Im still new to building and one area that keeps getting me is final finish. More importantly the tendency of the side profile to have hills and valleys. This is on tigers and crosswraps.
How many coats of finish should one put on a crosswrap/tiger?
Do i need to be sanding between coats to level the surface some?
I apply finish at a higher rpm but not high enough to create footballs and then let the finish set on a dryer. Maybe im puting to much on at once and its sagging as it drys

Any help would be appreciated.

Make sure the rod is level.
Put the finish on at moderate speed.
Stop the rod and wick off sags, then let it cure at a reduced speed.
Don't screw around trying to "paint" the finish sideways to fill in low spots.

You shouldn't have problems with Tigers because they are basically flat.
I usually just put one coat on the bottom wraps and two on the top.
However, if there are decals, or if I start the wrap before the guides are on etc, the rod will be spending more time on the dryer, so I might add additional thin coats, just to add depth.

I can't level cross wraps in one or two coats.
I measure my finish carefully using small syringes.
I prefer to mix small batches of finish. I.E. just enough for the one wrap, not enough for the wrap and the guides or for two wraps.
I would rather use two or more small batches than have a large batch start to thicken up.

In my opinion, you can't fill valleys and make things level with more coats of finish.
Here what works for me...
Add coats until you have enough finish in the low areas that you can sand the high spots down without exposing the highest threads. Using a steady rest and a sanding block sand off the high spots.
You now have a flat surface and can apply one last level coat to remove the sanding marks.
Good luck.

That might be my problem. I use the brush to apply finish then work it down the rod wrap to coat the rod. I have not been letting the sags fall on the bottom. Typically i measure the smallest amount the finish syringe allows. I also dont usea steady reat when sanding just paper against the finish. Makes sense that wouldnt help

I had also been adding multiple coats thinking the next would fill in the valley of the last.

If you are doing a lot of cross wraps, just use one or two coats, save the weight and just enjoy the appearance that you get on the rod.

Nothing wrong with high and low spots on decorative wraps, if it is uniform with the wrapping.

This saves a lot of sanding and extra filling and having extra weight on the rod.

Your choice.

If you do a lot of decorative wraps, you will have to end up with some pretty thick finish coats, that have been sanded to level the finish by knocking the high spots off of the high wraps.

Be safe

Google Doc Ski applying finish. Lynn

This will explain things:

[www.rodbuilding.org]

.................

What I do is turn my on my rod dryer and put a very heavy coat of finish over the wraps. Then I torch it to remove bubbles and it also allows the excess finish to drip off. I also use a brush or the lip of my mixing cup to remove any little drips on the bottom that are sagging, but won't fall off on their own. This will give me a smooth finish every time over cross wraps and guide wraps too.

So you don't brush it on at all outside of initially putting the heavy finish on the blank?

Shoot I thought you had to use your brush to run the finish along the wrap.

No, the brush is just an application tool. Brushing, poking, prodding, etc., only causes problems. It shouldn't take more than about 20 seconds to coat a guide wrap. And the best way to get rid of excess finish, is not to put on too much to begin with.

.....................

Thats why I love the forum

Try putting it on thick and let it drip, then spin it fast to smooth out.. Vic Heal gave me that little tip.