I would like to learn how to do the basic chevron cross wraps. I tried spacing 1" on a wood dowel for the 0 degree mark, and at the 180 degree mark I started at 1/2" and then went to 1". When you wrap from the 0 degree mark wrapping toward the rod tip, I have the thread in the center of the dot, when i wrap on the 180 degree mark going toward the butt, I notice the whole wrap on both sides is crooked, I don,t know what to do. Any help would be appreacited, if someone knows a good book on the subject, please let me know. Thank you.

Have seen Custom Rod Thread Art suggested, but also that you need a basic understanding. Check out mudhole's references section. The B. D. Edler set has some really good info. I didn't really follow your issue though. Maybe if you posted a picture of what your problem is, people may be able to help more. YouTube has some good videos too on people making decorative wraps.

Tom K.s book Rod Building Guide has a great chapter on basic crosswraps including chevrons. Step by step by step color pictures. I think crookedness comes more from bad alignment at the start than anything else but it shows how to make the wraps straight also.

Paul, I don't know if there was a typo in your post on spacing of the 180 degree axis or not, but for your sample test wrap you described you should have spacing on the full inch marks on the top (0 degree) axis (1", 2", 3", 4" etc.) and on the bottom (180 degree) axis the spacing would be half way between those at (.5", 1.5", 2.5", 3.5", 4.5" etc). You wrote that your second mark on the 180 degree axis was placed at 1", not 1.5". If that was a typo and you did have it at 1.5", then the next thing to check would be to make sure the axis are actually 180 degrees apart, not just close to 180 degrees from each other. Also, you need to confirm that both axis start measuring from exactly the same point on opposite sides. If your off even a small amount left or right, or fore and aft, then the distances are not actually 1/2" apart. A drafter's circle template, available at most office supply stores, is a great inexpensive tool to help you get the axis identified and located correctly on your blank (dowel).

The distance of the spacing you choose relative to the circumference of your blank (or dowel in this case) determines the angle at the crosses between threads wrapped "up" and "down" the blank. Many people will make their spacing equal to the circumference (Diameter x Pi [3.14]) so the threads cross each other at 90 degree angles. This is known as "square" spacing. As threads are built up at 90 degrees the resulting shape will appear to be "squareish" - keep in mind your wrapping thread on a round surface not a flat plane. If your spacing is more or less than your circumference the threads will not be crossing at 90 degrees to each other and the resulting shape formed by the threads that build up will be diamond shaped.

If your spacing is less than the circumference this is called a compressed spacing. If the spacing is more than the circumference then this is called elongated spacing. In either case, the diamond shape is similar, but the direction of the long and short axis of the diamonds will be reversed. In compressed spacing, the longer distance will be oriented left-to-right (across your 0 and 180 degree axis - or around your circumference) while elongated spacing results with the long axis of the diamond oriented up-to-down (along your 0 and 180 degree axis).

Once you get these basic concepts down, then the next step is to understand that most blanks are tapered unlike your down with a consistent diameter (and circumference) along it's length. To compensate for this tapering of a rod blank, builders will often employ a strategy called taper-offset spacing. This is a whole subject in itself, but very basically this means in order to have crosses that appear to be the same size with similar size distances between the crosses the layout distances are adjusted to account for the taper.

If I were just starting out, I'd begin with a YouTube search for decorative wrap spacing or layout (or similar variations). Once you get that under your belt, try to learn about taper offset spacing. After that, you could delve deeper into the subtleties of spacing and learn how more complex patterns are laid out. A good old school book would be Dale Clemen's Custom Rod Thread Art, and for a fresh perspective and approach Billy Vivona's Decorative Wraps is also very good. Between the two books, you'll have a lifetime of inspiration, knowledge, and step-by-step directions.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/28/2015 08:58AM by John E Powell.

I want to thank all that responded to my question. I watched some video's on youtube, and read some more on the subject, I found out that iwas off a little in marking the wood dowell i am using for practice. My problem was I was moving too fast. I redid my work and ran 3 threads up and down the blank and it came out real well. I did order Mr. Clemins Advanced rod building book. I should be on my way. Thank you guys.