When doing decorative wraps, I've seen people wrap multiple threads at the same time. Is there a trick to keeping the threads from crossing over each other? Other than just being careful.

Hold them together in your fingers and find the span that allows you to lay them down evenly without them crossing. The problem area isn't so much on the wrap, but behind your point of hold, where the natural twist of the threads will tend to make them want to tangle with each other. You'll find it helpful to make sure none of the threads are doubled, i.e. you want each thread to have a free end so most any twist that takes place can come off the free end. You'll be able to understand this better once you try it.

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If you run one thread between each gap created by your fingers, and then apply tension with your thumb, just try to angle your wrist/hand/fingers/thumb so that the threads have a small gap between each one. Threads don't have to be laid tight to each other as you wrap. Just go back and position and pack the threads after you wrap a bunch.

The guys I know who knock out a closed wrap in a couple of hours might lay 10+ threads down with gaps between each and every one before pausing to go back and position and pack.

Hi Scott

What Tom said, but I do one other thing to help eliminate the twisting and tangling. I cut the thread to length ( a bit oversized) for each run rather than leaving it on the spool. That lets the ends free to untwist as you run them through your fingers.

Depending on the wrap and the thread I am using I find I can wrap up to about 6 to 8 strands per run without problems. Be sure to inspect and pack after each run.

Hope this helps

John Ashburn

You definitely need to cut the threads from the spool. The tag end needs to be free.

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one other hint, as you wrap, when it's time to slide your fingers down the threads so you can wrap more, with your off hand, pin the already wrapped threads down onto the blank, and hold the uwrapped threads very lightly as you move your hand down the threads, then regrip those, reapply tension, unpin the threads with your off hand, continue wrapping. When you pinch those threads while sliding your hand down the threads, all that back pressure causes twisty tangles. I just let the threads dangle over my fingers as i move them down the thread, then pinch them pull them tight again. you can pinch and pull

when you are separating different colors, and they cannot cross over, you can use a comb. However, if you have a 5 thread band of one color, a few crossovers will not be evident in the final product (and in fact, where they cross over, there is a good chance that will covered anyway).

Tom Kirkman Wrote:
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> You definitely need to cut the threads from the
> spool. The tag end needs to be free.
>
> ..............

Why is it a 'definite"? Maybe I'm misunderstanding. Are you saying it's a must to pre-cut before laying threads or after?

If your talking about pre-cutting it's certainly optional. I don't pre-cut threads. None of the top wrappers I know pre-cut their threads unless there is a very specific design element reason to do so. Are we all wrong?

If this is really a problem for you and you are struggling with your technique try this: Make a full pass up/down and then cut your threads, straighten them out, and start again. Keep the thread uncut during the wind up/down - don't precut it. The reason threads curl between your hand and the spools in the first place is because the tension we apply to the threads "unwinds" the natural twist the manufacturer's designed into the thread. When you pre-cut the threads your encouraging the cut ends of the threads to unwind; this is not desirable.

Instead, learn how to wrap uncut threads by practicing how to work with uncut threads. Keep your thumb close to the blank (to minimize the length of the unwind effect), apply the correct pressure (if you get a lot of twisting your probably pulling too hard), avoid sharp thread direction changes as the thread passes through your hand (adjust your wrist, hand, and fingers - be conscious of the thread pathing inside your hand), and learn how to "catch up and straighten" the thread as you make your turns and reverse wrap directions.



Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 11/30/2015 01:43PM by John E Powell.

If you do not cut the threads from the spools, the twist that can occur behind your fingers can build to a point that creates kinks and knots. If the tag ends are free this won't happen. I'm not exactly a beginner when it comes to decorative wrapping. Those who are may benefit from this advice.

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Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/30/2015 03:54PM by Tom Kirkman.

Some cut and some do not. But the best way to find out which way works best for you is to try both! I ended up learning to cut my threads to length and then some and run them with the far ends free. Not only did it reduce twist and tangles but allowed me to work with less spools of thread on hand. I have wrapped eight bands of a single color at one time and if you do not cut the strands then you need eight spools of the same color thread. To each his own but I prefer cutting my threads instead of working from the spool/s... I also tried a comb but go too many tangles up against the teeth as the threads twisted together. The little Clemens tool with a brass tube and holed end cap was even worse! Try both and see which way is easier for you.

Another good point about the number of individual spools needed.

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Thanks for all the feedback! I'll just keep practicing. It does seem a little more difficult for me doing it with metallic threads.

Scott

If you continue to have issues send me a PM. I believe you have the email address.

John Ashburn