Where do you think the balance point of an Ultra Light rod with reel be? Is it important enough to add weights to change it? The 7 footer I have just about finished has it's balance point about 30 mm forward of the very front of the drag screw on the reel.
Is that good or should I do something about counterbalancing it?
Thanks
Braith

Braith

You need to answer that question your self, Everyone has a different opinion on were they want there rod to balance at. Hows it feel to you? tape a small sinker to the butt see how it feels. Not trying to be a smart **s But it is kind of a personal thing that's why I build instead of buying fast food rods. Jaa

computer lag



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/30/2015 08:36AM by Jay Dubay.

computer lag



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/30/2015 08:36AM by Jay Dubay.

My preference is to build ergonomically correct for the owner (this deals mostly with the reel to butt distance) and as light as possible, then let the balance be what it is. I don't like adding weight to gain balance. Sounds like you have pretty good balance already. As stated above, it's a personal preference thing, influenced possibly by the type of fishing to be done (tip up/tip down).

If you've built the rod very light to begin with, I doubt that having the balance point forward of the reel seat is going to be detrimental to the rod's use. Considering it's an UL rod anyway, I think I would shy away from adding any additional weight anywhere, even at the butt.

..............

Paul, I'd have to agree with Jay when he says that's a question you have to answer for yourself.

Personally, I don't like a tip heavy rod. It reduces feel, and if the rod is overly tip heavy, it can cause forearm fatigue in a relatively short period of time.

Jay's suggestion of taping some weight to the butt to see how the rod feels in your hand, is a good one. You can play with the amount of weight you add, until it feels good in your hand. Of course you don't want to add so much weight, that the rod feels heavy in your hand. But you shouldn't have to, as it requires less weight to balance a rod, when the weight is added at the very butt of the rod.

I think you'd be doing yourself a favor if you could get the rod to balance somewhere just in front of the end of the reel's foot. The two spinning rods I recently built have down locking reel seats, and both balance right on the nut. And they feel great in my hand.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/30/2015 08:13AM by David Baylor.

What is the purpose of balancing an ultralight rod/reel combination? I do not think fatigue would be a concern.

Phil,
Any time that any rod is out of balance, and that rod is a hand held rod, fatigue may be a concern.

However, if the rod is normally used in a holder, as is the case for a trolling rod, the balance issue tends to be a non issue.

Be safe

Phil,
Any time that any rod is out of balance, and that rod is a hand held rod, fatigue may be a concern.

However, if the rod is normally used in a holder, as is the case for a trolling rod, the balance issue tends to be a non issue.

Be safe

Roger: I ask because the majority of my fishing is done with a 9 wt. fly rod. I have never used or seen a fly rod with a balance point at the angler's hand despite the fact that fly fishing involves a lot of casting. My experience has been that casting fatigue is nearly always the result of the poor casing mechanics of the caster, although this may not be the case with ultralight spinning rods.

With all of the rods I have built, I never once was concerned about a balance point. Too many variables such as lure weight, reel weight, , etc. etc. I have never added weight to any rod grip, never have seen the need for it. JMO If you are worried about fatigue, adding weight, it would seem to me to just add to the fatigue.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/30/2015 05:30PM by Randolph Ruwe.

I would say you did a good job. I built a 6' UL a month back with Recoil guides and my balance point with a micro reel was right at the tip of the spool I think the guides on a UL build make a big difference which is why I used the Recoils. In my limited experience, if you put a couple rings of rubberized cork in the handle it will help balance it out well without adding too much weight.

Just to clarify my earlier post.

I didn't meant to imply that a rod needs to be balanced for every circumstance. If you're throwing crankbaits or swim jigs, or using any other technique where the bait is being kept in constant motion, a balanced rod doesn't mean a whole lot. But IMO, if you're fishing slack line techniques ... drop shot, shaky head jigs, or pretty much any kind of pitching or flipping, a balanced rod, or even an ever so slightly butt heavy rod, fishes much better than a tip heavy rod.

Feel is enhanced, accuracy is enhanced, and the ability to control the rod tip is more precise

As far as possible fatigue resulting from an unbalanced, or a tip heavy rod that I mentioned ... If you're pitching or flipping, and only making a couple hundred presentations a day, the chances of fatigue from using an unbalance rod becoming a factor, are probably negligible at best. But if you're making 1,000 presentations a day, which isn't unrealistic in a tournament setting, it can definitely become a factor.

As far as adding weight to balance a rod that you've built. I've done it with two of the 4 rods I've built thus far. The two I added weight to the butt in order to balance them, were the last two rods I've built. Both identical 6'6" spinning rods that have split rear grips. I have no idea how much weight I added to them, but I know it was less than 1/4 oz.

I should say that all of my builds thus far have been personal builds. I know the reels that are going to be used on the rods, with no plans of ever changing them.

I'm certainly not saying there is a right or wrong in the need for a balanced rod debate. In the end it comes down to personal preference, and doing what you believe makes the best fishing rod.


As far as fly rods go. I don't know how you guys do it. I used to do a lot of steelhead fishing, and when I did, I used a 8'6" noodle rod. That thing would wear my forearm out by the end of the day. It was fun as heck to fish with though.

David,
You may do as most commercial rod manufacturers do, with their jobs Adjust the length of the rear grip to get a reasonable balance to the rod.

I may hear arguments about the fact that some folks want quite short rear grips on rods that may be quite long. If one does this, one is really looking for a balance issue with a rod that will NOT be a lot of fun to use in your hand over a long day of fishing.

Use a reasonable length back grip to offset the weight of the tip, and you will be good to go.

Be safe

I just had a 3 weight fly rod that is 7'6" built as an ultralight spinning rod. No foregrip, a Fuji TVSTK reel seat with cork on the nut, split grip to a cork butt grip, total length 9 1/2 inches. Using a Shimano Vanquish 1000S loaded with 4 pound mono, the rod balances just in front of the reel seat. This is where I like things to be. After some time, you get very good at estimating these things, if you weigh enough things, often enough.

Steve,

Do you have any pics of that build? I've got a 2 piece four wt I've been doing the same thing with. Would love to see your set up.

Steve Hartzell
Lake Conroe - Willis, Texas

Steve,

No pictures but would be happy to discuss the details.

I am going to temporarily add enough weight in front of the grip on a 7 wt. fly rod to balance it and see if it reduces casting fatigue. The current rod-reel combination is very butt heavy. Making a rod heavier defies some advertising and most popular opinion but the proof is in the doing.

I am going to temporarily add enough weight in front of the grip on a 7 wt. fly rod to balance it and see if it reduces casting fatigue. The current rod-reel combination is very butt heavy. Making a rod heavier defies some advertising and most popular opinion but the proof is in the doing.