So, after doing a little reading and talking to a few anglers whose opinions and feedback I've come to trust, it seems as if I may have set myself up for some potential heartbreak by purchasing a pair of Aetos casting rods. Now I will say that they're super light and even the 7'6" MH balances a lot better than I expected it to, even with a light reel on it. I realy like how both the 7'6" and 7' MH's fish.

I have read a bit about the reel seat nut coming loose from the cork its glued to (the cork breaks away from the nut somehow in most instances) as well as the guides not always holding up very well since they're titanium rather than some of the harder materials. Obviously these instances are tough to gauge since it's hard to know exactly how a stranger treats their gear. However, since I'd like to hone my meager rod building skills, I thought it might be a good idea to gather a little info. I know there's a ton of info about stripping and rewrapping guides, I won't bother you with that. What I'm curious about is the reel seat nut: what are my options for replacing the stock one should that be necessary?

Worst case scenario, I'll strip the guides and rewrap them in a simple spiral, then change out the hook keeper and reel seat nut at the same time.

Thanks in advance!

Depends on what type reel seat in on that rod. Best bet, if you really like the rod, is to replace the reel seat, although that generally requires that you at least replace the rear grip as well.

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It's a Fuji skeleton seat Tom. Here's a link to their product page: [www.fenwickfishing.com] Are the threads pretty standard across Fuji's range? If so, I could probably just use a standard reel seat nut, correct? Loking at Fuji's website, it looks like they make that reel seat in a conventional no-foregrip locking nut: [anglersresource.net] The question is whether I could getd just the nut or if I'd have to purchase an entire reel seat assembly... The seat that my rods use is KSKTS (the first one listed on the Fuji product page).



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 09/04/2015 09:00AM by Adam Lancia.

If it's a Fuji reelseat, I doubt the seat itself will give you any problem. But yes, the threads are standardized across the range. Any 16 will fit any 16.

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You can buy the reel seat nut at git-bit under fuji sk2 reel seats individual parts. The price listed is $2.29.

You can buy the reel seat nut at git-bit under fuji sk2 reel seats individual parts. The price listed is $2.29.

You can buy the reel seat nut at git-bit under fuji sk2 reel seats individual parts. The price listed is $2.29.

Thanks guys! Looks like my project has a nicely defined path.

Adam,
In the link, the rod looks like it is a very well made rod.

If the cork grip comes loose from the reel seat nut, the rod should be returned to the manufacturer for replacement.

If you decide to do it yourself, just slip the cork off of the nut, add a good coat of 5 minute epoxy and glue the cork back on the nut.

This style nut is used on many different rods with great success. If the cover over the nut comes loose, it is almost always caused by insufficient adhesive used to adhere the cover to the nut, whether it is cork, eva or some sort of plastic or nylon.

Be safe

Hi Roger. From what I've seen, the cork breaks perpendicular to the blank right at the front edge of the nut leaving part of the cork attached to the nut and the rest of it unattached from the nut. I could glue the two pieces of cork back together, face to face, but I'm not sure how long that would hold up. Should it fail, I'm not sure that I'd want to have it replaced with the same style of nut.

Adam,
Another simple option that is not as attractive, but will certainly work, is to simply remove all of the broken cork from the nut, and just wrap the nut with Black tape. The tape will cover the threads and you will be good to go.

It doesn't appear that there is anything wrong with the nut, only the front cover over the nut?

Be safe

Roger, that's correct, the threads are fine when the cork breaks away from it. Maybe I'll find some narrow tennis handle wrap and use that if I run into the cork breaking situation. Thanks for the idea Roger.

Just get a piece of eva, ream to the correct size and length for the application, and you should be able to squeeze it to make it go over the guides if they are too tall, then just glue it on

Ron Weber

Yanno know something Ron, that would probably be the cleanest looking solution, thanks!