better balancing point before gluing things into position. However, I do not always have the correct reel for each potential customer. Am I putting too much effort into this step? Is there a standard measurement that you guys are using for reel seat placement in order to build a decently balanced rod? If so does that measurement change depending on rod length and action? I would greatly appreciate any information you may have on this subject. Thanks in advance!

To answer your question as to whether or not you're putting too much effort into balancing a rod and reel combination for your customers.

In general, I would say no. But then again, balance isn't as important on rods for some techniques, as it is of rods used for other techniques. If the rod is going to be used for slack or semi slack line techniques, then yes, I feel it being either neutrally balanced, or tip light, is a huge benefit.

A balanced or tip light rod aids in bite detection. It makes manipulating the rod tip easier and more precise. And it's less fatiguing.

As to whether or not there's a standard measurement for the reel seat to build a decently balanced rod. Please don't take this the wrong way, but decently balanced is nothing more than a factory rod. IMO when a person comes to you and asks you to build them a rod, unless they only want a rod with a specific color theme, then they are coming to you for a better than factory rod.

You don't need every reel on hand to balance the rod. Simply have your customer supply the reel they're going to be using on the rod. If they can't leave it with you on their initial visit because they want to keep using it until their new rod is built, then at least have them bring it and leave it with you for a few days once you're ready to start their build. It's the least they can do to insure they're getting a well balanced rod.

And I'm sure you'll get responses to the contrary ..... but there's nothing wrong with adding a little weight to the butt of a rod in order to balance it. You can only move a reel seat so far before it has the potential to affect the ability to use the rod.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/25/2016 07:35AM by David Baylor.

some of the suppler's on the left did sell weights to add to the but to balance the rod as well a a weight on a rod that went in an out to help with the balance on a rod don't know if they still sell them, Mud hole did have such item's

William Sidney
AK

Not using split grips would help balance, using lighter/smaller guides, less finish, and putting absolutely nothing on a rod that doesn't have to be there all help balance.

When I first started building rods, I would add weight to balance the rod because in some cases I wanted very short handles.

After a couple of years that even though the rod balanced, I really didn't care for the extra weight that adding the weight to the rod did to the rod.

As a result, now I build rods balanced, and in some cases means using longer rear grips. But I would rather do that, than add weight to the rod.

Be safe

Expanding on what Bill said, take a look at the Fuji EWBC Weighted Butt Cap. I've used that on a couple of rods and by unscrewing the screw, you can add more remove the weighted discs to balance your rod.

If balancing the rod detracts from its ergonomic function, it is a penalty. I maintain that the rod should be built as light as possible, and if the only way to balance it is to put an excessively long grip so that it gets caught in my clothing, or to add weight to the butt, then balancing the rod is counterproductive. The only way to balance a rod which is made from the lightest blank and the lightest guides and an ergonomic length grip is to use the lightest reel possible. IMHO

Food for thought on the handle even a split grip instead of say cork use wood the heaver material will help to balance it

Bill - willierods.com

Michael? Wouldn't you want to use a heavier reel?

In actuality, and these are just my feelings and directed at no one ...... the reason rod balance is more ..... I guess, problematic for some, is longer rods, lighter reels, and split rear grips made with lighter materials. I haven't been building long, but I would imagine that it was much easier to balance a rod by moving the reel seat a half inch or so, when rods were using full length rear grips made of cork. Now, because split grips are in vogue, moving a reel seat a half an inch forward doesn't cut it.

As a result of the debates I've read and participated in on this forum that deal with rod balance, I did some experiments. I had to move a reel seat 2 inches forward. to achieve the balance that adding 3/8 at the very butt of the rod would achieve.

When comparing a tip heavy rod, and a rod that is balanced, but weighs 3/8 of an oz more, the heavier rod feels lighter, fishes more efficiently, and fishes more comfortably.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/28/2016 08:20AM by David Baylor.

With the reel being so near the fulcrum of the lever (depending on how you grip the rod) I don't find reel swaps all that helpful. I hesitate to add weight at all to a lightweight blank that costs a premium. A quality blank, well thought out grip, and guide train should result in a rod that is a pleasure to fish.