I havent even spun my first pole yet, but have been watching videos and getting info on wrappers. I have a Lamiglass salmon pole that the real seat has come loose and just spins on the blank. What would be the best way to go about repairing this pole? It is out of warrenty so it is either throw it awary or try to repair it.
A little about myself, I retired about a year ago from the electrical trade and though I have several projects around the house, building fishing rods might be something I could get into. Not looking to make a bunch of money, just building quality poles for family and friends.
Thanks for your suggestions
Bill
Canby, OR

William

Here is a wild idea. Slide a piece of PVC over the handle until it reaches the rear of the reel seat and just extends past the rear grip. Duct tape the PVC to the reel seat to form a seal. Attach a vacuum hose to the other end. Mix some thin slow curing epoxy, turn on the vacuum and hope there is suction at the free end of the reel seat if so paint epoxy to the end of the reel seat allowing the epoxy to be sucked in, twist the handle back and forth slightly to spread the epoxy. When satisfied there is enough epoxy in the reel seat remove the vacuum, align the seat to the guides and clean the ends, you should be good to go. The process may take some time but if patient enough epoxy should seep in to secure the reel seat.

John

William, you have what could be called an oppertunity. I'll assume you have had that rod for awhile and could judge an improvment in it.

You could re-glue the reel seat. Or you could remove all the guides, reel seat, and grips. Then rebuild the rod. If you do the later you will gain some experience and might convince yourself you "can" build a better rod (than a factory one). Most lamiglas blanks are worth the effort. Search on "all dates" and you find lots of tips on how to remove guides/seat/grips. In your cases I probably wouldn't be looking to save any of them but it never hurts (if only to have parts to repair other rods). Also read about guide placement and static testing. You might be surprised just how much better that rod fishes afterwards.

Oh, and please don't call them "poles":)

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

Bill,
I live in Milwaukie, maybe we can figure out the best way to get you going again. Sounds like you may have a Lamiglas X-11, they had quite a few reel seat problems reported.

I have a 9' lamiglas classic glass, 15 to 30 lb. line. It looks like the whole rod is epoxy coated so I'm not sure if it would be worth stripping the guides off. I bought an X11 to replace it and was told by the salesman that I would'nt have that same problem. If this new rod reel seat comes loose it will be the last Lamiglas that I buy. Guess I need to start making my own.

Bill

If you do decide to rebuild the rod once you get the foregrip and guides off the seat should just slide off the rod and be saved
The butt grip depending on the rod ( copy any info and numbers on the blank ) record them so you can put back on later butt grip can maybe be shortend if needed Then clean off the blank and start over

Or you can figure buy putting on a reel where you can drill a hole in the seat The holding screw can cover the hole Carefully drill about a 1/4" hole in the seat DON"T GO INTO THE BLANK and use a more liquid adhessive to poor into the hole as you turn the seat to spread it out Then tape the seat and let dry Should be good to go

Bill - willierods.com

I agree with Russel, if you went with a winn grip, you could remove the old grip and reel seat and strip the guides off, and have a project rod to build that would not break the bank. If something gets out of wack, you can cut it off and start again. No harm, no foul.. some new guides and a little spit and polish, and the old rod would be back in action, and you would have a great start on building.

cut the handle fittings off, then remove reel seat and rebuild from the butt end. Much simpler, quicker and cheaper than going from the other end!

you will need to ensure your handle fitting (be it cork or eva) has a parallel bore large enough to just slide on from the butt end, and run arbors as you go up the blank to ensure a nice tightish fit.