Whenever I use the dryer portion of my wrapper and engage the wheel on the rod stand it screws my rod out of the chuck. If I don't engage the wheels its OK. Right now I currently use a couple of heavy duty rubber bands to secure the handle to the chuck works but a pain in the%$^@. I sometimes need to engage the wheels on the rod stand for rods not perfectly straight. And I always level and align things. Suggestions on a remedy ? I have a Pac Bay power wrapper.

The plastic Three jaw chuck? There is a locking nut on the back, Put your handle in twist and tighten then tighten the locking nut up, It's black and has wings on it. Tight Lines Jaa

I replaced the chuck that came with it with the aluminum chuck.

Does the motor for the dryer run both forward and backward? If so, make sure it is running in the direction that would tighten the chuck.

The jaws stay tight and I have the motor running in the direction that would tighten the chuck. It seems like as the rubber wheels on the rod stands turn they have a screw like effect and it pulls the rod out of the chuck. If the wheel on the rod stands are up it doesn't happen.

Kerry,
it is the stands not being perpendicular to the chuck. I have this issue sometimes when I move a support and don't pay a lot of attention to how it is sitting when I tighten it back down. change the angle and it will push the rod back into the chuck.

Todd

Regards,
Todd Vivian
Mud Hole Custom Tackle

todd@mudhole.com

Kerry,
One thing that normally works for this situation is to take a thick rubber band like a number 64 and wrap it a few times around the butt of the rod, before you put it into the chuck.

The rubber bands act as a vibration, and torque absorber. The rubber band also makes the rear grip virtually slip proof.

Remember, I am not speaking about putting a rubber band around the chuck, I am speaking about putting a rubber band around the base of the rod butt, before you put it into the chuck..

Also, if you have any taper on the shape of the rod butt, the rubber band removes the taper as far as the chuck is concerned.

Another thing that I have found that helps quite a bit in this area is to put about 2 or 3 layers of masking tape on the face of the chuck jaws. The masking tape acts as a grip enhancer and also absorbs changes in torque and angle that can be present in the rod grip as it turns.

Also, as Todd mentioned, be sure that the rod rests are in line and perpendicular to the chuck. Just to check this from time to time, I keep a straight non tapered piece of fiberglass blank on hand. When ever I change the position of rod rests, I double check to be sure that everything is in perfect alignment by inserting the straight piece of blank into the chuck for an alignment check. I verify that the blank lays centered on the rod rests as the blank is made tight in the chuck and that the chuck getting tight does not change the position of the blank in the correct location on the rod rests.

Another thing that you need to check. From time to time, due to many different variables, the rod grip may not be perfectly straight on the same axis of the blank as it would be if the hole in the grip were perfectly centered and concentric. This can happen by boring the grip hole with a slight offset, or one of many other reasons. i.e. if the grip is made tight into the chuck and then the chuck rotated, the butt of the rod in front of the rear grip exhibits a wobble that may be little or major, depending on the amount of non centering of the grip center bore. The slight offset has 0 effect on the fishing rod while being used, but it may in fact cause issues with the grip staying in the chuck. Again, if this has happened with one of your builds, the simple solution is to use the rubber band around the butt of the grip, before putting it into the chuck to absorb this slight offset.

Be safe

this happens a lot of the time when the rod is not at the same AXIS as the chuck it works its way out different ways to cope with it
tape loose on roe so it will flex [ make real loose], bur a level on your set up an do some measurements before you put the epoxy
on after you do it one time you will find out your problem , you will find out the axis of chuck off some up , down , right, left. of
center this is where you start , in trouble shooting this will help solve your problem , this an the slow speed will cause it
slow speed you want , but need it to be all centered up an level I THINK

William Sidney
AK

Kerry go to a post on power wrapper problem that I started on oct 19 2014 there is a lot of information there.

[rodbuilding.org]

Here's a link to David's topic.

Chris

If you are close to a medical facility go to the laboratory and ask them for some tourniquets. These are 1" wide thin rubber strips. They are great for wrapping around rod sections that you want to grip. I keep some in the kitchen for opening those jar lids that want to slip. I also keep some in my tackle box for those stuck ferrule situations.

Mike Bradfrod
R.M.B. Fishing Rods
Nampa, Idaho