hi,
i applied a light cote of ProKote over my decal area, about 6''.
i have slight ridges perpendicular to rod, over this area now.
it's cured.
in the morning, i was going to block sand it with real fine sandpaper just to knock off the high spots, then apply another
thin coat. with a better appling method this time.

i'm i on the right track with the sanding ?

thx,

If it's really thin layer then I wouldn't sand it down at all before applying another layer. But if it's thick enough I'd sand it down and apply another layer. It's really a judgement call if you think you have enough epoxy to work with so you don't sand too far to mess up the blank or decal.

i was afraid if i just put another layer on, it would just build up thickness & still have the ridges.
or will it just fill in the low spots ?
i'll look at it really close with magnifing glass and make sure i only it the tops.

i do this while spinning it right?

thx so much for help. this is the last step.

I know many on here are against what I'm about to throw out here, but...when it comes to covering decals or butt wraps, I put a lot if epoxy on and then torch it (without smoking the finish) which gets rid of excess epoxy yet leaves a nice finished layer when cured. It turns out smooth every time and is a very quick process.

Put on a good wet coat No heat while turning
Watch it If it seems to be flowing leave it

Bill - willierods.com

i did two test spots on a old rod. i brushed one on going lengthwise, and the other perpendicular,
looked great sitting there. put it on the dryer 12 hrs, and it's still has a few flawes.
from all the videos i've watched, i'm putting it on to thin i think.
doesn't look that hard to do....

fwiw, the ridges on my decal disappeared after the second coat of ProKote. I'm using a small 8pt single line decal and the first attempt had a corner lift up through the wet epoxy. I pulled the decal off and allowed the epoxy to set up and dry. The second attempt I placed the decal and then let it sit for a few hours to securely attach itself, and then applied the finish. Had a small ridge last night after the finish dried but went ahead and applied the next coat. This morning everything is fine and smooth to the eye and touch.

Excellent Good to hear
David
Was that first coat over the Decal or just on the blank before the decal was put on
If just over the blank you could have just given it a scoff
Anyway glad it all worked

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/06/2016 12:37PM by bill boettcher.

my first coat was over the decal. no issues with the decal.
i just can't get this epoxy to level out perfect.
i still haven't applied the 2nd coat. going to do some light sanding, then apply another coat.
i was waitig to see what help i got here first.

room i'm applying it, is around 65 degrees. maybe i need to run some low heat from my heat gun on it to get it to flow out ?
plus i'mputting it on really then. maybe there's not enough epoxy to real flow out.... ?

David,
I use high build epoxy, and I generally only use 1+ coats on the rod.

By 1+ I simply mean that I very quickly get a coat of epoxy on the rod starting from the butt. This initial application is to get enough epoxy on the rod so that everything is essentially covered.

Then I carefully go over the rod again, starting from the butt to be sure that there are no bubbles or voids anywhere on the rod. I will use a bit of heat if necessary to get rid of any bubbles and to get any epoxy to flow that is needed.

Then, after leaving the epoxy turning for about 10 minutes, I go one more once over to see if there are any thin spots on the guide. If there is a thin spot, I just put a dab of finish on that spot while continuing to let the rod turn. Then I do the final once over checking with a very bright light and a magnified head piece to be sure that the finish is perfect. if there is a high spot or similar, I will just aim a bit of low heat at that spot to let the finish level. Then, I will just let it go for another 10 minutes keeping an eye on it from time to time and if everything continues to be all right, I will transfer the rod to my drum dryer for overnight drying.

Then, the following afternoon, I typically package the rod and ship it. By doing the finish application in 1+ passes, I save at least one or more drying cycles for applying more finish.

Be safe

thank for the great info.
i block sande with 1500 grit.
put it on a tad thicker and put some low heat to it, it looks like glass now.

I am just learning to build rods. when you say low heat, what is your heat source ?

William Neil Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I am just learning to build rods. when you say low
> heat, what is your heat source ?

heat gun. as far as how hot. i can keep my hand, right in front of gun...
then i'm guessing its not to hot to boil the epoxy.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/08/2016 01:34PM by David Hauch.

I used to have to ridges like you stated. Then I followed the finishing process in the Library and the video Tom K. put on youtube. That solved all my issues. I think I got ridges from putting in on the dryer right away, like it kept the epoxy from leveling out nice. Turning by hand periodically for the first half hour to an hour and wicking excess off the bottom works for me.

John Shear
Chippewa Falls, WI