I'm having an issues with what the best foregrip would be for a 6'1" SC I I Light blank. It's going to end up being a basic crappie rod, throwing jigs with occasional slip floats. I'm doing a split grip with a 16mm standard Fuji reel seat. The seat will be down-locking, with it being cut down to fit the reel with only a few twist of the nut. Now why I'm getting frustrated:

Awhile back someone mentioned a tapered winding check through Mudhole, which I used on a 6' MH fluke/senko rod. When I cast a bait with full force, the line slips oft the tip of my finger and the bait goes way up high. I am using 10 lb fluoro or 20-30 lb braid. I have a similar rig as this and it has a cork foregrip/down-locking nut as one piece. I have no issues cast full force with the cork foregrip.

So my first question is how can I fix my issue with losing control of the cast with the 6'MH?

My second question is what could I do for a foregrip on the SC I I build?
The locking nut needs to be able to come up over the cork when I loosen it (which the tapered winding check allows), and I don't see an option through Mudhole for that. If I need to I can sand the foregrip down so it's flush. Which if that's what is suggested, I will research and do a few practice pieces. (I'm afraid it won't come out looking good)

Hopefully that explains the issues well enough, and as always I appreciate any ideas. This forum has helped me a ton!

Can't you use one of the Fuji foregrip/nut combos in the Mudhole catalog HPS or KDPS.

If your uplocking seat has been trimmed so that you need it to go beyond the end of the threads, then I believe your only option is to custom turn a cork foregrip leaving the rear diameter of it the same as the minor diameter of the threads, then jumping it up to the diameter you prefer for casting. If your uplocking seat doesn't need to go beyond the end of the threads just turn a cork foregrip of whatever dimensions you like.

TO GET THE FOREGRIP ONTO THE ROD, IN BOTH CASES, you can 1. bore it to the right diameter for installation onto the rod in its proper place, 2. carefully split it in half longitudinally to allow the halves of the piece to be independently glued to the rod. 3. While the epoxy is still soft, clamp the halves together somehow (I think a wax paper isolator layer covered with electrical tape (slightly stretched as applied) would work. 4. finish the part by sanding. If you can turn the completed rod on a lathe, this should be easy, just go from about 150 to finer sandpaper to get a finish that matches the rear grip.

Hey Miles! This would build a short stubby fore grip that I think? you are looking for? Is this what you are trying to accomplice? Sorry but I'm having a hard time picturing the problem in my brain today, This would replace the hood and nut you are using now, [www.mudhole.com] and this [www.mudhole.com] Jay



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/03/2015 05:15PM by Jay Dubay.

Are you using to heavy a lure on this blank ?? Or maybe too heavy What is the lure weight recamended for the blank

Foregrip just make a grip smaller then the seat so the nut goes off and you can put your reel on -- Maybe you cut TOO much off the seat Do you need a foregrip ??

Carefull next time and slow down Think of what you want before you start cutting Or come here and ask - before you cut anything

I looked at Scant Croix's and not many list a heavy line you are using ???

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/03/2015 06:10PM by bill boettcher.

Haven't got to research it much today but I should have a verdict tomorrow. The st croix is a light action, I will be using 10lb braid at the heaviest with it. I mentioned the 6' MH because I need to fix the issue I have with it, and so I can explain the problem I don't want to have with the st croix.

I didn't cut the seat down too much, it works great. The issue is I'm holding the line against the winding check and I can't control it. This has all been great input and I think it's more than enough for me to make a decision. I'm just being really picky lol.

God Bless and Good Fishin

If I misunderstood your post I am sorry

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/03/2015 08:44PM by bill boettcher.

Personally, and please don't take this the wrong way, but I think your problem with the 6' MH, and the problem you're worried about having with the rod you're in the process of building, is casting technique related.

Miles, I just reread the comment on "holding the line against the winding check." If you mean that is how the line is held until let loose to make the cast, I think you'll have much better control if you hold the line against the lip of the spool, both for starting the cast and feathering at the end of the cast if you want to slow the lure down or shorten the cast.

Miles,

There was a comment about losing the line off the tip of your finger when casting, which tells me that you are not really using the fore grip anyway to cast with.

Try just putting the line back to the first joint on your finger when casting and practice until the new line position becomes comfortable. I know that when I cast with a spinning reel, there is little contact with the line and finger against the fore grip when casting. I think that if you just refine your casting technique a bit to start with the line further up under your fingers first joint all of your casting and line slipping issues will disappear.

I have thought about my casting technique, too. So this tells me I should look more into that as well, it's good input. You know how we can get, "there's no way it's me it's gotta be the damn rod!" Lol.

Miles, unless you're throwing extemely heavy baits, and based on the rods you mentioned, you aren't, then there really should be no need for you to pinch the line between your finger tip, and any part of the rod or reel. Once again I hope you don't take what I'm saying the wrong way, because I'm certainly not saying you're casting completely wrong, We all have our own ways or little quirks casting. I just think that if you changed up your casting technique a bit, that your casting will improve.

While Roger's recommendation of laying the line in the first joint of your finger will work, I find that you if you simply pick up the line from the spool with the line laying just past the little high spot on the tip of your index finger (between the high spot and the first joint) that there will be more than enough tension to keep the line from slipping while casting. Even if you're casting fairly heavy baits.

Michael's suggestion of feathering your line with you finger tip is a good one as well. Another suggestion I might add is to use your off hand to feather the line as well. I close the bail of spinning reels with my off hand (non casting hand) and occasionally if I'm making short pitches to cover I'll kind of cup the front of the spool with my off hand, letting the coils of line hit the inside of my hand as it's coming off the spool.

I've found that using that method of cast control with spinning gear allows me to make almost as quiet a bait entry into the water, as I can make with bait casting gear. It''s just one of the benefits of closing the bail with your off hand.

Like Roger said...... tweaking your casting technique can help in a lot of different ways.

When I cast with spinning reels I have the line pinned against the reel seat/fore grip/winding check, depending on what the rod is built with. Honestly, if you think about it: the tapered winding check I have on the 6'MH(the one I'm having issues with) might be the issue. I have other rods that don't have fore grips which I can cast with no issue.

I'm not offended one bit about the casting technique comments, it's a valid point and it has crossed my mind. My rods that don't have a fore grip, I pin the line against the reel seat. Which isn't as "slick" as the tapered winding check. I cut the reel seat down so much that I can't really hold the line against it(which I don't think is an issue honestly). If I make a cork "winding check" to replace the vinyl one, I think I will be golden. I will post a picture of the reel seat/winding check hopefully tonight if not tomorrow. I think I have a solution from what it sounds like?

The custom building is a ton of fun, I really enjoy being on this forum, I would be quite a bit more lost if not! Thanks everyone!

[www.rodbuilding.org]

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Hopefully I copy and pasted correctly, don't think I did though.....

The two pictures are 101 and 102 under grips and handle section of photo page.