So from what I understand, modulus is simply a way of looking at a materials resistance to elastic deformation - resistance to bending or flexing. To simplify things, can we say that higher modulus materials have a higher stiffness to weight ratio?

In looking at it this way, I'd say cork is a fairly high modulus handle material compared to EVA, and Flex Coat type reel seat arbors are probably higher modulus than cork?


Too much coffee for me this AM?

Thanks - Marc

Keep it simple - that's all I can handle!

Fro their purpose and use within the confines of how we use them on fishing rods, it might be better to look at them from a standpoint of durometer hardness to weight ratio. With handle materials it is the rigidity rather than a resistance to flexing that would be the primary concern. However, it does come back to stiffness to weight ratio in some regard.

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Mark,

I would say that's a pretty fair assessment when thinking in terms of modulus of elasticity.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think you are trying to get a feel for what modulus of elasticity in grip materials means for rod sensitivity. The argument that I tend to make is that weight is going to be the largest factor. If you can reduce the mass of the grip, either by removing unnecessary material or by changing the grip material, that is a good thing. A secondary concern is the mechanical properties of the grip. The closer you can get them to the graphite blank, the better, but I wouldn't build up a grip by wrapping the blank with sleeving material and resin to build it out, as that would be much too heavy to make up for the weight added.

Perhaps the epitome of a sensitive handle would be a blank that swelled out at the butt into a thin wall tube that a spinning reel or plate seat could be wrapped onto. This would likely require filament winding techniques as shown in the NASA video a number of posts below, as the stresses where the blank flares are likely to be substantial, and the material would need to be carefully controlled in this area of the blank.

Joe, the description in your last paragraph is pretty much what the old Shimano Speed Master Fightin Rods had for reel seats. The butt of the blank was over sized in diameter, and depending on the model, either part of the blank was cut out and a plate type reel seat was recessed into the blank, (that's how the pistol grip casting rods were made) or, they had what amounted to a split reel seat, with a hood epoxied directly to the blank, and then the threads for the up locking reel seat were cut into the blank and the rear portion of the seat held the back of the reel. They used that latter set up on their spinning, and two handed casting rods.

I just measured the O.D. of the blank in the center of the reel seat on a 1654, and the diameter is .911" EVA rear grip, and a comparatively long (4") very thin EVA fore grip. Still a very good rod, and one of the ones that I refinished and put new guides on, that got me into starting to build my own rods. It's very light, even by today's standards.

Just some history for those that may have a few old Shimano rods laying around and are wondering what the numbers on the rod mean. The first number in the series delineated whether it was a casting, or a spinning rod. 1 if it was a casting rod, and 2 if it was a spinning rod. The second and third numbers were the rods length. In the case of a 1654, it meant the rod was 6 1/2' long. The last number was the power rating of the rod. Powers went from 1 - 5.

I believe the Speed Master series was Shimano's only 100% graphite rod at that time.They were truly great rods for their time. I also still have a 1554 (5 1/2' pistol grip) that I refinished and put new guides on that is an awesome in close spinnerbait rod. The reel seat is flexing in it a bit right now, and when it pops out I hope I can just re-epoxy it into the blank. If not, it will be a truly sad day.

Man if I had a dollar for every pound of bass I've caught with those two rods .............



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/20/2015 12:29PM by David Baylor.

If you are fishing with either nylon or fluorocarbon monofilament their elasticity is great enough to trivialize anything but huge differences in the modulus of your blank or grip when "sensing" a strike. The slightest increase in slack between rod tip and hook decreases sensitivity [feel] exponentially. I would look to eyesight and technique to increase sensitivity. Dead drifting nymphs to trout in moving water would be good practice.

Several years back Emory Harry wrote articles for RODMAKER - unfortunately I have never cataloged the issues & so can't help you with the issue(s) volumes.

Hello All.

Ken, the Volume/Issues are 6/6 & 7/1, the authors are Emory Harry and Jack Hurt, the name of the articles are "Rod Blanks Characteristics, Properties and Terms", part 1 was in the 6/6 and part two was in the 7/1.

Hope that helps.

Tight Wraps & Tighter Lines.

Bob,

New Bern, NC.