I am just getting into this rod building thing. I am wondering how I can go about trying to mimic those rods that have cork within the handle of the reel seat. I find this really comfortable. The most comfortable rod that I own is a G.Loomis GLX that has what Loomis calls a "reverse" reel seat.

I am wondering if I can just use a split reel seat like a Fuji Sk2 and then incorporate a fore grip both in front and behind the hood? Am I crazy?

Go for it. You will enjoy it.

I personally only use hidden hood reel seats for spinning reels for the same reason that you mention. i.e. comfort


I use a size 16 skeletal seat and bury the front reel seat hold down in a cork ring.

Then, three rings behind that to form the reel seat, and finally the back reel threaded hold down.

Be safe

Roger - do you have any pictures of this process? Or the station and finished product?

Yes, I would like to see a picture of your final product too, that would be neat to see.

Who makes a good hidden hood reel seat?

Sounds like the Super Sticker spinning reel seat put on backwards, threads down, with a short cork fore grip special made by Loomis, but real easy to make. Reel seat has been used by Loomis, North Fork Composites(Edge rods) and others for around 30 years.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 08/31/2015 09:45PM by Spencer Phipps.

Nate, Brett

Here is a picture that lists - in order from top to the bottom.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

American Tackle Aero seat - with graphite grip.

American Tackle Aero seat using conventional fore nut and conventional fore grip

American Tackle Aero seat using a K style fore nut that has been turned down for a smooth surface and a gold trim and just a short cork ring in front of the reel seat

Hidden Hood Reel seat using a Fuji or Pac Bay Skeletal reel seat. The back grip is a conventional cork grip. Then, the threaded reel hold down. Then, three cork rings that have been flattened on one side to act as a base for the reel and finally the front skeletal reel seat that is glued to the inside of 2 cork rings. Then additional cork rings to create the fore grip.

A different hidden hood reel seat showing the flattened cork that forms the reel seat:
[www.rodbuilding.org]



When I first started making the hidden hood reel seats, I would glue up the cork, threaded reel hold down, rings that formed reel seat base and the front portion of the reel hold down and fore grip onto the blank and I would do a full length rod lathe turn down.

But now, I build the grip in several pieces.
a. I start by gluing an arbor into the rear threaded portion of the reel seat and the front skeletal reel seat and reaming those pieces to match the diameter of the blank where they will be installed.
b. I glue up the cork rings for the rear grip after reaming the cork rings to match the blank where the rear grip will be installed. Then, I turn down and shape the rear grip for the diameter and shape desired.
c. I glue up the three cork rings that will be used for the reel seat base, ream them to the size matching the blank and then flatten them on one side to match the reel seat, but leaving it a bit longer than the final size.
d. I place the front skeletal reel seat on the piece of cork ring that will hold the front ring and scribe the shape of the back side of the ring on one side of the cork, and scribe the circle on the other side of the cork that will match the front side of the skeletal reel seat. Then, I use a rotary reamer to shape the inside of the cork ring to match the shape that I scribed on the cork. I take the ring that will be in front of the first front reel seat piece of cork and scribe the circle that is the diameter of the front reel seat hold down, since one ring is too narrow to contain all of the front reel seat hold down. Then, I use a flat topped rotary reamer to scribe the flat bottom hole in the ring to accommodate the rest of the front reel seat hold down item. Finally, I will add on the additional rings that are needed to form the fore grip after reaming those rings to the size of the blank. I use titebond III for the cork gluing and use 5 minute epoxy for the reel seat and arbor gluing as well as the gluing of the reel seat to the blank.
e. Before gluing the front skeletal reel seat section into place in the cork rings, I take a piece of masking tape and tape up the slot for the front reel seat hold down. This is to prevent epoxy from getting into the slot and plugging up the slot for the ring. Then, the three piece section of reel seat rings is glued to the front reel seat ring and fore grip section of rings.
f. Finally, the rear grip, and the front section with the reel seat cork and front hold down and fore grip are taken to the wood lathe and turned down in two operations. First the rear grip, and then the front reel seat and fore grip.
When the front section it turned down, the flattened portion of reel seat is sanded to final height by using a file and sand paper to insure that the reel will be a perfect fit into the reel seat hold down and onto the flattened 3 pieces of cork rings.
g. Finally, the three pieces of rear grip, threaded rear hold down and front reel seat, front hold down and fore grip are glued to the rod using 5 minute epoxy - making sure to align the rear threaded portion of reel seat and the front portion of reel seat, and fore grip.

As you can tell from the write up, making a hidden hood grip and reel seat is a significant amount of work. But customers are willing to pay the extra money that is charged for the making of this very comfortable grip.

Here is a very comfortable and easy to make setup. Uplocking seat, size 17, with the foam ramps going off both ends of the seat. the front one is just under the diameter of the reel seat hood and the hand is naturally placed in that area. With the diameters so close it is really comfortable and sensitive. In my opinion this is more comfortable and sensitive than having a foregrip of cork of a diameter larger than the front hood. If you're interested in the process, let me know.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Here is another version, longer front ramp but still almost the same diameter as the front hood. This is a size 18 seat. You want the ramp just under the diameter of the hood so finishing against the hood (as a wall) is easier than if the ramp is larger than the hood. Then the problem is that it's hard to get finish into the joint without getting it all over the hood edge. After a few coats of epoxy the diameters of the hood and ramp will be almost the same.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

This here is exactly what I am looking to do.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Custom is a great way to go, but another option, pre-made DPS reel seat with cork center, priced right too!
[www.mudhole.com]

Regards.
Team Mud Hole Custom Tackle
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Brett, a generous member of this forum sent me instructions on how to do what you want, and if you want, I'll send them to you. Not rocket science, the biggest issue is getting the dimensions right for the reel you'll be using. You want the cork insert short enough so the reel stem will tighten properly, and you don't get a noticeable gap. Too long, the reel won't be tightly captured, too short, a big gap. I did one and it is a very nice, comfortable, setup.

I understand your wanting to do it yourself so you can use customized cork patterns. Or wood. Or whatever you want. My email is not hidden.