Ok just finished my Rainshadow RCLB70ML with a slow spiral and going to fish it Thursday off San Diego. So this is not exactly a rod building question but a fishing style question that I would like to use Thursday.

I recently read that some people run braid direct to flouro but instead of a 5 foot leader they run 20 yards. Does anyone here do this with success?

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Jay

If you use hollow core braid you can insert the leader into the braid. This is called a top-shot. You can also make a knotless loop at the end of the braid, and join a top-shot leader loop-to-loop. Tackle shops in San Diego can help you.

I use the FG knot, and normally run a longer leader (about 6 feet), but not as long as you are talking. You can youtube the FG knot for instructions - it's not that hard to tie, just takes some getting use to. Good luck, and tight lines.

Bimini in the braid. Uni to uni to connect braid to flouro. Make flouro whatever length is desired.

If you are using it on bottom fish, cod, hali etc. where there is a chance that you may snag a piece of the earth, then use a short piece of flouro, of lower strength then your mainline, five feet is more then enough.
If you are trolling with it on a downrigger, have at least twenty feet or whatever your setback is. Many of the release clips do not hold well on braid and will release prematurely.

"I recently read that some people run braid direct to flouro but instead of a 5 foot leader they run 20 yards. Does anyone here do this with success?"

I've used a short fluoro leader (less than the length of the rod) and that works great. I've only used the uni-uni and thinking of trying the alberto or even the FG knot to make it smoother. But the uni-uni works fine if you can put up with feeling it go through the guides.

I've also used braid as backing for a full cast of fluoro (see Aaron Marten's video: [www.youtube.com]) and that works really great and saves on the costs of respooling the fluoro.

But when using some intermediate length of fluoro (less than a full cast and longer than a short leader) I have found that the shock of that line-type transition through the rod guides really feels terrible- as though the rod already finished recovering from the cast before that happened. Not sure if I'm being clear enough, and I have no idea if others have observed the same or not.

Good luck!
Another Jay

I have successfully used a slim beauty knot to join braid to fluoro. The figure-8 jam knot is in the fluoro and the half-Bimini is in the braid.

Why not use a double swivel with a uni-knot for both line and leader?

Jay,

I like to use a long Floro leader with braid, say 10'-20'. That way the line has some velocity by the time the knot is passing through the guides. It also give you some leeway with the leader if you have to retie.

Don Campbell
don@sensorfishingrods.com

I fish the surf and use braid to mono or braid to floro . I use the uniknot. mono to the braid I use a 40# shocker and do abt 5 loops When I tie the braid to the mono I do abt 15 loops of braid to mono Been doing the same knot for 15years never a failure.

Heck, I see a lot of merit in loading the spool with braid and then putting a 100 yards of mono on top. Gives me the shock and abrasion resistance of mono on my "working line" and the added spool capacity that braid brings to the table. 100 yard filler spools of mono are cheap and easy to bring along.

For a long range trip increased feeling/sensitivity of braid and ability to use a little less lead in bottom fishing is way down the list. I want to never lose my braid. I want a to use quick, easy to tie, well known knots (or crimp sleeves). I want to get back in the water fast when the bite is on.

For that blank I'd be thinking 60# JB hollow spliced to 25# pline....on an avet mxl.....or 40# to 20# mono on mxj......or something like that. Learn some good knots and actually test them at home....Bimini twist and versions of albright are where I'd start. Final advice....set that drag at home with a spring scale and don't touch it on the water.....look to tailor drag cam/bellville washers to 1/4 of breaking line strength at strike and 1/2 at full (hardly "west coast" cam but maybe east coast guys aren't totally stupid)....cuz a dude does have a thumb when needed.

Hoping that ain't your only rod:)

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

Splice a hollow core line onto your solid braid main line. Splice a loop onto the hollow core end. Purchase or make your own wind on leaders in the sizes you want. Join the main line and wind on leader with a loop to loop connection. May not be the cheapest option but it is a smooth and strong connection.

Some are missing the point and purpose of relative systems of measurement. Is 50 degrees hot or cold? Is 10 feet long or short? Is 50 pounds heavy or light? There is no answer to these questions because these numbers mean nothing until compared to other numbers taken by the same relative system of measurement. All you know is that 50 degrees is colder than 60 and warmer than 40, etc., etc. That's how objective, relative systems of measurement work. The instant that one weather station takes their reading in the shade, while another takes theirs in the sun, or one lumberyard measures total length of a board while another only measures the portion they think their customers will actually use, is the instant that a firm has concocted their own proprietary system, which is certainly fine, but it also removes their measurements from being useful outside of comparisons among their own product.


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For the majority of my fishing I use 30 lb test braid joined to a 5 to 7 foot fluorocarbon leader with a Crazy Alberto Knot. Conserves the braid, fluoro breaks first, very small knot that goes through even micro guides quite well. Definitely a smaller knot than the uni to uni. Uni to uni works and is a reliable connection between braid and fluoro, but Crazy Alberterto is definitely a smaller knot that gives fewer problems passing through guides.