I have recently been having a problem where I heat the finish over the butt wrap it breaks the bubbles up but more and more bubbles form. I then hit it with more heat to break up those bubbles and more come out again. I am using flex coat high build. Any ideas appreciated ready to start throwing things

You're boiling the finish, which creates more bubbles. Age old problem and predictable result - too much heat.

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I'm glad you asked this question Mike, I've had the same issue a couple times. Looks like I need to get rid of the pencil torch and use a simple lighter.

Ok Sounds like I'm boiling the finish then. Air bubbles are frustrating to say the least

Alcohol lamp is all that is needed and don't get anywhere near the finish. Just radiant heat from the lamp is all that is needed.

The best way to get rid of bubbles........Not to have them in the first place! Mix SLOW or use a power mixer. Then apply with spatula or wet brush in separated epoxy before dipping in main batch which is warm and on aluminum foil. No bubbles to start no bubbles to heat or worry about.

I had two power mixers both broke. I'll try again

You don't need to torch or use flame at all, a couple of goose neck lamps or a heat box and you don't need to put heat on the wraps themselves. Not one factory rod is made by using a torch, lighter, or alcohol lamp!! Just a warm place to rotate the rod while the finish cures.

Mike,
A long time ago, I was using an alcohol burner to lightly heat the finish.

However, I ended up with the very same issue that you had. As a result of this problem, I put away the alcohol burner and have never used flame on finish again.

However, I do use a heat gun. I find that I can get the light heating that I need with sweeping passes of the heat gun and I have never had a repeat of the issue boiling finish.

But, as others have said over and over - minimize the generation of bubbles, apply finish when it is freshly mixed and able to easily flow,

I don't use a power mixer, simply because I don't care for the waste and the potential for poorly mixed finish on the edges of the mixing cup. Rather, I just use a craft stick slowly to mix the finish over the 2 minutes that I use to mix finish.

Since I apply the finish to a fast turning rod, I seldom spend more than two or three minutes to apply the finish and get it all on the rod.

Then, I go back and check every location where finish is located, and insure that it is in good shape and in proper condition. I will touch up any thin or thick spots and insure that all bubbles - if any have been removed. I do all of the inspections under intense light and high magnification. With the light and magnification - it is easy to detect the tiniest flaws and correct them.

Be safe

All wraps and buttwraps particularly trap air. Put the first coat on thindon't mess with it just let it turn that will seal the wrap. The thin coat will let out any bubbles that form then put on a second coat. all you are doing when messing with the finish after you apply it is causing problems.

Randolph Ruwe Wrote:
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> You don't need to torch or use flame at all, a
> couple of goose neck lamps or a heat box and you
> don't need to put heat on the wraps themselves.
> Not one factory rod is made by using a torch,
> lighter, or alcohol lamp!! Just a warm place to
> rotate the rod while the finish cures.


Actually, St Croix does use a torch to bust bubbles. It's just a quick pass and they are done, they don't linger on any epoxy, just a quick pass. They also leave the epoxy sit for a minute or two for the chemical reaction to take place, pour it out on a plate and then apply.

I think I am also mixing too much finish at once. I am usually mixing 10cc of each and coating three rods at a time.

If you are mixing that much finish, the finish is bound to be pretty thick by the time that you get to the 3rd rod and may not easily thin without the application of heat and potentially overheat and boil the finish.

Rather, mix by hand slowly, just enough finish to finish 1 rod or if you work slowly 1/2 a rod. I suspect that you will largely eliminate your issues by going to the much smaller batch of finish. I try to make a point that from the time that I start mixing, I mix for 2 minutes or 120 seconds and I like to have all of the rod coated and drying at the end of the 5th minute, or a total of 3 minutes from start to finish on coating the guides and wraps. By maintaining this time, the finish is just starting to "kick" when I go to the slow drying speed.

Be safe

Thanks Roger and everyone lot of good ideas here. I am going to start using smaller batches of epoxy and do one small batch per Rod. I will use a light coat at first to press air out of wraps then recoat 2 more times when dry.

Several things I see here
First do one rod at a time Mix another cup for another rod Don't be cheap
A faster RPM will help get the thread covered faster And No it will not fly all over 50 - 80 RPMs I like
If you are not using CP on regular nylon then I guess you think it leaves the guide weak -- It Does Not It helps to keep color and fills the thread where there is NO air to cause bubbles I will either use CP on even NCP thread and matallics --- or very thin finish to get rid of air
If you like the Transparent look -- Highly Recamented to go to a light finish Stays wet longer - fills the thread so no air A good thing ! Less bubbles
If you place is hot 80 - 90 cool it off The finish will stay wet longer and release bubbles should they come up Drys with a Chemicul reaction There is nothing to Evaporate in it Very hot not required Heat does help - but not when applying it -- After it is on and levelIf possible no heat If the finish looks like it will become a FootBall Stop the turner then with your brush take any drips off Do a 180 several times then ( if you can ) start the dryer slow Mine turns at 55 rpm Everone is different
When I heat I use a hair dryer -- Start OFF THE ROD - let any dust come out of the dryer - then aim at the rod

There is also a way to take bubbles out of clear with a straw You blow thought it ( don't spit on the clear ) and you hot breath soffens it and helps it to flow -- Hay it works Got it from this site !!!

You are going to have to play and find the way that works for you with what you have

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/04/2015 06:07PM by bill boettcher.

What Bill said. I use the straw method and it works great for releasing bubbles. When I began building, and I'm by no means a a professional, I made the usual mistakes. Don't try to use your finish too long. If it isn't running freely, mix another batch. Another thing I learned is that if you're using an alcohol lamp or whatever, make sure you don't cook the finish.

I will use cp from time to time and I really don't think it makes the guide wrap weak. I think if I combine all these practices I should greatly eliminate the bubbles. I am cheap! Sorry this stuff is expensive. However I see that I am costing myself more in the long run.

Ha! I just watched a bunch of videos on the web of how people coat their rods. Yes indeed they are- 1) mixing less finish 2) applying it to Rod much faster than I do 3) dont use as much heat. I will recap for both my benefit and someone else with a similar problem.It seems that the viscosity of the epoxy has much to do about the ability to release trapped air. So the thinner it is the easier it is for it to release air bubbles. Heat will thin the epoxy but with varying results the more it is heated- boiling or burning finish off if too much is applyed. The reason I was overheating was to try to thin already curing finish and catastrophe was result. There I feel better
Btw I noticed my color preserved rods do look better with less bubbles