I usually watch the forum versus participate, but had a question I wanted to run by a group of avid rod builders.

I have built well over 100 rods using my simple hand wrapping set up that came as part of a kit from Cabelas years ago. However, I am finally interested in purchasing a power wrapper and giving it a try. No doubt it will help pack threads more tightly and speed up some wraps, but I am very concerned about the spool tensioning setups found on the power wrappers. Needless to say I have gotten very use to my current set up and especially the way the spool tensioning set up works. I am able to easily swap between colors and easily swap my lead thread for decorative wraps. My list of questions follows!

Will most typical power wrap tensioning set ups allow me to easily swap lead threads or work with more than two threads at a time? Also, are the foot controls fine enough to allow movement for fine work like adding a single decorative wrap, or working on a olive branch stripe without overruns? Can you bypass the foot controls and still be able to turn a rod by hand in a power set up? And lastly, how big of a pain is it to repeatedly chuck and un chuck a rod to repeatedly check for things like guide alignment?

Sorry for the list of questions. I know power wrappers are very popular and used by many builders much better than myself, but want to make sure I wont personally be disappointed with the investment. Thanks in advance for any answers/advice you can offer. Thanks! - Craig

You can turn the rod by hand and will probably have to for narrow trims and bands. Power wrapping is really more for longer wraps and underwraps where there is a huge time savings. You can look at the thread tension units on the different machines and tell how many spools they will hold. Switching from one thread to another is as easy as just picking up a new thread. Expect some slight learning curve as you get used to the new machine and tensioner as you are already used to what you have and the new machine will be different in some way.

Craig,
I have built all of my own power wrappers and currently use one that I made that uses a DC gear motor on the power head. With the control box and foot pedal that is used for this system, it is easy to consistently turn the wrapper at one or two rpm for single or even part turn work. I use a simple tension system that works well for my needs with very quick thread changes.

With the use of a DC system, reverse is easy to use because it only required the flip of a switch. Since it is easy to turn partial turns with perfect control, I never use my hands to wrap anything. Power is used for all wrapping.

Although making the chuck tight or loose is virtually instant, I normally put the rod on the wrapper and never take it off the wrapper until the wrapping is complete.

Then, I take the rod off of the wrapper to do final guide alignment.

Then, I put the rod back onto the wrapper, flip the direction switch - since I like to apply finish running the rod in the direction opposite from my wrapping direction and apply the finish.

After I finish the finish application, and do a final inspection after a few minutes drying, I slow the wrapper to my desired long term drying speed and let it turn for several hours or until I am sure that the finish will not run. Then, I turn off the wrapper. and either leave it there for 24 hours of drying, or put it onto a rod rack for final finish setting.

If I am doing a batch of rods, after doing the finish application, and then letting the rod dry for 10-15 minutes to be sure that the finish is perfect; I will transfer the rod to my drum dryer for final over night drying at its desired drying speed.

Some of the commercial machines have some limitations, and is the reason why I built my own.

Good luck in your search. Power wrapping, if it is the correct wrapper can really ease your job as well as minimizing any wrist or hand strain from hand wrapping.

Be safe

In addition to the comments already posted. A decent power wrapper will also allow you to turn cork, EVA and softer hardwoods either on the rod or on a mandrel. It's a "force multiplier"

I have a question about the direction. Why do you change directions to apply the finish, it seems to me that would disturb the thread? I am new at this so that is the reason for the question, not questioning your knowledge.

Phil,

In some cases the rod spins towards you when wrapping the guides. This is the case on my Renzetti lathe. Obviously you could see the issue here if you stick a brush into your wraps with it spinning towards you. From what I understand AC/DC motors don't do well in reverse, and ac motors even less so. This is why Roger uses the DC motor. It runs in both directions so he can turn the rod at higher rpm's to apply his finish. This is the way I do it as well. I don't have a dc motor yet for my set up, but I just put the motor I have on the other end of my lathe. It's kind of a hassle and that's why I'll get a DC motor at some point. I hope this makes sense. Thanks!

If you hold the brush above the rod, it won't matter which way the rod turns.

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Thanks guys. I think most of my questions have been answered. The only thing that currently troubles me is how well I can manipulate threads with the provided tensioning devices on a power wrapper. Guess I will check out pictures and pick the best that I think will suit me. If it doesn't work the way I want, I am sure some quick modifications can be done. Thanks!

Yes Tom. I'm not that good.

You manipulate the threads with your fingers - the tensioning device is just that, nothing more. It slides along the track but you have to move it along and the intricate stuff is still done with your fingers.

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I've "tuned" my AmTak & PacBay wrappers so that they glide smoothly along the tracks for under wraps. It's "tinkering 101" - Resetting the wheels that run along the track; keeping the track clean and smooth; setting the tension on the thread to pull the carriage along. However as Tom has noted for wrapping over guide feet you'll have to move it along with your fingers. As for decorative wraps - finger guidance still works best

The reason that I reverse the rod direction when applying finish is for none of the reasons mentioned above.

1. I wrap with the top of the rod turning toward me, because my thread is located on the back of the rod, and as the rod turns toward me, I can see the flowing thread flowing over the top and down the front of the rod, as the rod is turning.

2. However, I apply finish with the top of the rod turning away from me, because I apply finish on the top of the turning rod. Now, with the top of the rod turning away from me, any bend in the brush, if it happens to touch the rod will be away from me. Any finish being applied is also flowing away from me, so that as the newly finished rod comes up from the bottom in front of me, the brush does not block my view of the newly finished rod.

And as much as anything, it is just comfortable for me to apply finish this way and I am uncomfortable if the blank is turning in the opposite direction.

But, as with everything else - it is entirely up to you how you turn a blank as you build and wrap and apply finish. Just turn the blank in which ever direction suits you for the task that you are doing at the time.

Be safe